Big Pine Down

[schmism]

I'm with Eddie, unless you have a use for the pine lumber

I dont know what lumber yard you buy your 2x4's from, but round hear all lumber is a pine product (or derivative such as SPF spruce,pine,fir)

so ya, unless you dont have a use for LUMBER then yes chop it up for firewood

 

[Egon]

If considering making lumber investigate the cost first.

You should be able to find a site on the INTERNET that tells you how many board feet the tree will yield. A sawyer should be able to tell you what the cost will be. Then make a decision.

Myself, I'd use my home built chainsaw mill and spend enjoyable hours making lumber. The smell of pine shavings can make a persons day.:thumbsup:

 

[20 20]

but back to your big arse pine tree... call in the local portable saw mill and have that sucker slabbed up into some lumber for something! to nice of a tree to go to firewood.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: You know your lumber.

That IMO wood definatly make some nice lumber. If when opened up it is real knotty then it would make great cabinets or some other type of furniture. WAAAAAAY to nice a chunk of wood to just throw to the curb{over a bank}. From what I can see and figure you'd end up with around 600BF of lumber {just a quess without being there}. I say you should still check with local{portable} millers or run a CL add.

 

[20 20]

I dont know what lumber yard you buy your 2x4's from, but round hear all lumber is a pine product (or derivative such as SPF spruce,pine,fir)

Yep, same here unless one is wanting a specialty wood{hard wood of some type}.

 

[JDGreenGrass]

I have got a hundred and one uses for the lumber....I thought everyone always has use for lumber.?? Guess not.

Also, on using pine for firewood.....I can assure you, no cord dealer in Maine has ever delivered softwood AND I know of no one in this area that burns it as a main source of firewood. I don't want to get into an argument about it...it's just the cold hard truth about this area, for whatever reason. Kindling maybe, but Cedar is the preferred kindling from this guy.

I am going to try to find a sawyer in this area. Got a name last night as a matter of fact. I owe it to myself to find out the cost. Like someone said, I'd hate to see it hauled off just to rot.

Seems the "poll" is 50/50 here....plank it or burn it. Like I said, I have plenty of uses for the boards.

Thanks everyone...will post back what I find out.

 

[LRTX1]

I believe you can contact Wood-Mizer and they will give you a list of their customers that do saw-mill work in your area.

I think what was meant by the "pine" lumber comment was that it would not be Pressure Treated. I would not have much use for pine unless it was P.T. The bugs would devistate it along with the weather. Everything that I would use it for would be exposed. The climate probably has much to do with it's useful value.

Good luck and let us know what you do with it.

 

[EddieWalker]

The question isn't whethere it's good wood, or if it would be nice to have the wood. The question is at what expense will it take to turn that log into usable lumber?

It's not just what the sawyer will charge for his service, but the time it will take to do this, and what type and quality of wood that he'll get from the tree?

While I have no doubt that there will be some great boards that come out of the tree, I also think that there will be a fair amount of junk.

Drying and warping are also part of the equation.

Figureing out how much time, out of pocket money and quality of material that you'll get from it, and comaring it to what you can buy at the store is the question. I think that it will be very hard to beat the price of store bought lumber. Add to this that if it's not stored properly, it will rot. If it sits for an extended period of time, it will rot or warp. How much of the wood will be used before it goes bad? How much room will it take to store that wood and is there a value at storing it compared to what that space could be used for other things?

I used to keep a fair amount of lumber on hand, but now I don't because of all the room it takes up, and how some of it will become twisted over time. You got to keep it stacked and bound to keep it in shape, and even then, some will twist on you.

Burn it and buy what you want, when you need it. You'll be money ahead and have more time on your hands to do what you enjoy. If you are like Egon, and just love cutting wood, then you'll be doing it already and not even asking about it. If you do allot of woodworking and building, then you wouldn't be asking this question either. But if this is something that you "think" you might want to try, or like to have, walk away. It will never happen, and you'll just be tripping over all that wood for the next decade. If you don't need it, don't spend the money to have it just because you think it might be a cheap way to get allot of wood. It's not that cheap, and it's not something that you need.

Burn it, or get rid of it, and move on with doing what you really like to do.

Eddie

 

[Mike_Kanzer]

I did a little research before on the internet about creosote and hardwoods vs. softwoods. Creosote is condensation of unburned flammable particulates present in exhaust gases that go up the flue and chminney. The depositing of creosote is more dependent on the flue temperature than the wood type. If the flue is hot due to a hot burning fire the creosote will not deposit on the hot metal (or chimmney brick). If you burn a well dried softwood like pine it should not lead to any more creosote build-up than a hardwood. In fact, apparently burning very wet hardwoods could cause more build-up due to a "colder" fire. With this all being said, in my area people still want hardwoods to burn. We have lots of hickory and oak in southeastern PA so supply is not a problem. - Mike

 

[20 20]

The question isn't whethere it's good wood, or if it would be nice to have the wood. The question is at what expense will it take to turn that log into usable lumber?

It's not just what the sawyer will charge for his service, but the time it will take to do this, and what type and quality of wood that he'll get from the tree?

While I have no doubt that there will be some great boards that come out of the tree, I also think that there will be a fair amount of junk.

Drying and warping are also part of the equation.

Figureing out how much time, out of pocket money and quality of material that you'll get from it, and comaring it to what you can buy at the store is the question. I think that it will be very hard to beat the price of store bought lumber. Add to this that if it's not stored properly, it will rot. If it sits for an extended period of time, it will rot or warp. How much of the wood will be used before it goes bad? How much room will it take to store that wood and is there a value at storing it compared to what that space could be used for other things?

I used to keep a fair amount of lumber on hand, but now I don't because of all the room it takes up, and how some of it will become twisted over time. You got to keep it stacked and bound to keep it in shape, and even then, some will twist on you.

Burn it and buy what you want, when you need it. You'll be money ahead and have more time on your hands to do what you enjoy. If you are like Egon, and just love cutting wood, then you'll be doing it already and not even asking about it. If you do allot of woodworking and building, then you wouldn't be asking this question either. But if this is something that you "think" you might want to try, or like to have, walk away. It will never happen, and you'll just be tripping over all that wood for the next decade. If you don't need it, don't spend the money to have it just because you think it might be a cheap way to get allot of wood. It's not that cheap, and it's not something that you need.

Burn it, or get rid of it, and move on with doing what you really like to do.

Eddie

Sorry EddieWalker, I do respect your opinions, but have to disagree with this one completely.

I own a small mill and have milled many board feet for myself and others over the years. I have seen issues with some boards but not worth complaining about. I have kept lumber stacked over winter up here{snow and rain country} with just a simple tarp thrown over, no binding or weight. The lumber is fine and had no problems/issues. I will gladly compare my lumber to ANY store bought garbage any day. I do occassionally need treated lumber and have a fit when I go to lowes or Home depot to pick it out. I unloaded a complete stack at lowes not so long ago just to find 3or 4 pieces of decent lumber.

Of course I am not there looking at this log, BUT from the pictures this log would definately be worth turning into lumber. At the very least he could offer it up for free{I'm sure someone would nab it}. It would be nice to see something like this go to good use. I also believe he stated he had 101 uses for the lumber

 

[20 20]

I have got a hundred and one uses for the lumber....I thought everyone always has use for lumber.?? Guess not.

:thumbsup: Even when I'm sick and tired of seeing lumber and think I'm all done with it, another project pops up

Also, on using pine for firewood.....I can assure you, no cord dealer in Maine has ever delivered softwood AND I know of no one in this area that burns it as a main source of firewood. I don't want to get into an argument about it...it's just the cold hard truth about this area, for whatever reason. Kindling maybe, but Cedar is the preferred kindling from this guy.

Like I said I was just curious as to why not use it I was not trying to start and argument just wondering.

I am going to try to find a sawyer in this area. Got a name last night as a matter of fact. I owe it to myself to find out the cost. Like someone said, I'd hate to see it hauled off just to rot.

Seems the "poll" is 50/50 here....plank it or burn it. Like I said, I have plenty of uses for the boards.

Thanks everyone...will post back what I find out.

Glad to read your going to atleast try and turn it into something usefull. Like I said if I lived closer I'd help you out or even take it off your hands :thumbsup:.

 

[beenthere]

Eddie might have his experience with the southern yellow pines, and they do behave differently than the NE white pines. They stay put better when drying than the SYP.

