Big drill bits
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Industrial Toys
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My Dad has a cast aluminum crafstman drill like that. I too have been caught up in the action.
Curious what kind of a a switch is in that. Seems like it would work for a 100 amp main disconnect. And actually has a button, just for the brave, that LOCKS it on!
I bet the cord on that thing, bought circa 1967, is just as soft and pliable as the day it was bought.
Curious what kind of a a switch is in that. Seems like it would work for a 100 amp main disconnect. And actually has a button, just for the brave, that LOCKS it on!
I bet the cord on that thing, bought circa 1967, is just as soft and pliable as the day it was bought.
guitarman
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Msc has all kinds of cutting fluids both oil and water base one of the best is tapmatic, it can be used for just about any kind of drilling, it lubes and cools. Speeds and feeds is what makes drilling successful from the smallest drill up to large spade and core drills.
radios1
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were you running it at the recommended 25 RPM??.. https://disstontools.com/app/uploads/Hole_Saw_Operating_Speeds.pdf 80 RPM for a carbide tipped hole saw.. Best RPM for Hole Saws when Cutting Any Material | Pro Tool Reviews
ArlyA
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Ya, big bits = slow speeds which many drills can't do. I punch most of my large holes I need but without that, I'd be using a hole saw at home or a Bridgeport at my buddies shop. Large hold saws are indeed tough to hang onto while in a hand drill......
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I use my Bridgeport NC for drilling and it does a good job... also have various Milwaukee angle drills and a Hawg that was in clearance for $50 brand new that I have never used...
I find taper shank drills dirt cheap because most can't use them... the Southbend Lathe turns off the taper which works for me...
Back in the machine shop days I spent a lot of time with a radial arm drill... it was nice being able to swing it into position.
Also had a Mag Drill that did a good job for assemblies... just couldn't push too hard of the mag would break free...
I find taper shank drills dirt cheap because most can't use them... the Southbend Lathe turns off the taper which works for me...
Back in the machine shop days I spent a lot of time with a radial arm drill... it was nice being able to swing it into position.
Also had a Mag Drill that did a good job for assemblies... just couldn't push too hard of the mag would break free...
Industrial Toys
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I was using a cordless Ridged 1/2" drill, so I probably oversped the hole saw. Probably easy to do with the 6" diameter.
radios1
Elite Member
yep, way too easy with a hand drill.. but then, if it had gearing to accommodate that speed, it could easily break your arms!.
PILOON
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I have a Milwaukie 'hole hawg' and a nice set of dormer bits and also a drill press.
Good lubricant and I'm good to go.
On the internet I did buy a nice set cobalt hole cutters (kind of look like bell saws) which bore a nice precise hole and really last a long time.
So far have drilled a multitude of 3/4" holes in 3/8" and 1/2" mild steel with no signs of wear.
Good lubricant and I'm good to go.
On the internet I did buy a nice set cobalt hole cutters (kind of look like bell saws) which bore a nice precise hole and really last a long time.
So far have drilled a multitude of 3/4" holes in 3/8" and 1/2" mild steel with no signs of wear.
BukitCase
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"just couldn't push too hard of the mag would break free"
That's one of the reasons I bought the bigger Hougen drill - higher rated magnetic pull, + a lower (second) speed for over 1" cutters. I knew I was gonna need it for a few things that were only 1/8" thick and not practical to strap a thickner piece of steel on. Most mag drills are rated for enough pull for their size, BUT - when you read the fine print, those ratings are usually for AT LEAST 3/4" thick steel. The thinner the steel, the less they grab.
The table for the "drilling station" I linked to earlier in the thread started out as a piece of 10" channel, but I already knew the web (about 3/8") wasn't gonna work well, so I did a 1/2" cover plate over that. Then I knocked off the mill scale and smoothed it out with a fly cutter. I've drilled up to 1-1/2" holes thru 1" plate while the drill was on its table, never had a lift-off.
I'd used several different mag drills prior to retirement, so had a pretty good idea what I wanted in one; so far, still happy
One of the future plans for the drill is as a power source for a home-built line bore setup when I re-bush my 580B - both the loader and hoe are gonna need a few ... Steve
That's one of the reasons I bought the bigger Hougen drill - higher rated magnetic pull, + a lower (second) speed for over 1" cutters. I knew I was gonna need it for a few things that were only 1/8" thick and not practical to strap a thickner piece of steel on. Most mag drills are rated for enough pull for their size, BUT - when you read the fine print, those ratings are usually for AT LEAST 3/4" thick steel. The thinner the steel, the less they grab.
The table for the "drilling station" I linked to earlier in the thread started out as a piece of 10" channel, but I already knew the web (about 3/8") wasn't gonna work well, so I did a 1/2" cover plate over that. Then I knocked off the mill scale and smoothed it out with a fly cutter. I've drilled up to 1-1/2" holes thru 1" plate while the drill was on its table, never had a lift-off.
I'd used several different mag drills prior to retirement, so had a pretty good idea what I wanted in one; so far, still happy
One of the future plans for the drill is as a power source for a home-built line bore setup when I re-bush my 580B - both the loader and hoe are gonna need a few ... Steve
