Blade Clearance from Ground
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MtnViewRanch
Elite Member, Advertiser
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Unfortunately, I think that the low rear blade syndrome is common. Unless one has a hydraulic top link to use to raise the blade up quite a bit for transport. If no hydraulic top link, then either remake the hitch mounts to allow for a higher lifting or live with the low blade height for transport. There have been a few members here that have complained of the same height problem. It hinders the effectiveness of the blade to have a manual top link collapsed for the added height in transport and then to leave it collapsed for grading. The blade is usually in the wrong angle position to work properly with the top link collapsed all the way.
Unfortunately this is a problem that many have to deal with.
Unfortunately this is a problem that many have to deal with.
Thanks for helping me to realize that I may have "Low Blade Syndrome".
I have always wanted a hydraulic center link so maybe it is time for an addition to my tractor.
I can get by with 10" of ground clearance but will have to crefully choose my path of travel in a couple of places.
I am still thinking I can raise my height high enough by swapping the Lift Arms and placing them in the forward holes on the Draft Links, getting a longer set of anti-sway links. It looks like it will give me a few more inches of lift. Any reason why the Anti-sway links cannot be attached behind the lift arms on the draft link??
I have always wanted a hydraulic center link so maybe it is time for an addition to my tractor.
I can get by with 10" of ground clearance but will have to crefully choose my path of travel in a couple of places.
I am still thinking I can raise my height high enough by swapping the Lift Arms and placing them in the forward holes on the Draft Links, getting a longer set of anti-sway links. It looks like it will give me a few more inches of lift. Any reason why the Anti-sway links cannot be attached behind the lift arms on the draft link??
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JDGreenGrass
Veteran Member
From the side profile of your tractor it is showing that your top link can be adjusted significantly.
When the blade is engaged with the ground your lift arms and the attachment should be relatively flat.
Looks to me like you've got plenty of adjustment.
What's the question.??
Also, in the first photo, your arms look do not look to be level with one another. One is significantly lower than the other.
When the blade is engaged with the ground your lift arms and the attachment should be relatively flat.
Looks to me like you've got plenty of adjustment.
What's the question.??
Also, in the first photo, your arms look do not look to be level with one another. One is significantly lower than the other.
Leejohn
Elite Member
Looks like a 50 to 75hp blade on a small tractor. And doesn't help with small turf tires. Re do the top link. You well not be able to get the main beam to run level, give a little on that and the back well be higher.
JD GreenGrass; There is still adjustment to the top link you are correct and I can raise it higher and that is one way to solve the problem. But it may create another issue.
The photo with the 2 arms at different heights demonstrate that I can get additional height by moving both lift arms to the away position from the tractor on the Draft link (arm). In the photo ONLY ONE of the link arms (the closer one) is at the away position while the other is in the factory position. That is why they appear at different heights.
As I explained however, in this position, my anti-sway links are too short and will have to be replaced with longer ones (like the ones on a 4700). But each 2 part anti-sway link is 100$ from JD.
I am planning on just using some chain as an anti-sway replacement. 17" length should do the trick on each side.
This way I will not have to tighten the top link any further and I can still attach and release implements from the quick hitch without any more adjustments to the top link.
Leejohn; Yes you are correct. Large Blade on small tractor w/turf tires. I wanted Tilt,Angle and Offset and could not find it on a smaller blade. I think I can make this all work in its current configuration with new Anti-sway links and moving both lift arms to the rear position on the draft links.
THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR YOUR INPUT;
Update to follow in a week or two
The photo with the 2 arms at different heights demonstrate that I can get additional height by moving both lift arms to the away position from the tractor on the Draft link (arm). In the photo ONLY ONE of the link arms (the closer one) is at the away position while the other is in the factory position. That is why they appear at different heights.
As I explained however, in this position, my anti-sway links are too short and will have to be replaced with longer ones (like the ones on a 4700). But each 2 part anti-sway link is 100$ from JD.
I am planning on just using some chain as an anti-sway replacement. 17" length should do the trick on each side.
This way I will not have to tighten the top link any further and I can still attach and release implements from the quick hitch without any more adjustments to the top link.
Leejohn; Yes you are correct. Large Blade on small tractor w/turf tires. I wanted Tilt,Angle and Offset and could not find it on a smaller blade. I think I can make this all work in its current configuration with new Anti-sway links and moving both lift arms to the rear position on the draft links.
THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR YOUR INPUT;
Update to follow in a week or two
RedDirt
Gold Member
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- Northern Idaho
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- Kubota BX23, Wards 16HP HST Garden Tractor, (previous) D2 Logging Cat
On my KK blade the tabs that connect to the draft arms pointed foward toward the tractor. I had 8" blade ground clearance. I cut them off and reattached them pointing down and increased clearance to 17"+.
See here for a link. There is also a link in the first post of this thread to a discussion that lead me to this fix.
See here for a link. There is also a link in the first post of this thread to a discussion that lead me to this fix.
Gizmo; Sorry but the tractor is 150 miles from here and my next trip isn't scheduled for 10 days. I have NO INTERNET CONNECTION AT THAT LOCATION.
Red Dirt; I am trying to understand what you mean by "Rotate the 3 point hitch arms pin tabs downward to increase lift height."
Can you take a shot at explaining it to me?
Looking at the post I was wondering if I would get greater lift height depending on where I attached the center link. I moved it from the center hole to the top hole but now I am wondering if the lowest hole will give me the most lift.
Red Dirt; I am trying to understand what you mean by "Rotate the 3 point hitch arms pin tabs downward to increase lift height."
Can you take a shot at explaining it to me?
Looking at the post I was wondering if I would get greater lift height depending on where I attached the center link. I moved it from the center hole to the top hole but now I am wondering if the lowest hole will give me the most lift.
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MtnViewRanch
Elite Member, Advertiser
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- Mar 19, 2005
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- 10,641
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- Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,
Reddirt is saying to take the clevis hitch where your quick hitch connects to the implement for the lower 3pt arms and cut the clevis off and re-weld it on at the bottom. Turning the clevises 90 degrees downward. I don't think that that will work for you though if you want to be able to use your quick hitch with your rear blade. He posted a link to what he did showing what worked for him. Post # 28 where HERE is highlighted. Click HERE and you will see a picture of what he did.