phcaan
Bronze Member
Why the terse reply? Apparently someone was interested, as I am, and they may value others opinions on the subject. I have found it very informative and interesting, and value the opinions I have seen expressed here.
Best Oil For A Kawasaki Engine
- Thread starter djdicetn
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Why the terse reply? Apparently someone was interested, as I am, and they may value others opinions on the subject. I have found it very informative and interesting, and value the opinions I have seen expressed here.
phcaan
Bronze Member
I also have had problems with oil consumption with Pennzoil, haven't used it in years.
Gary Fowler
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My Ferris dealer's mechanic suggested that I use full synthetic oil in the first oil change (8 hours) on my Kawasaki engine. I selected Mobil 1 full synthetic for use. The manual did say that using multi-weight oil may cause consumption but I haven't seen it yet. My first experience with synthetic oil was in my 4cycle boat engine, it got 500 RPM more with synthetic oil than with dino oil.
For the more or less 1 quart capacity of the Kawasaki engine, it isn't going to break the bank to use even the most expensive oil in it. I don't doubt that a good quality of Dino oil would be sufficient for long engine life, but for the difference in cost, why not use oil that is reported to have better long life qualities and higher heat resistance to break down. Even if it is not any better, it costs very little extra in a yearly oil change to use what the oil experts say is a better oil.
For the more or less 1 quart capacity of the Kawasaki engine, it isn't going to break the bank to use even the most expensive oil in it. I don't doubt that a good quality of Dino oil would be sufficient for long engine life, but for the difference in cost, why not use oil that is reported to have better long life qualities and higher heat resistance to break down. Even if it is not any better, it costs very little extra in a yearly oil change to use what the oil experts say is a better oil.
Thomabear
Silver Member
:duh: And all this time I thought engine speed was controlled by a governor.
On topic though my Ferris dealer recommended just the opposite to breaking in the Kawasaki engine with synthetic. He said to be sure to run conventional oil (which is factory fill) for the first 8 hours. Hint! Hint! I told him there was no need to worry as I will run conventional 30wt at every change going forward. Just goes to prove that many decisions to run synthetic or not is based mostly off of regurgitated internet gibberish. Me, I prefer to stay in the proper weight grade for the anticipated temperature. Conventional 30wt with regular changes meet that objective. According to my manual synthetics cover cooler temperature startup but straight 30wt protects better at higher temperatures which is when I tend to cut grass.
TomSeller
Super Member
Only in big government liberal states.
sd455dan
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joking right? - boat engines( inboards or outboards) aren't like most tractor/lawn mower engines... none of the boats I have owned or worked on had any type of governor.
If a prop were to come out of the water may find out just exactly how many RPMs they will turn...
The fact that the same engine was able to gain 500 rpm on the top end under load- points to reduced friction- more power by running the synthetic.
My suggestion would be to use Amsoil full synthetic. The one that is highly recommended is their 4 stroke "Small Engine 10W - 30 . I have used this oil in all equipment I own for about 10 plus years now and with terrific results. Youe engines will run much cleaner and above all much cooler under high stress. Have a look at the Amsoil site and do a bit of research on this oil and I'm sure it will catch your interest. Hope this helps.
burzynsr
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Well here is how I selected the oil for my new Bad Boy zero turn with a Kawasaki engine. Checked the owners manual, selected the viscosity (10W-30), went to Wally World and picked Valvoline 10W-30 conventional (because that's what was on sale), then got the filter number and went to Car Quest and purchased Car Quest brand filters (half the price of Kawasaki filter). All of this meets the manufacturers warranty specs. I change the oil at the recommended interval according to the manual. If you think synthetic is the way to go then use it. Most engines around the world will never see the quality of oil, lubricants and fluids we have here in the states. In my opinion and only my opinion, this subject gets way to much thought input on something this basic. Any engine will out last the equipment even if you use Wal-Mart oil and filters. Personally after 10 or more years with a mower I am kind of ready for something new and that does not mean I am flush with cash. If you get say 1200 hours out of a engine on a personal use lawn mower, you have got your moneys worth. If 1200 hours is not enough you should have purchased a liquid cooled machine. Remember all we are doing is borrowing all this stuff while we are still here on this earth.