Snow Attachments Blower or plow. Which is best?

[green raider]

must admit:using rear mount blower is hard on my neck.green raider

 

[vtsnowedin]

the only people who could think a blade is better than a blower, have not used a blower yet.

No a front mounted, on the loader arms, with power angle from the third function is better for clearing long drives or roads. Much faster and easy on the neck. You can go right along in a mid gear up and back and be back in bed in an hour. The blower guys have their days of course like breaking out roads that have a full winters snow packed into them or moving snow banks back after a big drifting event but most days a front blade is faster hence better.

 

[Boondox]

the only people who could think a blade is better than a blower, have not used a blower yet.

It depends on your conditions. Here in the Green Mtns of northern VT we get a lot of snow, but it builds up gradually for the most part. None of that lake effect stuff. In 20+ years of clearing our quarter mile of dirt road, I've wished for a blower just twice. Typically when I plow there is less than 5-6 inches and I simply angle the blade (love my remotes!) and drive forward in mid range.

 

[Wild Bill the 2nd]

You mentioned issues with snow rolling off the wrong side of plow when loaded up. Have you looked into adding wings to the plow? They make a world of difference.

I thought I made a big mistake spending the money on the Curtis plow for my RTV after first using it. Was nice to plow going forward but was narrower than the back blade on my tractor and snow just spilled over unless I only took half a blade width at a time.

Got some cheap $200 wings off of eBay and modified them to fit the small moldboard. Takes about half the time now. Couldn't be happier. When the piles build up I grab the tractor an push them back with the FEL.

Pics of the mod are at the link below.

 

[green raider]

when the wind is blowing even 3-4 inches of snow can turn into 2-3 foot drifts.Piles up fast.After years of pushing,the blower makes life easier.greenaxe.

 

[oosik]

As you can see, different strokes for different folks. When I worked, if the snow was really deep - which it almost never was - I would get up at 2am and clear the driveway(mile long, gravel). Now that I'm retired - who cares, I've got nowhere to go, no time table. Besides, in the 30+ years here and since all my vehicles are 4WD - there has only been one time that "getting out" might have been questionable. That was the ONLY time the snow has ever drifted.

If I lived where we got a lot of snow and/or drifting and I had to be to work every day - I think a front mounted hydraulically driven blower or a blade would be about the best. On a mile long gravel drive, such as mine, a blower that requires going in reverse is only exciting/fun for about the first hour. After three plus hours, as mine would take, all the fun was gone and your stiff neck/shoulders were all I was thinking about. And trying to remember if I still had some JD to ease the pain when I finished.

 

[hutchman]

I have supplied the hydraulics and helped on a few different units. Very few tractors have the hydraulic capacity to drive a blower. Most would need to have a pto driven power pack built. All the ones I have been involved with have had the pto driven unit. CJ

Manual says my rear remotes will do 8-9gpm

 

[vtsnowedin]

Manual says my rear remotes will do 8-9gpm

That is nowhere near enough.

 

[hutchman]

That is nowhere near enough.

The largest flow Prince PTO pump I can find is 21GPM. If that isn't big enough, I guess pulley size or planetary speed gears would need to be used. It would be a balancing act to get the right speed AND torque. I know I'd have to use an external system because I think I read somewhere that it would require a lot more hydraulic fluid than the tractor can hold in it's internal system in order to keep the fluid temp down.

 

[vtsnowedin]

The largest flow Prince PTO pump I can find is 21GPM. If that isn't big enough, I guess pulley size or planetary speed gears would need to be used. It would be a balancing act to get the right speed AND torque. I know I'd have to use an external system because I think I read somewhere that it would require a lot more hydraulic fluid than the tractor can hold in it's internal system in order to keep the fluid temp down.

Here is a blower that needs 15 to 20 GPM so that might make a match. There are several threads here where people have gone through the process. PTO pump on the back with hydraulic tank on 3PH for counter weight and hoses run along the loader arms.
72" Loftness Skid Steer Hydraulic Snow Blower Model 721ES / 721EM

 

[RickB]

the only people who could think a blade is better than a blower, have not used a blower yet.

That would be your opinion. I have 4 ways to move snow mounted on 2 tractors. The blower is nice to have, but in my yard is used only when needed, as a next to last resort. The only thing used less often for snow is the FEL. Front and rear mount blades clear 100% of the snow events here. The blower is used every few years to clear back the banks and piles after multiple accumulations

 

[hutchman]

A friend has a MK Martin SB60 for sale I've had my eye one for a while ... it's practically new. I kind of had thoughts on getting it and converting it to use on FEL but it's 60" and my tractor is 66-68" wide so I don't know if it would be too small.

We don't get lots of snow but every few years we will get a 'blizzard' that dumps a foot or so of snow. Hasn't been a problem at the house in the city ... have a 22" snow blower but the new house with 1/4 mile drive would be another story. From experience ... you have to catch it just right to use the blower ... if it gets too wet and heavy it is almost useless. Won't throw very far. Chute freezes up and its fun to clear out. I'm sure its the same with a tractor snow blower just with the pain factor turned up some. It's not super high on my priority list but I do want to get one to add to my "snow weapons" stash.

 

[PILOON]

One option that is easy on the pocket book.
Conventional rear blower and a dash mounted camera system.
My 7" screen and camera set me back less than $100.
Built in guide lines also help.
Mounting the camera high avoids any snow interference and cold does not affect the system.

 

[PILOON]

I guess I could start a new thread about this (not trying to hijack) but has anyone converted a rear 3pt. blower you have to drive backwards with to hydro with a skid steer mount and then use it on the front? I see used PTO blowers come up for sale and I often wonder if you have fabrication tools how hard it would be to convert to something that can be used on the FEL.

Few years back I did just that except I removed the FEL and added ears to pin onto my FEL lift arms.
Blower was 48" and I installed a 16HP Wisconsin with electric starter.

System worked great until I discovered a forgotten old car starter that totally destroyed the auger and gear box.
Being a used blower I did not know that the previous owner never greased things hence the sheer bolts were useless.

 

[leonz]

I'm getting ready to buy a Kubota B2650. Trying to figure out if I want to buy a snow blower for it. I already have a 42 HP with an 8 foot blade. This works very well but is time consuming. Does the snow blower work well with this tractor and will it save time moving snow in a wide area? With the blade it is back and forth many times as the snow falls to the side. When it's below zero I want to be done fast! I have 3 long driveways to clear.

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You have had many, many good examples and relevent examples of what is required
with snow removal AND the reminder that like politics ALL AND I MEAN ALL snow removal is local.


If you have not emptied your wallet yet. I hope not anyway, and I hope that if you
have the three day waiting for the retraction of a sale period has not passed I will
try to help you as we all have had issues in this discussion.


SO much depends on the following IN any examination of the purchase of a mule and
the attachments used on the mule.

1. ballast and chains are must for any snow removal job unless you have a very large mule in your possession as most all have loaded tires and chains as a rule.

2. If you have a power frame size in mind already-
are you going to mow with it too?

You must keep in mind that a hydrostatic tractor is already behind the
8 ball with inherent power loss from the heat created by the hydraulic
system which also operates the implements through the drive train .

Geared mules do not have this issue as most have a very low gear ratio for mounted implements and the Mid Mount and Rear Power Take Off if they are equiped with both.

It may be much more economical for you to purchase a used row crop tractor and a new rear mount snow blower for the following reasons:

1. swivel seat
2. many already have all weather cabs
3. the row crop tractors are taller at the seat
and have a higher groun clearance.
4. many have all weather cabs already and
have been very well taken care of even with
high hours on the clock because they have been used
for row crop work at low speeds.
a. Higher speeds are for road travel with row crop tractors.
5. service is availalable locally.
6. parts are easily obtainable.
7. larger frame row crop tractors are easier to work on.
8. buying a used row crop tractor will let you buy a new wider rear mount snow caster
which will let you clear the driveways in two passes.

NOW you have to understand that front mounts will be limited in snow clearing capacity
simply due to the poor design with open cross augers and smaller 3-4 blade impellers.