 

[20 20]

I did a little research before on the internet about creosote and hardwoods vs. softwoods. Creosote is condensation of unburned flammable particulates present in exhaust gases that go up the flue and chminney. The depositing of creosote is more dependent on the flue temperature than the wood type. If the flue is hot due to a hot burning fire the creosote will not deposit on the hot metal (or chimmney brick). If you burn a well dried softwood like pine it should not lead to any more creosote build-up than a hardwood. In fact, apparently burning very wet hardwoods could cause more build-up due to a "colder" fire. With this all being said, in my area people still want hardwoods to burn. We have lots of hickory and oak in southeastern PA so supply is not a problem. - Mike

:thumbsup: That is correct, some folks are affraid to burn soft woods because of the old wifes tails about them being bad for the chimney, stove etc.. I understand if folks don't want to burn them, but atleast use an educated reason. IMO heat is heat and if it's free then that's even better :laughing:

 

[20 20]

Eddie might have his experience with the southern yellow pines, and they do behave differently than the NE white pines. They stay put better when drying than the SYP.

I was wondering the same thing. Different woods and even the same type wood in different locations will react differently. I can cut logs out of a swamp and it's characteristics will be different then the same type wood cut off a dry hill top.

I ment no ill towards Eddies post either, just wanted to show that there is more then one way to skin a cat{so to speak}

 

[arrow]

:thumbsup: That is correct, some folks are affraid to burn soft woods because of the old wifes tails about them being bad for the chimney, stove etc.. I understand if folks don't want to burn them, but atleast use an educated reason. IMO heat is heat and if it's free then that's even better :laughing:

I would think it depends on the type of stove. I have a friend who used pine in his Garn outdoor boiler and gummed up the heck out of it. This type of boiler uses a hot fire to heat up 2000 gallons of stored water. I have no experience with pine being burned in a catalytic stove or the type that uses stainless steel tubing with small air inlet tubes allowing for smoke combustion. Might cause similar problems as with the Garn.

 

[JDGreenGrass]

Sorry EddieWalker, I do respect your opinions, but have to disagree with this one completely.

I own a small mill and have milled many board feet for myself and others over the years. I have seen issues with some boards but not worth complaining about. I have kept lumber stacked over winter up here{snow and rain country} with just a simple tarp thrown over, no binding or weight. The lumber is fine and had no problems/issues. I will gladly compare my lumber to ANY store bought garbage any day. I do occassionally need treated lumber and have a fit when I go to lowes or Home depot to pick it out. I unloaded a complete stack at lowes not so long ago just to find 3or 4 pieces of decent lumber.

Of course I am not there looking at this log, BUT from the pictures this log would definately be worth turning into lumber. At the very least he could offer it up for free{I'm sure someone would nab it}. It would be nice to see something like this go to good use. I also believe he stated he had 101 uses for the lumber

In all due respect Eddie, I agree with this post.

I have hardwood to burn to keep me warm....I won't use it for heat. Period, whatever.

I do have uses for the lumber...kitchen pantry, shelfing, possible wood platform to keep firewood off the ground, I need interior closets....on and on. I should add that the entire interior of my house is done in Knotty Pine and Cedar.

And, I too have sifted through Home Depots wood stacks searching for good straight lengths. Now, I buy my pine local and let the yardmen sift through thier piles and put in my truck for me.:thumbsup:

I am convinced it isn't junk. I know junk when I see it. I originally said that at worst it is a grade #3 log. I'll stick with that. I think the first 25 to 30 feet of the log is most likely all that I will have sawed.

I do agree that I need to know the cost so that I don't rip myself off but, a 12" inch board is not cheap, even at the big box stores.

I'll keep you all posted.

 

[arrow]

Hello all.

This past winter I had a big Maine pine tree blow down (up-rooted) in my back yard. It is the sort of about 60 to 70 feet and the trunk at it's widest point is roughly 24to 30 inches. It's a big tree. Questions.....

I have limbed it out. The slash is laying along the down tree. Can I pile it up and burn it.?? It's pine...will it burn or smolder.?? Or, how can I use my tractor to clean up the slash.(get it into the woods).?? I don't have a grapple. I have a bucket, a 6' rake and a 6' rear blade and a carry all......any use at all.??

What is the best way to use the pine.?? I am thinking of having a portable saw mill come and cut it into 2x4's and boards....maybe 1x6's or 1x10's. It's one tree...Is it worth it and how much lumber would I get (roughly).??

Well, let's start with this.....

Suggestions please.

For slash clearing, I'd reverse my rake and just back into the slash and push it to where I want to pile it. You can also push it onto a long length of chain(16' or so with a slip hook and perpendicular to the chain) and when you get a pile, wrap it with the chain, attach it to the tractor and drag it to where you want.

