Box Scraper Beginners guide to using a box blade

   / Beginners guide to using a box blade #131  
Thanks for the info guys, and links Jeff; I checked out Brian's prices for a 3 valve set, plus top and side cylinders with hoses/fittings. looks like about 2,000$ for the conversion, but not sure yet if that includes the sticks & linkage to operate the valves. I do have to make a mounting bracket to put the valves somewhere, but shouldn't be a problem if I can find a good spot. So $3500 to 4000$ investment including a new box.
I am guessing the third valve would be for the rippers, (if I don't get a roll-over box). Looks like consensus is for a 65 or 66" box for my L3400. I am a little unsure about the roll over box; I see that it saves me from having to put hydraulic rippers on a std box, but the side plates don't have much surface contact with the ground and I think they would sink into the softer areas between boulders, during "float" grading, leading to a roller coaster surface. I am under the impression that the standard boxes ride on the longer side plates for better control, and have seen some boxes with flat plates attached to the bottom edge. probably to keep them from sinking in or maybe just for wear resistance. When I fill in the low spots and off camber areas between the boulders, I don't want to end up scraping it all away when I go to smooth it out, and I don't think I have the feel for adjusting the 3-point on the fly, in order to get things flat and level. I have been trying to do something like that with the loader bucket, but the results of 3 days work on my 50' by 80' parking area look kinda pitiful. So, I'm thinking that the roll-over Gannon may not be the best choice for smoothing.
My neighbor has an antique Fergusson with no hydraulics at all; just a 3 point. he just drops the box on the ground and pushes it around backwards after rain storms. It catches a corner and gets stuck on a rut or rock now and then.....he just skips those spots and goes somewhere easier; seems to make him happy. The other thing is, I can't seem to twist my body around far enough to see where I am going, (the "age" thing again); if I sit where I can see, the seat safety switch trips & kills the engine, plus it takes some serious contortions to do it and still be able to push the back end of the rocker pedal with my foot (to move in reverse). I don't think it is possible for a normal person to drive in reverse and see where he is going at the same time. I have already ripped out a live 1" hose bib and hit a tree with the brush-hog tail wheel.:rolleyes:
 
   / Beginners guide to using a box blade #132  
Box blades require you to be able to see behind the tractor while traveling in both directions. If you can not make this work a skidsteer might be a better operating platform for you. I would come to grips with this before buying any thing else.
 
   / Beginners guide to using a box blade #133  
what is the correct width for a box blade? do you want to keep it right at the width of your tractor? I am thinking of getting one for a little BX25D Kubota, which is only about 45"s wide. I found a 42" locally, but don't know much about them, so i'm asking here. I just want something to clean up a long driveway, and spread gravel.
 
   / Beginners guide to using a box blade #134  
what is the correct width for a box blade? do you want to keep it right at the width of your tractor? I am thinking of getting one for a little BX25D Kubota, which is only about 45"s wide. I found a 42" locally, but don't know much about them, so i'm asking here. I just want something to clean up a long driveway, and spread gravel.

You might want to move this question to the Kubota board where more BX owners will see it and to keep this thread on topic.
 
   / Beginners guide to using a box blade #135  
Just found this site and read all pages of this topic. I just moved from the city to this 25 acres in the sticks; I am new to tractors and just bought my first one, a Kubota L3400, which I got mainly for brush/fire controll. I am learning to use the brush-hog and front loader, but have found it difficult to do any decent looking grading/smoothing with the loader bucket. I know that a Gannon would work better for that so I came to this thread to get educated, before I buy the wrong thing. After reading up here, I have a better idea what size I need...looks like a 5 to 6 footer; leaning toward the 5 since my property and roads are very hard and rocky with the sub surface rocks running from fist-size to car or even house-size. The larger ones kind of determine the grade, so I am stuck with surfaces that undulate left/right as well as up/down. Maybe I could build up the bad areas with fill dirt, but that's going to take a LOT of dirt. I am old and my remaining years are no doubt short, so should probably stick to filling in the water erosion channels so that a 2WD vehicle can manage.
My tractor doesn't have a hydraulic top link; just a manual turnbuckle. It doesn't have hydraulics for operating Gannon scarrifier/rippers either; is it worth adding the hydraulics, or is it even feasible?

My l3200 (basically the same as yours) pulls my 72" king kutter box well enough. A 65" heavier box might be better, but the KK was cheap & works well. Now that my R4s are loaded I'm mostly running into power limits than traction limits.

I love my TnT setup, but you can definitely get by without it until you save up.
 
   / Beginners guide to using a box blade #136  
Box blades require you to be able to see behind the tractor while traveling in both directions. If you can not make this work a skidsteer might be a better operating platform for you. I would come to grips with this before buying any thing else.

I've heard of Skid steer, but not sure what they are; assuming they have tracks instead of wheels so you have to lock up one side to steer it. don't know how that would help seeing behind. Anyway, buying another tractor is not feasible for me. I went way over budget on the Kubota; almost two years worth of social security checks to cover it. Maybe I can rig a hand lever up to the HSD rocker pedal, so I can sit side-saddle and see behind the tractor when I am going backwards. Anybody ever heard of this?
 
   / Beginners guide to using a box blade #137  
Box blades require you to be able to see behind the tractor while traveling in both directions. If you can not make this work a skidsteer might be a better operating platform for you. I would come to grips with this before buying any thing else.

I've heard of Skid steer, but not sure what they are; assuming they have tracks instead of wheels so you have to lock up one side to steer it. don't know how that would help seeing behind. Anyway, buying another tractor is not feasible for me. I went way over budget on the Kubota; almost two years worth of social security checks to cover it. Maybe I can rig a hand lever up to the HSD rocker pedal, so I can sit side-saddle and see behind the tractor when I am going backwards. Anybody ever heard of this?
 
   / Beginners guide to using a box blade #138  
I've heard of Skid steer, but not sure what they are; assuming they have tracks instead of wheels so you have to lock up one side to steer it.

Skid steers have the engine in the rear; they are fundamentally designed to PUSH.

Tractors have the engine in front, they are fundamentally designed to PULL.

Skid Steers are less versatile than tractors; you made the right selection in your Kubota.
 
   / Beginners guide to using a box blade #139  
Hopefully some of the Kubota owners can help with the ergonomic advice on your tractor. I have read where some of them can use their left foot to operate the treadle pedal when turned around in the seat, you might try this out. My brother had his right leg amputated below the knee early last year and physical problems can be a game changer. He hasn't been able to drive yet and I don't think he is ready for that anyway. Growing older isn't fun. Not knowing much about your physical condition I will say that mirrors, back uo cameras and other fixes can help but at any rate you need to be able to see what is happening all around your tractor.

The point about skidsteers is that you face the attachments in operation and can use mirrors to backup.
 
   / Beginners guide to using a box blade #140  
Skid steers have the engine in the rear; they are fundamentally designed to PUSH.

Tractors have the engine in front, they are fundamentally designed to PULL.

Skid Steers are less versatile than tractors; you made the right selection in your Kubota.

Jeff,
Since you are sure he made the right selection in buying a tractor maybe you can suggest what he can do to address his problem. I am not a fan of skid steers myself and prefer the tractor as a platform. But it does depend on an individuals handicaps what might be more appropriate as a platform.
 
 

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