Blade Clearance from Ground

[Gizmo2]

stuart,
I did not mean too heavy but rather physically too big. Just because JD says your tractor will handle it does not mean it will be correct in every way.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Unfortunately, I think that the low rear blade syndrome is common. Unless one has a hydraulic top link to use to raise the blade up quite a bit for transport. If no hydraulic top link, then either remake the hitch mounts to allow for a higher lifting or live with the low blade height for transport. There have been a few members here that have complained of the same height problem. It hinders the effectiveness of the blade to have a manual top link collapsed for the added height in transport and then to leave it collapsed for grading. The blade is usually in the wrong angle position to work properly with the top link collapsed all the way.

Unfortunately this is a problem that many have to deal with.

 

[stuart]

Thanks for helping me to realize that I may have "Low Blade Syndrome".
I have always wanted a hydraulic center link so maybe it is time for an addition to my tractor.
I can get by with 10" of ground clearance but will have to crefully choose my path of travel in a couple of places.
I am still thinking I can raise my height high enough by swapping the Lift Arms and placing them in the forward holes on the Draft Links, getting a longer set of anti-sway links. It looks like it will give me a few more inches of lift. Any reason why the Anti-sway links cannot be attached behind the lift arms on the draft link??

 

[JDGreenGrass]

From the side profile of your tractor it is showing that your top link can be adjusted significantly.

When the blade is engaged with the ground your lift arms and the attachment should be relatively flat.

Looks to me like you've got plenty of adjustment.

What's the question.??

Also, in the first photo, your arms look do not look to be level with one another. One is significantly lower than the other.

 

[Leejohn]

Looks like a 50 to 75hp blade on a small tractor. And doesn't help with small turf tires. Re do the top link. You well not be able to get the main beam to run level, give a little on that and the back well be higher.

 

[stuart]

JD GreenGrass; There is still adjustment to the top link you are correct and I can raise it higher and that is one way to solve the problem. But it may create another issue.
The photo with the 2 arms at different heights demonstrate that I can get additional height by moving both lift arms to the away position from the tractor on the Draft link (arm). In the photo ONLY ONE of the link arms (the closer one) is at the away position while the other is in the factory position. That is why they appear at different heights.
As I explained however, in this position, my anti-sway links are too short and will have to be replaced with longer ones (like the ones on a 4700). But each 2 part anti-sway link is 100$ from JD.
I am planning on just using some chain as an anti-sway replacement. 17" length should do the trick on each side.
This way I will not have to tighten the top link any further and I can still attach and release implements from the quick hitch without any more adjustments to the top link.

Leejohn; Yes you are correct. Large Blade on small tractor w/turf tires. I wanted Tilt,Angle and Offset and could not find it on a smaller blade. I think I can make this all work in its current configuration with new Anti-sway links and moving both lift arms to the rear position on the draft links.
THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR YOUR INPUT;
Update to follow in a week or two

 

[Gizmo2]

Update to follow in a week or two

A WEEK OR TWO! Oh sure keep us in suspense.

 

[RedDirt]

On my KK blade the tabs that connect to the draft arms pointed foward toward the tractor. I had 8" blade ground clearance. I cut them off and reattached them pointing down and increased clearance to 17"+.

See here for a link. There is also a link in the first post of this thread to a discussion that lead me to this fix.

 

[stuart]

Gizmo; Sorry but the tractor is 150 miles from here and my next trip isn't scheduled for 10 days. I have NO INTERNET CONNECTION AT THAT LOCATION.

Red Dirt; I am trying to understand what you mean by "Rotate the 3 point hitch arms pin tabs downward to increase lift height."
Can you take a shot at explaining it to me?

Looking at the post I was wondering if I would get greater lift height depending on where I attached the center link. I moved it from the center hole to the top hole but now I am wondering if the lowest hole will give me the most lift.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Reddirt is saying to take the clevis hitch where your quick hitch connects to the implement for the lower 3pt arms and cut the clevis off and re-weld it on at the bottom. Turning the clevises 90 degrees downward. I don't think that that will work for you though if you want to be able to use your quick hitch with your rear blade. He posted a link to what he did showing what worked for him. Post # 28 where HERE is highlighted. Click HERE and you will see a picture of what he did.

 

[RedDirt]

Thanks MtnView for clarifying for me. In the first four photos of my link you can see the fresh weld on the tabs that connect the BB to the lower arms, especially the close up in pic #4.

Originally the tabs were horizontal and the pins were in front of the main support bar of the BB facing the tractor. Rotating them so the pins are below the main arm of the BB not only lowered the arms it also set the lower pins further behind the top link attachment allowing an increased top link length. The combination of both conditions increased my full up ground clearance from 8" to 17".

You are right that this may not be a fix to use with a quick hitch but it may help others.

Stuart, Before I rotated my lower link tabs I considered purchasing a second adjustable side link figuring I could then shorten both side links and get better lift. Would this be an option for you (cheaper than two longer sway links)? See parts "C" & "D" in your diagram.

