Black Oak Down! (Advice?)

[jmc]

I just discovered this blocking my driveway. Glad I dont have to be anywhere important for awhile. Theres only one way out of here.

Those track strips across the bridge are 18 inches wide for perspective. Trunk is supported only by the bridge and by the rootball, just out of the picture. At least up there, its not so high off the ground.

The last time I cut a tree between supported ends there wasnt enough clearance under it to finish from below. With all that weight, the top kerf closed before I could withdraw the blade. So that didnt go so well... This one is a little different but I thought Id ask the more experienced here how they would cut this. I really dont want to cut above my shoulder height.

Thanks,

John

 

[CADplans]

If I have only one chainsaw,, I start the cutting in at least 5 locations,,
that will give the tree some flex in case the saw gets caught.

 

[ch1ch2]

I would cut the top of the tree that is in the air to remove weight.
I would next, start cutting the right side as pictured from the under side.

Of course I am not there to get a real look at it and I can not judge weight and potential fall areas.
Hard to give advice from my desk.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I would cut the top of the tree that is in the air to remove weight.
I would next, start cutting the right side as pictured from the under side.

Of course I am not there to get a real look at it and I can not judge weight and potential fall areas.
Hard to give advice from my desk.

That is what I would do also. Remove the limbs from the top but leave it supported on the bridge. Then go back to the root ball and cut about 1/3 to 1/2 thru from the top, then work from the bottom to finish the cut. If you have some old firewood or other material that you can block up the tree with so it wont fall completely to the ground, it will be better so you wont be getting your saw into the ground when cutting.
Wedges are your friend also use to keep the kerf from closing up on the top.

 

[deanocraft]

Let me start with the disclaimer that I am not an actual lumberjack. I have survived a similar experience clearing away a 24" oak tree that fell across the road to my house. It was suspended over the road and looking pretty dangerous, so it had to go and I had to do it... My wife was intrigued enough that she filmed the carnage.

I would start by cutting away the limbs, and then get them out of the way. You should eventually be able to remove all of them up to where the tree is touching the bridge. Just be careful of any limbs that might have pressure on them from the tree weight. If I had to cut one of those, I would probably save it for last, after everything else is cleared out. Then cut a short piece away near the ground. Think firewood length, until there is no pressure on the limb. Once you have that done, it will be easier to cut sections off the length.

 

[ericm979]

I would cut the top of the tree that is in the air to remove weight.
I would next, start cutting the right side as pictured from the under side.

That's what I would do as well, based on the pic. When making the cut on the trunk on the right, cut about 1/4 in from the top, then finish from the bottom. That's assuming that the trunk is actually in tension on the bottom. It looks that way from the pic but I can't see what's on the right side in the bushes. And always watch the kerf while cutting. If you see it closing pull the saw out quick! Then re-evaluate.

When cutting up from the bottom on something like that you have to be ready for it to break suddenly and fall, taking the saw with it. You can usually pull the saw out before it hits the ground. But keep your feet out of there.

 

[yomax4]

I might live dangerously but I cut a lot of firewood and maintain a similar road. I would go to left where the tree sits on the bridge and go up a few feet, Cut 1/3rd through and come up from the bottom. The top will go over the edge. Then move right and do it again and again in 4' lengths or firewood lengths. Yes, Be ready to move. You could tie off the top to a pickup to keep it from going your way. Should be a fun project.

 

[4570Man]

I might live dangerously but I cut a lot of firewood and maintain a similar road. I would go to left where the tree sits on the bridge and go up a few feet, Cut 1/3rd through and come up from the bottom. The top will go over the edge. Then move right and do it again and again in 4' lengths or firewood lengths. Yes, Be ready to move. You could tie off the top to a pickup to keep it from going your way. Should be a fun project.

That’s the approach I’d use but I’d probably take it in less than 4’ piece so the drop isn’t as far.

 

[Egon]

I might live dangerously but I cut a lot of firewood and maintain a similar road. I would go to left where the tree sits on the bridge and go up a few feet, Cut 1/3rd through and come up from the bottom. The top will go over the edge. Then move right and do it again and again in 4' lengths or firewood lengths. Yes, Be ready to move. You could tie off the top to a pickup to keep it from going your way. Should be a fun project.

That is the way I'd try also. Make sure there is an a axe or handsaw available for when you decide to have a go at it from the top.

 

[LD1]

Id do like others said and start at the left, rootball side.

That looks like a pretty steep hill, And I wouldnt want to be up and down that hill with a saw in hand.

Looks like you got quite a stable of equipment. Pretty stout backhoe and CTL. Use one of them to control, and help pull the thing back down the hill as you cut it up

 

[Gary Fowler]

Id do like others said and start at the left, rootball side.

That looks like a pretty steep hill, And I wouldnt want to be up and down that hill with a saw in hand.

Looks like you got quite a stable of equipment. Pretty stout backhoe and CTL. Use one of them to control, and help pull the thing back down the hill as you cut it up

I didn't notice that the OP had a backhoe. Just lift the tree with the backhoe and cut it anyway you like.

 

[MossRoad]

The rootball is on the right of the picture, I believe...

I'd do like others have suggested and cut off the stuff to the left of the bridge first, and let it fall down, out of the way, which will also relieve some pressure on the left side of the bridge.

Next, I'd move about 32" in from the left (I cut 16" firewood, so 32" would be two widths for me), cut down from the topside no more than 1/4 of the way through the log to avoid a pinched bar.

Finally, I'd cut up from the bottom the rest of the way, being careful and going very slow so as to be able to see how the log will start to bend down as the bottom cut starts to open. Hopefully, the log will just set down onto the bridge, and the whole thing with rootball won't come sliding down the hill at you. It probably won't, but hey, pretty much everything unexpected can happen. Caution is your best friend.

Then repeat again until you have cleared the left side of the bridge.

 

[4570Man]

The op has enough equipment this will be a piece of cake. My CTL would pick up that whole tree and drop it in a more convenient location for cutting up. Without looking up the specs I’d assume the OPs skid steer would too.

 

[CobyRupert]

The last time I cut a tree between supported ends there wasnt enough clearance under it to finish from below. With all that weight, the top kerf closed before I could withdraw the blade. So that didnt go so well... This one is a little different but I thought Id ask the more experienced here how they would cut this. I really dont want to cut above my shoulder height.

Thanks,

John

For horizontal logs: Use a wedge or two or three to prevent the kerf from closing up on your saw.

...and/or for getting your saw out when it does.

 

[jmc]

OP here. Cleaned it up without incident. Started on the left (lower) side and worked my way up. It kept all the cuts at a safe height.

This tree was 22-24 inches in diameter- probably too much weight for my TBL. A lot of length was beyond the picture. Heres the parts you couldnt see.

Thanks All, for the suggestions. They helped.

 

[Egon]

Good Show!

 

[MossRoad]

Glad it worked out for you. :thumbsup:

 

[crazyal]

I'd be glad it hit your abutment and not your bridge. Glad you got it removed safely.

 

[jmc]

I'd be glad it hit your abutment and not your bridge....

OP here.

I had the same thought and so did my helper. It would have broken off the overhanging two feet of those 3 inch x 8 inch creosoted oak decking timbers. And the place in Terre Haute that made them went out of business. The original hickory decking the contractor used had mushrooms growing out of them after about 5 years. These replacements are at 18 years and some moss is just starting on the ends.