BIG ROCK PROBLEM????

dirtworksequip · Jan 5, 2007

BTDT, thats a thought. I may be able to place the blade against one corner and pull on the opposite corner with the bucket and spin it that way. I'll have to look at it tomorrow. Rainy here, so probably will not be doing anything,but thinking it over. I tried opening your pdf. but could not get it. I'll try again later.Hopefully I'll be able to look at the file.Thanks for the suggestions.

Havoctec · Jan 5, 2007

It seems that you are missing what is painfully obvious. What better reason could you have to justify a bigger toy.

Sorry I couldn't resist. But you can't argue that it would be a very simple solution. Just a little costly

dirtworksequip · Jan 5, 2007

Havoctec, yea I know what ya mean. I was actually looking for a good clean CAT 311CU or 312C when I bought the 308CCR. The bigger machines would have made life alot easier. I looked for over a year to find a good larger clean,low hour machine, just couldn't find one. So I ended up with the 308 which is undersized for the tast at hand.

Brad_Blazer · Jan 5, 2007

I'm chiming in kind of late here but would it work to pump some water under the rock to lubricate it?

With it cantilevered out the weight will really be concentrated under the balance point as I guess you have observed. Are you planning on something like a concrete pier to support it when you put it back?

Egon · Jan 5, 2007

Just think of the "Rock" as house that needs a new basement. Jack it up in place. Pour some concrete piers in the proper places. Lower back down.

dirtworksequip · Jan 5, 2007

If I was moving it downhill some water might help slide it into place. As it is now I don't think it will make that much difference. I'm not sure what to build for it to sit on. Maybe 4 cylinder shaped concrete poured piers 8 inches x 3 feet into original ground. Or the piers with a couple steel beams on top to help with sliding it back in place. I now wish I had set up something for it to set on when I originally slid it into place because it was sitting just where I wanted it. As far as chimming in too late. Its not, because the rock isn't where it needs to go yet. So i'm open to any and all suggestions. Thanks for the imput.

dirtworksequip · Jan 5, 2007

Egon, any suggestions on what to place under the jacks to keep them from going into the ground?

dirtworksequip · Jan 5, 2007

Egon, a light just came on! If I could get two steel beams under it width wise with a jack on each end it may just be able to get it lifted enough to do something with it.If I can keep the jacks from disappearing into the ground. Thats alot of jacking with 4-20 ton jacks though. If I can get the sheet steel under it,wet it down, I think the 308 might just be able to slide it. I will get it done one way or another. I appreciate everyones ideas as to how to go about moving it.

Egon · Jan 6, 2007

Dig holes at two points on either side of the rock. Put a bottle jack in each hole on some wood, concrete pads etc. ?? , jack up the one side a little and get some cribbing under the rock, then move to the other side and repeat. Work back and forth on the two sides till the rock is high enough for you to work with.

I would advise not to get under the rock unless there are proper beams underneath supporting it.

charlz · Jan 6, 2007

The ground looks pretty soft. I would not underestimate the weight of the rock _over time_ Any little pilings you put in there will slowly be driven into the ground by the continuous weight of the rock.

I would think you would need some support forward (water side) of the tipping point otherwise it will eventually settle and slide down into the pond. I would think about pilings and maybe some type of vertical rock face below it to cover up the pilings. An abutment similar to those used on bridges with the tipping point right on or right behind it might do the trick. Then you could conceal the concrete with rubble. If you really wanted it to stick out past the tipping point you would need to counterweight the backend.

Lots of chains and then trying to pull it with the track hoe using the drive and the hoe to pull is probably the most straightforward. Not sure how that would work in the soft ground (and I have never used a trackhoe).

Spinning it sideways and then walking it back one end at a time would work as long as the end you are not working with does not move toward the water. Perhaps you could chain that end to your skidsteer just to help convince it to not move. The first few steps would be critical, once you get it away from the edge it would matter as much. Even making more of a swale then a trench behind it might help. Once you get it away from the water you have a lot better chance of pushing it around and then re-working the ground.

Charles