The majority of front mounts have a center drive system that uses a worm gear that rotates the impeller and through this shaft rotates a spiral gear that in turn rotates a spur gear that then rotates the two halves of the open cross auger. This is how the majority of belt drive front mounts are set up courtesy of RAD in Canada.

The design is a less costly way to do things and works.
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Many users have front and rear mounts both mounted on the same mule and use them for years the same way to solve issues with snow in all conditions.

Many users simply buy a wider rear mount and make thier first pass and then make half cuts at a faster pace BECAUSE the rear mount will have no issues clearing it.

I wish that I could have afforded mule with arear mount But I ended up with a lawn tractor with a snowblower as an afterthought to reach "joe consumer" The front mounts of today are nothing at all like the IH Cub Cadet from 1968 that were single stage units with a small V belt drive off the crank pulley connected to a bevel spur gear that rotated the cross auger at high speed and torque with an end mounted chain drive WHICH NEVER FAILED ME.

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A neighbor bought a BX2350 with a front mount, chains, and a good cab so she could
clear her long driveway in her shortsleeves and she loved it.

The snow we deal with is heavy and wet and they use too much salt on the roads here
which makes the job that much worse creating ice dams which are tough on a cheap
snow caster like mine and they make ice dams by using too much salt..

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Its your money and you will not know what a mistake you made until you are
out there for hours clearing snow.

The front mounts also have a much lower ground clearance so keep that in mind.

You will have plenty of ground clearance with rear mont snow caster and it will be
much more efficient in clearing snow as the impeller is larger in diameter and operates at
540 RPM as compared to a front mount with the smaller impeller that operates at a higher RPM (2000+)with a reverser and reduction geared chain drive in most cases.


BUT if you buy a small BX 2350 iwith a cab and chains if you want a kubota with a good rear mount like a Pronovost P 620 with a wider cut and good HID rear work lights you will be ahead of the game as you will be comfortable and much less tired.

 

[ruffdog]

For most snows I just use the rear blade. It is much faster and doesn't require the higher RPM's to operate correctly. I have areas I can push the snow and is mostly level. Turfs and no extra weight has worked fine. I have only used the blower a few times in several years...no problems with its effectiveness.

 

[CJONE]

Manual says my rear remotes will do 8-9gpm

So that would be about 13HP. Depending on the size of the blower that will effect the needed HP. I will usually shoot for 15-20GPM at 2500PSI. CJ

 

[hutchman]

So that would be about 13HP. Depending on the size of the blower that will effect the needed HP. I will usually shoot for 15-20GPM at 2500PSI. CJ

I looked up the specs. on that MK Martin SB60 I mentioned and they recommend 20HP. I'm really tempted to get it as it's a good price, my only reservation is it's 60" wide and my tractor is about 68" wide. The SB68 would probably be better since it is 68" wide (and requires 30HP). Is my thinking wrong that the blower should be as wide as the tractor or am I thinking with 'back blade' logic? Anyone running a blower smaller than the width of the tractor?

 

[sandalwood]

Blower should be as wide as the tractor and preferably slightly wider if hp permits.

In snow only a couple inches deep, tractor tires will simply compact snow missed by a blower that is too narrow.

When snow is more than 2 feet deep, narrow blower may actually impede forward movement or contribute to getting "stuck" in deep snow.

The narrow blower also can make clearing edges of the driveway problematic because tires have to ride up into snow bank.

 

[E3A]

I looked up the specs. on that MK Martin SB60 I mentioned and they recommend 20HP. I'm really tempted to get it as it's a good price, my only reservation is it's 60" wide and my tractor is about 68" wide. The SB68 would probably be better since it is 68" wide (and requires 30HP). Is my thinking wrong that the blower should be as wide as the tractor or am I thinking with 'back blade' logic? Anyone running a blower smaller than the width of the tractor?

Not sure if you're locked in on a certain brand - but when I was shopping for mine I was surprised how much required HP variation there was between different manufacturers. I ended up going with a 60" Allied/Farm King. It calls for more PTO HP than I have, but the next smaller size would've put me in the same dilemma you're facing about tire width. The 1st storm I did with my blower was 24" of snow and it handled it with ease. Having HST also helps ease into big drifts or banks at my own pace.