Best way to float SSQA plow?

[pcustoms]

Converting a 7.5' plow to SSQA and stuck on best way to float it.

Original thought was ridgid mount and use the float on the loader.

Or should I make float with a chain or telescope too link?

 

[DK35vince]

Converting a 7.5' plow to SSQA and stuck on best way to float it.

Original thought was ridgid mount and use the float on the loader.

Float on the loader doesn't work well for plowing from my experience. (puts to much weight on the plow and can't steer)

 

[the old grind]

Pretty sure you don''t want to hear a usual 'do something else' post, but: I'm not able to neatly plow my 550' gravel driveway, so I add my three Edge Tamers to any FEL bucket in the fall. This method (3 & 2 6-8" from corners) follows the crown and doesn't demand that I re-crown in the Spring. It leaves a hard pack when the ground is frozen solid and gouges the least when we get a good dump on thawed ground. No snow curbs from just pushing it aside, which can build up too high to be pushed aside any further.

I have a ~50' x 50' area for work in front of the barn that I don't maintain greenery on but it fills in there anyway. In the Winter I can clear it to that grass showing thru' without digging up sod and in a matter of minutes. The things I best like about ETs is that the bucket can float despite the weight of the loader arms, that leveling it is far easier for each pass, and that by using the bucket I can dump snow where Spring melt will run off where I want it to and not back onto the d-way. Just not futzing with a poor bucket level indicator saves me a lot of time and gives a better finish.

I'd also use edge tamers to plow over pavement before I'd use a blade with u/s gauge buttons on anything. I just need to drive on a solid surface and hope our frequent Winter thaws don't soften my hard pack. I hope this is more helpful than annoying. jon

 

[ovrszd]

I converted an old Meyer snow plow to SSQA. I did it wrong. I built a rigid vertical pin for the plow to angle on. Used the two cylinders that were on the plow. This requires "float" on the FEL to be used. Too much weight. Requires large shoes. Still when plowing on unfrozen ground the shoes will track the driveway.

In a do over, I'd retain the Meyer system and let the plow hinge and carry it with a chain.

Live and learn.....

 

[ovrszd]

I also added 3pt tabs so I could use it on my Ford. Ford has two circuits so am able to also use Hyd Top Link. Here's some pics that show the basic design. I might have overkilled the build a bit.....

 

[LouNY]

Float on the loader doesn't work well for plowing from my experience. (puts to much weight on the plow and can't steer)

I'll definitely second this, the loader float will put way to much weight on the blade.
There are several threads on here about doing this,
the best ones tucked the mount under the loader ssqa to shorten the whole assembly and let the plow float on it's own.

 

[pcustoms]

I converted an old Meyer snow plow to SSQA. I did it wrong. I built a rigid vertical pin for the plow to angle on. Used the two cylinders that were on the plow. This requires "float" on the FEL to be used. Too much weight. Requires large shoes. Still when plowing on unfrozen ground the shoes will track the driveway.

In a do over, I'd retain the Meyer system and let the plow hinge and carry it with a chain.

Live and learn.....

Pretty sure I copied your pictures this morning.

Spent some time with a cup of coffee going over some threads, a lot said not to mount it ridgid, but this is the first time I've seen someone say they did and it was a bad idea.

Back to the drawing board, I think I can cut/tuck the existing A frame tight to the SSQA and hang it from a chain.

 

[RickB]

I converted an old Meyer snow plow to SSQA. I did it wrong. I built a rigid vertical pin for the plow to angle on. Used the two cylinders that were on the plow. This requires "float" on the FEL to be used. Too much weight. Requires large shoes. Still when plowing on unfrozen ground the shoes will track the driveway.

In a do over, I'd retain the Meyer system and let the plow hinge and carry it with a chain.

Live and learn.....

This^^

 

[nybirdman]

Definitely float the plow,l have a converted truck plow and it works well.

 

[ovrszd]

Pretty sure I copied your pictures this morning.

Spent some time with a cup of coffee going over some threads, a lot said not to mount it ridgid, but this is the first time I've seen someone say they did and it was a bad idea.

Back to the drawing board, I think I can cut/tuck the existing A frame tight to the SSQA and hang it from a chain.

Let me add to the reasoning. When I built it my Brother had a Bobcat CTL. I primarily built if for him to use. He is brutal on equipment. I over built it hoping he couldn't tear it up. Also the Bobcat's loader frame isn't as heavy as a tractor's. He got along with it fine floating the machine.

It didn't work nearly as well on my tractor.

Since I started using it on the Ford I've not had it back on the FEL of the Kubota.

I only clear a parking area in front of the house and shop plus a 200ft driveway.

