*EDIT* DOH! helps to pay attention to page numbers of a thread.. did not see extra pages...
never use long chain between tractor and what you are pulling without taking precautions. long chain = deadly whip when things go bad, and comes flying back taking your arm / head / torso off the rest of you.
long chain, also = ropes, straps, cable, etc... shorten them up. there are ways to reduce whip effect. but try to avoid it if all possible. short length between end of tractor and what you are pulling.
-- been there done that. and amazed i am still alive and un-injured. in stupid moments i have had.
never hook up. and just gas peddle through floor board for high RPMs. and then going into gear for a sudden jump start to the end. you damage tractor, and you flip tractor over killing you.
that last one is a pain to deal with. given a little more gas, and then a little more, then a little more, then tractor wheels start a bouncing, like on a bunking bronco roodoo show.
keep it slow, keep it in lowest gear. keep your foot and hands on brakes, clutches, etc... so stop the tractor and let it come back down on all wheels.
make sure your roll cage is in working order and up.
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if you are thinking of pulling stuff at angles and what not to tractor. make sure you get the extra sway bars / chains, check chains, and like for 3pt hitch. good chance you got slime down 3pt hitch setup. without all the extra bars / chains. that help strength the 3pt hitch. for side to side play.
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bushes, i tend to wrap the bloody main trunk on it, a 2 to 4 times around. and do my best so when chain tightens. the chain itself tightens around the main branch itself. hopefully the extra limbs / branches help hold the chain on the main branch some what. for stubborn fence posts you might need to attack fence post / shrub at a couple different angles (hooking up / un hooking each time) and moving tractor to a different angle.
3pt hitch most likely going to have more "lift capacity" than FEL, but issue is getting tractor backed up. and hooked up low and as near as possible (within reason) to 3pt hitch.
A frames and old steel wheel rims. can be a benefit for stubborn shrubs. the A frames and old wheel rooms. allow you to change direction of pull. instead of side ways. they help you create a "pulling force upwards".
tree spades (i tend to see more bolt on spades for FEL general duty buckets), can be a easier way to dig up around trees / bushes. to loose up dirt and more so bust up the roots.
a backhoe, for example TLB (tractor loader backhoe), can be nice to dig in and around trees / shrubs. and tear up and take out roots going to main trunk.
mini ex (mini excavator) / excavators, just the backhoe a seat and engine nothing else. tend to be more maneuverable and allow a bit more freedom getting in and around in tight areas.
a thumb for backhoe / excavator. can be rather nice, being able to simply move backhoe out and grab stuff. pending on thumb. some have more of a "knife" like blade to them. or bucket itself for more of knife / jagged edges.
some folks have used a potato plow, and other single metal knifes per say that go into ground. and run them around trees / shrubs. to cut up roots.
trees, if you cut them down and leave say 5 to 6 feet of trunk left (not cutting it off at ground level) but cutting the top off up higher from ground. you can use the higher end of trunk like a lever, and push / pull.
be careful if you use the FEL (front end loader), and try and get one corner of the bucket under a root and try and pry the root / tree / shrub out. you could possibly twist the FEL arms. granted FEL's tend to be fairly strong. but you can set yourself up in the extremes and twist the FEL arms resulting in a bucket that is no longer level. and costly repairs to re-level.
some folks have used 'stump burners" cutting the top off, and then putting an encloser over stumps with some holes in correct places. and setting a blaze.
If you need a little more leverage:
