Black pipe or galvanized for shop air lines?

[Scrambler82]

Nothing yet. I'm still in Afghanistan, but should be home and working on setting up my barn/shop by late summer or early fall. I don't get to check the site as often as I'd like, but I'm still reading responses and weighing my options.

I'm learning about different set ups from all the posts, and not just what to use, but how to install it for the most useful and efficient shop possible. Thanks to all for the info and suggestions.

First thanks for for your service.
good idea to get things straight in your head before going the job and it give you something to think about !
I found the the rubber hose worked great and was easy to run, just keep a slight angle,to the main feed to drain back to the main tank where you will have a the main drain to bleed the system.
I used barbed fittings to pipe for all end of line connecting, standard screw hose clamps worked and easy to connect; the squeeze type clamps were a pain.
i started the main feed run by first planning where the branch line we're going to be, coiled out the hose ( again pressure rated hose - compressor max plus 50%...), cut the main hose adding the branch tee fittings. Mounted both ends pulled it tight and started wall mounting clamping, first in the center, then at the quarter points, then at the eighth points, watch for sagging in the line. If the line sags water can possibly build up so keep the line tight with no sags, add more wall clamps as necessary.
The branch line tees can be lessened and turned as needed once the main line is mounted.
I ran a main line down the center of the shop and branched off where I wanted air, I.e. Drill press, grinder, sandblasted, work benches and one for the outside, which never froze up.

Also, I use a commercial 1/4 turn ball valve for branch lines, main shut off and drains.
None of them leaked while I used them (sold that system before I sold my last house).
I have a few more that will be used on the new system once the new shop/barn is in place, try basic plumber type valves but they may leak because they are not rated for 150 or 175 psi.

Sorry got carried away again, I get started and don't know when to stop... now is a good time.

ltr

 

[ray66v]

Try it your air gun (unless it's chinese junk will show a difference. Some painter said they flow 12CFM which will power anything but heavy equipment air guns like 1" drives so they work as well as the dedicated huge 3/8 couplers that cost awfully. Amazon.com: Milton S-217 V Style Hi-Flow Coupler Kit: Automotive

We were switched to RBL high flow air fittings in the body shop about 15 years ago, on suggestion of our paint supplier.

I was painting full time, and spraying gallons of solid colors and spray sensitive metallic's every week.

If there was a difference in the performance of my Devilbiss GTI hvlp, (not cheap, or Chinese), with the high flow couplers, I would have noticed it. I never did.

They may make a difference with a different gun. But, they didn't with mine.


I repair pneumatic tools now. We test impact wrenches on a Skidmore torque tester, which gives an accurate assessment of output.

Testing tools, (new and used), on the Skidmore, with 10' air hoses, I found the following:

A 1/2" impact will produce it's maximum rated output on an ordinary 1/4" "M" style couplers, and a 3/8" hose. It does not need, or benefit from more volume.

A 3/4" impact will gain a 10% increase in power, using a 3/8" coupler, (Hanson 5000 series), on a 1/2" hose, over a 1/4" coupler on a 3/8" hose. A 3/8 hose, doesn't do it, on this size tool, and up. Especially if you have 50, or more feet of hose. You may find the results acceptable, but you are losing power. Especially, if you have a dirt filter at the tool, which is always a good idea, if you use them a lot.

With a 1" impact, the same will happen, if you go from a 3/8" coupler on a 1/2" hose, to a 1/2" hose, with a Dixon air king, full flow coupler. You gain about 10% more power.

I just rebuilt an 1-1/2" Impact, and it performed well, but actually wanted more air, than we could supply it with 1/2" hoses.

 

[Scrambler82]

It isn't my thread but a lot of info.
Thks for taking the time to post.

 

[drizler]

So:
Cool the air as much as possible before the air gets to the tank. A 150' copper condenser between the compressor and tank would be fantastic.



Ok since this particular subject is on my plate in the near future just what about that CONDENSER ? Can it be as simple as a 150' loop of copper tubing in coils say stuck on the wall? Or does it have to be more like a solar panel hot water heater with the copper pipes running up and down. to a bottom line which has a small catch tank below with a drain valve.. Then the line running to the tank itself? How about some specifics on rigging one of those. Also, from what I just heard about CFM flow in small tubing can you get away with something like good old 3/8 copper tubing and still get flow enough for the common shop tools?

 

[Fallon]

So:
Cool the air as much as possible before the air gets to the tank. A 150' copper condenser between the compressor and tank would be fantastic.



Ok since this particular subject is on my plate in the near future just what about that CONDENSER ? Can it be as simple as a 150' loop of copper tubing in coils say stuck on the wall? Or does it have to be more like a solar panel hot water heater with the copper pipes running up and down. to a bottom line which has a small catch tank below with a drain valve.. Then the line running to the tank itself? How about some specifics on rigging one of those. Also, from what I just heard about CFM flow in small tubing can you get away with something like good old 3/8 copper tubing and still get flow enough for the common shop tools?

A condenser is about surface area. The more surface area, the faster/better you bring the internal temperature down to the external temperature. Air conditioning gear is relevant as it's designed for high pressures & rapid cooling. A long bit of copper will work decently as well, although without fins to increase the surface area it won't be as effective per foot as a real condenser.

After looking for a cheap solution for a while I finally gave up and bought an intercooler designed just for this AKG Air Cooled Aftercooler, Max HP 15, 60 CFM - G3188306 at Zoro. I mounted it infront of the fan/flywheel on my 12cfm @100psi Kobalt compressor & plumbed it in with some hydraulic hose. Inlet of the inter-cooler is to hot to touch on the inlet side when I'm sandblasting, but still at ambient temperature on the outlet side, so it's working well. I have the inter-cooler between the compressor head & the tank, so when the unloader valve kicks in it takes a little while longer, but it purges the inter-cooler as well.

I'm getting a ton of water out when I drain the tank at the end of the day, but despite seeing some decent condensation on the filter bowl for the regulator coming out of the tank, I've not been able to get any water to drain out. After that I have about a 1 gallon descant filter that never sees any moisture. The RapidAir MaxLine metal/plastic line is working great, dam easy to install & safe. All the outlets have a drip leg & drain, although I've never seen anything come out of them when I drain them. I haven't bothered pointing the T on the mainline up either.

Personally I think if you properly cool & regulate things near the tank, you'll never end up with any moisture in the lines to deal with at all. Cool it down to drop a lot of the moisture carrying ability down in the tank, then regulate it a little to increase the moisture carrying capacity a bit after you've dumped most of the moisture out so it will pick up & contain any that might be hanging around.

 

[JRP]

Well said Fallon. For the regulator to work the air must be close to ambient temperature prior to the regulator.

About the regulator comments, yes we also have desiccant dryers for the "instrument" grade air, which is at -40f dewpoint. The regulator will not remove moisture, but keeps the dewpoint such that no free water droplets will form.

 

[ultrarunner]

I opted for the dryer, auto drain, etc because the air is used to power an ethylene oxide sterilizer in a hospital laboratory setting.

Boss came to me in 1996 and said the hospital is buying the sterilizer and left it up to me to make it work...

No issues so far except the pressure switch contactors do wear out every 5 years... ordered all Speedair components right out of the Grainger Catalog

Did I say how much I love auto drains???

PS... I went with 220 volt system in the off chance it might be surplus someday... have the perfect place for the whole shooting match in my shop...

 

[94BULLITT]

I like the 1/4 turn valves with the full size port...

Milton S1094-6 Full Port Brass Ball Valve, 3/8" x 3/8" Female NPT, 260 PSI @ 210

Thanks, those are similar to the ones I have. I have a American Standard on the compressor leaking externally. It has not been in the compressor long. I have a Watts at a drop off that leaks internally.

 

[SpringHollow]

It is unbelievable how much water my "Franzinator" removes. But I still get a little water in the subsequent black iron "U's" before it goes into the desiccant dryer. Only then does it go into my tank from which I never see water when I open the drain. There is a lot of ,moisture in the air here during the summer.

Ken

 

[drizler]

Just looking at the picture the Fallon posted of that commercial condenser I can't help but wonder one thing. It is almost exactly the same size as the generic pickup truck auxiliary auto tranny cooler i have hanging on my wall. What is to stop someone from soldering something like that in for the same effect. $170 seems pretty pricy for that small typical looking radiator.