 

[chim]

Below are a few threads on front plows. I use chains to float the blade only nearly all the time. The frame is built tough enough so if max scraping is needed I can either drop the weight of the loader arms on the plow or even raise the front of the tractor on the blade.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/408923-setback-underslung-ssqa-snow-plow.html

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/407444-ssqa-snow-plow.html

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/snow-removal/420681-plow-loader-arm-versus-sub.html

 

[airbiscuit]

I converted an old Meyer snow plow to SSQA. I did it wrong. I built a rigid vertical pin for the plow to angle on. Used the two cylinders that were on the plow. This requires "float" on the FEL to be used. Too much weight. Requires large shoes. Still when plowing on unfrozen ground the shoes will track the driveway.

In a do over, I'd retain the Meyer system and let the plow hinge and carry it with a chain.

Live and learn.....

The best mods I've seen retain the Meyer system and let the plow hinge and carry it with a chain, but they have the bottom mounts (that the pins slide through) underslung (below and slightly behind the SSQA mounting plate). That keeps the plow closer to the tractor, and it will float with the chain, or you can lower the loader for down force.

 

[BoylermanCT]

Floating with a chain works really well. I can curl the SSQA and pick up the plow 18" or so very quickly, faster than you can raise the FEL arms.

 

[chim]

The best mods I've seen retain the Meyer system and let the plow hinge and carry it with a chain, but they have the bottom mounts (that the pins slide through) underslung (below and slightly behind the SSQA mounting plate). That keeps the plow closer to the tractor, and it will float with the chain, or you can lower the loader for down force.

Works for me. As mentioned before, bringing the blade closer to the tractor makes it less of a "rudder" in heavier snow. With the bottom trip edge on the Fisher plow there was an unexpected benefit. That was the ability to keep the mounting structure higher behind the blade. On one build found while doing research the guy had to add a couple skids on the frame to keep it from scraping the driveway because it hung so low.

It helps to have the ability to get the height of the loader arms repeatable where the frame of the plow is level with the surface of the driveway. Doing that keeps the edge of the blade flat on the surface being plowed whether the blade is straight or angled to either side. If the frame isn't level the blade wants to put one end down when angled.

 

[LouNY]

Works for me. As mentioned before, bringing the blade closer to the tractor makes it less of a "rudder" in heavier snow. With the bottom trip edge on the Fisher plow there was an unexpected benefit. That was the ability to keep the mounting structure higher behind the blade. On one build found while doing research the guy had to add a couple skids on the frame to keep it from scraping the driveway because it hung so low.

It helps to have the ability to get the height of the loader arms repeatable where the frame of the plow is level with the surface of the driveway. Doing that keeps the edge of the blade flat on the surface being plowed whether the blade is straight or angled to either side. If the frame isn't level the blade wants to put one end down when angled.

A setup like this is the best way to go with a ssqa blade in my opinion.
I should have done the same, instead I just used my checkbook because my dealer made me a very good deal.
View attachment IMG_20171108_144913379.jpg View attachment IMG_20180205_104002041_HDR.jpg
As can be seen coming straight off the ssqa extends the blade a long way in front of the tractor,
which makes it more sensitive to the movement of the front end and with very limited float in the actual blade,
it will bury itself if the driveway is not froze hard.

 

[pcustoms]

Well last weekend it was 20 and we has snow, but it's been in the 70's this weekend and it's the last free one I'll have for a month so finished up this project.

Underslung, floats on a chain and has power angle off the 3rd function.

 

[ovrszd]

Very nice!!! Anxious to hear how it works!!!

 

[LouNY]

Well last weekend it was 20 and we has snow, but it's been in the 70's this weekend and it's the last free one I'll have for a month so finished up this project.

Underslung, floats on a chain and has power angle off the 3rd function.

Looks good

 

[Gordon Gould]

Well last weekend it was 20 and we has snow, but it's been in the 70's this weekend and it's the last free one I'll have for a month so finished up this project.

Underslung, floats on a chain and has power angle off the 3rd function.

Nice job :thumbsup: I think you will be happy with that. One thing I found out using mine was that it is easy to set the plow frame parallel to the road and at the right height working on the ground but not so easy from the seat. You need it set this way so that the cutting edge stays level when angled and for proper chain slack. I could start out plowing with it set correctly but after using the FEL controls and blade to push up and stack piles of snow it was tough to reset the blade for best performance from the seat because you cant see. With the under slung design the FEL height and SSQA angle effect each other, ie changing the SSQA angle also raises or lowers the height of the push beam and plow pins. To get a consistent setting I used some aluminum tape and a piece of heat shrink to make a line on the bucket level indicator to set the right SSQA plate angle and a couple magnet rods on the loader arms so I could set the FEL height.







gg

 

[Gordon Gould]

I need to add that I neglected to say that I stole the use of magnetic markers idea show above from chim. I just adapted his idea to my tractor. Sorry.

gg