How much wood can be roughly computed by multiplying the length , width and thickness of the lumber divided by 144" . This will give you board ft and then you have to minus the 30-40% waste you get from cutting if you imagine a large beam cut from the tree. Times that what the standard cost for bd ft in your area and it will begin to give you a money worth.

I had a similar experience with an 80' blow down. I sold a 20' ft part of the tree to a horse farm that had a cross country layout. I carved out the name of the farm on the trunk, varnished it and got $750 for it.

 

[studor]

There are a lot of places in Northern Canada where softwoods are burnt because that is what is there. I regularly burn cedar, poplar and balsam fir in the spring and fall to warm up the house in a hurry -- the major problem as was pointed out previously is that you need to feed the fire twice as often
In terms of gumming up boilers etc, those things have a tendency to burn cool and smoky due to the size of the firepot and the amount of liquid you are trying to heat-- I would not want one upwind of me!
I too would try and salvage the wood and then burn the remnants. I use the slabs for evaporating maple sap
The slash will burn very quickly once you get it going with a propane torch -- and it does not have to be particularly dry -- the needles flare very quickly and a thirty foot flame is not uncommon. You will get a fair amount of smoke and steam if it is still green but it will burn. Be prepared to keep pushing stuff into the centre for a complete burn.

 

[JDGreenGrass]

For slash clearing, I'd reverse my rake and just back into the slash and push it to where I want to pile it. You can also push it onto a long length of chain(16' or so with a slip hook and perpendicular to the chain) and when you get a pile, wrap it with the chain, attach it to the tractor and drag it to where you want.

How much wood can be roughly computed by multiplying the length , width and thickness of the lumber divided by 144" . This will give you board ft and then you have to minus the 30-40% waste you get from cutting if you imagine a large beam cut from the tree. Times that what the standard cost for bd ft in your area and it will begin to give you a money worth.

I had a similar experience with an 80' blow down. I sold a 20' ft part of the tree to a horse farm that had a cross country layout. I carved out the name of the farm on the trunk, varnished it and got $750 for it.

Thank you for this post. It refers to my "other" question and I think this can be done....in regards to pileing it with the reversed rake.

I also thought about the chain....I've got 10' chain with a slip hook. Probably not long enough to get much done but, a good excuse to get out and buy a 20' length of chain.:thumbsup:

 

[boxygen]

JDGreenGrass, you are on the right track. If you have the time and interest in sawing this tree for lumber you definitely will come out ahead. Sawing will cost you around $200-250/1000 BF roughly. The cheapest rough sawn lumber you will be able to buy in your area would be around $.50/BF on a good day. You will get plenty of much higher grade boards that would easily fetch over 1.00/BF if you wanted to purchase it at the lumberyard, but you will also end up with a lot of stuff that isnt much good for anything but sheathing an outbuilding or something. Pine Generally shouldnt be used for anything structural as Im sure you are aware.
As you know, even for us frugal Mainers burning pine is not practical even when its free. I burn a small amount only when mixed with other hardwood. In a woodstove, even very dry white pine just doesnt hold a flame very well unless split up into pretty small pieces if it has bark on it. So much effort is used in cutting, splitting, stacking, and FEEDING the stove every 2 hours that not many people do it. I agree creosote isnt a species issue, is a flue temp issue and pine needs to be burned hot not to create creosote, it needs much more air to burn at the proper temp than most woods in my experience and this burns the low density wood even faster. I also respectfully agree with Eddie that you need much more than a few weeks to season wood in order burn it. Unseasoned wood wastes a significant chunk of BTU's converting water to steam instead of heating your house, which is in a lot of cases keeps flue temperatures low, not combusting the byproducts of the fire (smoke) in turn creating creosote.
The only obstacle that I see is finding a sawyer that will come to your lot for only one tree, but given the economy, that might not be as much of a challange these days. If you find one local enough, you probably wont have a problem with that. Also, I would get recommendations or references because I have seen some pretty crappy onsite sawyers that use dull blades, push their equipment too fast, or have too small of a rig which results in product that varies in thickness, is wavy and creates a lot more work for the end user to make it into usable lumber.
Goodluck:thumbsup:

 

[Egon]

[I agree creosote isn't a species issue, is a flue temp issue /QUOTE]


Oh no, you're dispelling a long known characteristic of burning deciduous softwoods!:laughing:

I like Pine in the fire place. Ex specially pine with lots of pitch. It's much more interesting to watch than most of the TV programs.:thumbsup: