EdKing
Platinum Member
I would agree with Jerry. The toplink is on upside down, probably for shipping purposes. The lower pins should point outwards.
bottom plow newbie help
- Thread starter SmokyMtnMan
- Start date
- Views: 5695
PaulInMi
Silver Member
I would agree, something has gone terribly wrong on your plow. I had to assemble the one I bought from TSC(I've since sold it so I can't send you a picture of what is supposed to look like).
Your toplink is upsidedown or wrong all together and it looks like you are missing a lift pin, as someone else mentioned.
Talke it back, and have them make it right.
Good luck.
Paul
Your toplink is upsidedown or wrong all together and it looks like you are missing a lift pin, as someone else mentioned.
Talke it back, and have them make it right.
Good luck.
Paul
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,445
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
Now that you know that you just need to flip the top link frame to the top, notice that there are three holes for the right hand lift arm pin. I believe these three holes (choices) will let you select the position of the plow behind your tractor, so when the right tractor tire is in the furrow, you will turn (roll over) the first cut into that furrow. That is also the reason these 3 holes are lower than the pin on the left side (depth of the furrow). Hope you have the right side lift pin.
OP
SmokyMtnMan
Silver Member
Got the lift pin in my tractor cab. Just got it to compare to others for bush hog, blade, etc. I haven't ever used one with threads on it so i was going crazy trying to figure out which side of pin was on inside. !!!!....since I couldn't make sense out of it otherwise.
I think i can re-assemble ok but for some reason, I really think I should take it back just to show them how good their help is there. And maybe make a point that someone should have pointed this out. Of course some of you are probably saying I should have figured it out before I left with it. But anyway, I'm new and I'll take my lumps. Guess I can take the front end loader and somehow get it back in bed of truck. One man farming is not fun!
thatnks for the help guys, and I was wondering about the 3 holes on one side. That was helpful in last post.
I think i can re-assemble ok but for some reason, I really think I should take it back just to show them how good their help is there. And maybe make a point that someone should have pointed this out. Of course some of you are probably saying I should have figured it out before I left with it. But anyway, I'm new and I'll take my lumps. Guess I can take the front end loader and somehow get it back in bed of truck. One man farming is not fun!
thatnks for the help guys, and I was wondering about the 3 holes on one side. That was helpful in last post.
PaulInMi
Silver Member
If you have a chain you should be able to wrap it around your bucket and the plow and lift it into your truck. I agree that you should take it back and talk to them about it. Don't feel bad about not knowing before you left the store, you learn as you go/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif.
Paul
Paul
DDT
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2000
- Messages
- 953
- Location
- Clay Center, Kansas
- Tractor
- Kubota M6040/cab, BX25D, RTVX900
SmokyMtnMan
What size it it 14" or 12" shears?
What was $ amout?
What size it it 14" or 12" shears?
What was $ amout?
bigben37660
New member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2002
- Messages
- 9
you need to turn it around, it is upside down, i would call TSC and tell them what's on your mind. Ive had bad experience with them folks. Doesnt seem like anyone knows anything now.
kyoders
Silver Member
Don,
Did you go to the one in Asheville? I've had bad service from them several times now. If I ask a question about something they don't know (or don't want to bother answering), the pat answer is "we don't carry anything like that", even though the online catalog says they do. I was so fed up with them I drove an extra 45 minutes to the one in Spartanburg just to avoid having to deal with them. If you go back to give them a piece of your mind, give them a piece of mine, too.
Kevin
Did you go to the one in Asheville? I've had bad service from them several times now. If I ask a question about something they don't know (or don't want to bother answering), the pat answer is "we don't carry anything like that", even though the online catalog says they do. I was so fed up with them I drove an extra 45 minutes to the one in Spartanburg just to avoid having to deal with them. If you go back to give them a piece of your mind, give them a piece of mine, too.
Kevin
OP
SmokyMtnMan
Silver Member
absolutely, Asheville store. I had 3 guys standing there at the cash register telling me the KK tillers were all made in Alabama and I had talked to KK mfg, myself and they told me they were made in Ohio. Also told me that the yellow KK tillers which were 60" were of better quality than the red 72" which is not true of course. The only reason they're yellow painted is because they were originally made for Quality svc stores and not for TSC, then TSC bought them out.
They act is if the world is coming to an end when they have to help you load something in truck, too.
I found the Statesville and Hickory stores to be almost like a different chain they were so knowledgeable and helpful compared to Asheville stores.
oh......and that is a 14 pt plow and it is definitely made by KK
They act is if the world is coming to an end when they have to help you load something in truck, too.
I found the Statesville and Hickory stores to be almost like a different chain they were so knowledgeable and helpful compared to Asheville stores.
oh......and that is a 14 pt plow and it is definitely made by KK
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,445
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
<font color=blue>But anyway, I'm new and I'll take my lumps.<font color=black>
They (at the store) probably are the same way - new, and will take their lumps. I wouldn't bother with all the work taking it back. Not much to be gained in my way of thinking. I would be more anxious to get it mounted and try plowing with it, after you get it assembled right.
Your first attempt at plowing, even with a plow that is already adjusted, will be frustrating for a newbie, at best. It took all the patience I could muster the first time I had to set up a 2-bottom plow my first time (and that was after I did a lot of plowing with ones already adjusted).
The first pass you make will not have a furrow to drop the right-side wheels into, so the plow won't do very well. The second pass will be more realistic when you have a furrow to drop the right-side wheels into.
The plow may not pull itself into the ground, if the top link is not adjusted to the right length, or it may try to dive too deep if not adjusted. If you don't have draft control on your 3pt, keeping the plow at the right depth may be a source of frustration. Because, if the plow drops too deep, you will lose traction and cause the plow to go deeper as the spinning wheels dig deeper. Raising the 3pt arms will be necessary to gain traction, which causes the wheels to come up, causing the plow to come out of the ground. Depth control keeps track of the load on the plow and raises it when the load gets to the high side, and lowers it when the load is relieved (by raising it). Its an internal automatic control through a mechanical linkage. Your tractor may or may not have it. Usually you can tell if it does if the top link connection at the tractor has a heavy spring connected to it.
I don't mention this to discourage you, but just as an advance warning in case this is a totally new experience. Plowing is great satisfaction when the plow is adjusted right, the ground is the right moisture, and all the debris on top gets buried underneath. Be patient and have fun.
If it gets too confusing, maybe a neighbor (farmer) is available to give you an expert hand.
They (at the store) probably are the same way - new, and will take their lumps. I wouldn't bother with all the work taking it back. Not much to be gained in my way of thinking. I would be more anxious to get it mounted and try plowing with it, after you get it assembled right.
Your first attempt at plowing, even with a plow that is already adjusted, will be frustrating for a newbie, at best. It took all the patience I could muster the first time I had to set up a 2-bottom plow my first time (and that was after I did a lot of plowing with ones already adjusted).
The first pass you make will not have a furrow to drop the right-side wheels into, so the plow won't do very well. The second pass will be more realistic when you have a furrow to drop the right-side wheels into.
The plow may not pull itself into the ground, if the top link is not adjusted to the right length, or it may try to dive too deep if not adjusted. If you don't have draft control on your 3pt, keeping the plow at the right depth may be a source of frustration. Because, if the plow drops too deep, you will lose traction and cause the plow to go deeper as the spinning wheels dig deeper. Raising the 3pt arms will be necessary to gain traction, which causes the wheels to come up, causing the plow to come out of the ground. Depth control keeps track of the load on the plow and raises it when the load gets to the high side, and lowers it when the load is relieved (by raising it). Its an internal automatic control through a mechanical linkage. Your tractor may or may not have it. Usually you can tell if it does if the top link connection at the tractor has a heavy spring connected to it.
I don't mention this to discourage you, but just as an advance warning in case this is a totally new experience. Plowing is great satisfaction when the plow is adjusted right, the ground is the right moisture, and all the debris on top gets buried underneath. Be patient and have fun.
If it gets too confusing, maybe a neighbor (farmer) is available to give you an expert hand.