 

[stuart]

Redirt: I am still considering 2 options at the moment.
The First is to move both lift arms back to the connecting places where the anti-sway links attach on the draft links. Then I will use chain to (lengthen) replace the anti-sway links. That would be cheaper than buying JD anti-sway links for 100$ each.
The Second route I will consider (if that does not give me enough lift height) would be to buy 2 NEW SHORTER lift links that would give me the ability to raise the hitch to a higher position.
BOTH of my lift links (D & H) are already adjusted all the way to shorten their length so it seems I would have to replace both. Did you mean to say "H" not "C" in my diagram?
I was looking at Weaver's Compact Tractor as a possible source of new ones. Hitch Kits: 3 point Hitch Kits || Weaver's Compact Tractor Parts & Compact Tractor Salvage

 

[JohninCT]

This may have been mentioned already,but in looking at the picture of the blade attached to the tractor it looks like there is an upward angle of the blade main beam. This is causing your draft links to be pretty well raised to hitch up to the pins. This limits amount of your remaining lift. If you shortened up on the top link and got the blade beam so that it was more in line with your draft links then you'd be able to lift the blade much higher. Am I missing something?

 

[stuart]

John; I will attempt to shorten the top link a bit more but when I do this I change the angle of the blade to cut less. I was attempting to have the blade square with the ground so it would not cut too much or too little when it contact the road surface. Am I missing something OR just not understanding?

 

[RedDirt]

Redirt: I am still considering 2 options at the moment.

BOTH of my lift links (D & H) are already adjusted all the way to shorten their length so it seems I would have to replace both. Did you mean to say "H" not "C" in my diagram?
I was looking at Weaver's Compact Tractor as a possible source of new ones. Hitch Kits: 3 point Hitch Kits || Weaver's Compact Tractor Parts & Compact Tractor Salvage

Stuart,
The diagram is pretty small on my screen. It looked like C&D was your adjustable side (lift) link and H was the fixed length link. I was suggesting you replace the fixed length link with an adjustable one.

Normally one side (lift) link is fixed and the other is adjustable to allow tilt. With two adjustable links, one on each side, you could raise up both sides (shorten both the links), keeping the blade level (no tilt side-to-side) and get a higher lift.

Do you already have two adjustable side links? Two adjustable links can be a good thing as it allows for more tilt adjustment (lengthen one, shorten the other) than available with one.

You aren't missing anything on your top link adjustment consideration. It is primarily used to adjust the angle of attack of the blade with the ground. I think your solution to getting more height will be in a reconfiguration of your side links or lower links. Options would be 1) changing the lower drag link connection point at the blade arm as I did (but may not work with your quick hitch, 2) changing the attachment point of the side link on the drag link (and in your case lengthening the check chains), or 3) shortening the side (lift) links. The latter could/may be accomplished by replacing the fixed side link with an adjustable one if in fact you don't have two adjustable side links already.

 

[stuart]

Redirt. Both of my Lift Links are adjustable and they are adjusted all the way to make them shorter already. This did double my lift height from 5" to 10". The Lift link on the right side facing the back of the tractor has an adjustment that you can make w/o unhooking the Link itself. The Left side Lift Link must be unhooked and then can be (and was) shortened (by screwing it in further) and then reattached.
I can purchase DIFFERENT Lift Links that will be shorter or have adjustments to make them shorter than the ones currently on the tractor. So # 2 and 3 in your reply are still on the table as possibilities.
I am trying to understand #1 and am not certain that this is even possible for my setup. Perhaps a little explanation OR a photo would help. Thanks.
I will let you know what I come up with when I try # 2 but it will be a week or so before I get back there to do it.

 

[Leejohn]

I had to do this for my rake. It looks like its about the only thing that well work, it's what RedDirt is saying. Also doesn't cost much and all your other stuff well not change. I know your pins aren't the same as mine are, but I think you could come up with something. Hope this gives you a ideal how it might be done.

 

[stuart]

Yes I see now. I guess you attach the 3 point arms to the lower pins and the center link to the lower pin also giving you higher lift.
Correct?

 

[RedDirt]

Stuart,
Leejohn has got it. On mine I cut off the pin bracket that was horizontal and facing the tractor (like his OEM) then rewelded it facing down. If you did like Leejohn (bolted an add-on plate), or cut and rewelded the bracket at 45 degrees perhaps your quick hitch could still work.

Once you get it worked out make sure you fully raise, lower, tilt raise, tilt lower the blade and look for binding points. Put it in every possible position and look. I missed one binding point and slightly bent my top link due to the geometry reconfiguration. Luckily I was able to straighten it, chase the turnbuckle treads, and salvaged it.

Hey, I like the way your "fixed" length side link is actually adjustable! I may look into making that modification on my fixed link. Sometimes I want more tilt for ditching than my one adjustable link allows.

 

[Leejohn]

stuart

Did you get your blade clearance worked out yet?