steve a
New member
Thanks for the info guys, and links Jeff; I checked out Brian's prices for a 3 valve set, plus top and side cylinders with hoses/fittings. looks like about 2,000$ for the conversion, but not sure yet if that includes the sticks & linkage to operate the valves. I do have to make a mounting bracket to put the valves somewhere, but shouldn't be a problem if I can find a good spot. So $3500 to 4000$ investment including a new box.
I am guessing the third valve would be for the rippers, (if I don't get a roll-over box). Looks like consensus is for a 65 or 66" box for my L3400. I am a little unsure about the roll over box; I see that it saves me from having to put hydraulic rippers on a std box, but the side plates don't have much surface contact with the ground and I think they would sink into the softer areas between boulders, during "float" grading, leading to a roller coaster surface. I am under the impression that the standard boxes ride on the longer side plates for better control, and have seen some boxes with flat plates attached to the bottom edge. probably to keep them from sinking in or maybe just for wear resistance. When I fill in the low spots and off camber areas between the boulders, I don't want to end up scraping it all away when I go to smooth it out, and I don't think I have the feel for adjusting the 3-point on the fly, in order to get things flat and level. I have been trying to do something like that with the loader bucket, but the results of 3 days work on my 50' by 80' parking area look kinda pitiful. So, I'm thinking that the roll-over Gannon may not be the best choice for smoothing.
My neighbor has an antique Fergusson with no hydraulics at all; just a 3 point. he just drops the box on the ground and pushes it around backwards after rain storms. It catches a corner and gets stuck on a rut or rock now and then.....he just skips those spots and goes somewhere easier; seems to make him happy. The other thing is, I can't seem to twist my body around far enough to see where I am going, (the "age" thing again); if I sit where I can see, the seat safety switch trips & kills the engine, plus it takes some serious contortions to do it and still be able to push the back end of the rocker pedal with my foot (to move in reverse). I don't think it is possible for a normal person to drive in reverse and see where he is going at the same time. I have already ripped out a live 1" hose bib and hit a tree with the brush-hog tail wheel.
I am guessing the third valve would be for the rippers, (if I don't get a roll-over box). Looks like consensus is for a 65 or 66" box for my L3400. I am a little unsure about the roll over box; I see that it saves me from having to put hydraulic rippers on a std box, but the side plates don't have much surface contact with the ground and I think they would sink into the softer areas between boulders, during "float" grading, leading to a roller coaster surface. I am under the impression that the standard boxes ride on the longer side plates for better control, and have seen some boxes with flat plates attached to the bottom edge. probably to keep them from sinking in or maybe just for wear resistance. When I fill in the low spots and off camber areas between the boulders, I don't want to end up scraping it all away when I go to smooth it out, and I don't think I have the feel for adjusting the 3-point on the fly, in order to get things flat and level. I have been trying to do something like that with the loader bucket, but the results of 3 days work on my 50' by 80' parking area look kinda pitiful. So, I'm thinking that the roll-over Gannon may not be the best choice for smoothing.
My neighbor has an antique Fergusson with no hydraulics at all; just a 3 point. he just drops the box on the ground and pushes it around backwards after rain storms. It catches a corner and gets stuck on a rut or rock now and then.....he just skips those spots and goes somewhere easier; seems to make him happy. The other thing is, I can't seem to twist my body around far enough to see where I am going, (the "age" thing again); if I sit where I can see, the seat safety switch trips & kills the engine, plus it takes some serious contortions to do it and still be able to push the back end of the rocker pedal with my foot (to move in reverse). I don't think it is possible for a normal person to drive in reverse and see where he is going at the same time. I have already ripped out a live 1" hose bib and hit a tree with the brush-hog tail wheel.