Box Blade as Rear Ballast

[ytechie]

I've read a lot of posts about people using a box blade as their rear ballast.

I got a quote from the local dealer for a ballast box for my BX2660 for $225. I see they have a 48" box blade at Fleet Farm for $479 48 Inch XB Box Blade By King Kutter - Mills Fleet Farm. The ballast box would total ~500lbs with weight put in it. The box blad says it's ~300lbs.

I only have minor uses for the box blade right now, but I'm wondering if it's still a smarter purchase than buying a dumb weight with no other uses. Advice is welcome.

Other questions:
* Can you lock the teeth of a box blade "up"?
* Can the teeth be used to break of soil for digging? (I realize it's not going to be as effective as a tiller)
* Is the box blade enough weight, or can I put a little weight on top of it?

 

[k0ua]

I've read a lot of posts about people using a box blade as their rear ballast.

I got a quote from the local dealer for a ballast box for my BX2660 for $225. I see they have a 48" box blade at Fleet Farm for $479 48 Inch XB Box Blade By King Kutter - Mills Fleet Farm. The ballast box would total ~500lbs with weight put in it. The box blad says it's ~300lbs.

I only have minor uses for the box blade right now, but I'm wondering if it's still a smarter purchase than buying a dumb weight with no other uses. Advice is welcome.

Other questions:
* Can you lock the teeth of a box blade "up"?Yes in most cases or reverse them so they stick up.
* Can the teeth be used to break of soil for digging? (I realize it's not going to be as effective as a tiller) Yes, they are often used for this.
* Is the box blade enough weight, or can I put a little weight on top of it?

doubtfull that it will be enough but will be a help, You need to look at your manual to see what it suggests for rear ballast for loader work. Keep in mind that the ballast box is shorter, and when working in close quarters is less likely you will hit something than the box blade..If you don't have close quarters work then the blade would not be a problem. sure you could add some weight on top. You could also just make a ballast box yourself for less money.

James K0UA

 

[TripleR]

We use an off brand LMC box blade on our BX2660 and also have rear wheel weights and that works fine. I am going to add weight to the box blade I use on my L5030.

You can raise the teeth up or even flip them over and we use ours to break the ground up for better digging with the FEL.

 

[Jeff F.]

I use my box blade (KK from Fleet Farm) as ballast all winter. I do have a 70 lb weight I set on it. I also welded a receiver on it. The teeth have 3 settings and are removable. I have a hydrolic top link which enables me to tilt the box blade. I do use the teeth to break up ground before tilling. I think it is one of the basic tractor requirements for me on my property.

 

[gwdixon]

In my opinion a box blade is not nearly enough weight for ballast (depending on what you are lifting).

Since I use forks for moving large tree trunks it is imperative to have enough ballast. My measure is to have enough ballast so that the hydraulics stall (relief valve opens) before the rear wheels come off of the ground. A box blade won't do this.

Rather than buy a ballast box it may be wise to buy rear forks or a carry-all. They are not that expensive and have multiple uses. Simply build a box on top of a pallet and fill it with whatever is available - even dirt. Or you can stack sacks of concrete, concrete blocks, etc. on a pallet.

The box blade's rippers can be pinned so they don't dig when using the blade. They can even be mounted upside down to stick up with most implements.

The rippers are great tools for breaking up the ground. It usually takes several passes to get the soil well worked up. I do it every spring in the garden before hitting it with the rototiller. Then the rototiller goes through the soil very efficiently - no jumping or bucking.

You could hang weights on the box blade. Just figure out a way to secure them. The problem here is that the box blade usually extends beyond the tire tracks on both sides. That makes maneuvering in tight spots an issue. A ballast box or carry-all is much more compact.

Edit: (Jeez, a bunch of overlapping posts - look at the post times. Sorry for duplicate info.)

 

[Jeff F.]

Jeez, a bunch of overlapping posts - look at the post times. Sorry for duplicate info.)


Ah yes Saturday morning... Coffee and TBN.:thumbsup:

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

One of my first recommendations for anyone with a FEL and will do more than just mow grass with their tractor. The BB is a very versatile tool and can be the counterweight for the FEL for a BX or B tractor, probably even an L with additional weight like setting cheap bags of Sakrete on it or even water filled buckets or whatever.
I can't see paying for a weight box that does nothing but add weight. Just one mans opinion.

 

[Deere Dude]

A Box Blade is a nice tool to have, but maybe not heavy enough. I put a bar across mine with an extra 400# (est) of weight lifting discs and this works great when I'm in a big lawn or a field or open area.

A ballast box can't be beat for being compact when maneuvering around things or just parking it in a shed with other things around. Ballast boxes aren't that expensive and a little concrete and some field stones will make your tractoring a lot more enjoyable that a monster box blade hanging out there.

I can't count all the trees I have that have their bark ripped off about 2-1/2 feet off the ground and it's not from a ballast box, but a box blade. Every time I go near a car with a box blade on it or a garage wall or anything important it takes all my concentration. One little accident with the box blade will cost more than a ballast box will cost by a long shot.

 

[k0ua]

You know I have never understood the line of thinking about Ballast Boxes that they are "stupid weights" that "don't do anything useful like an implement does." I have heard it a hundred times... yada yada yada.

Well they do a couple of things: 1: They help protect your life by keeping your tractor on all 4 tires, and lessen the chance of your shiny new tractor squishing you. And it helps keep those annoying deep scratches and gashes out of your tractor sheet metal if you turn it over from lack of proper ballast. You know when you do that other newbie mistake that almost all newbies do, get a nice bucket full of a heavy material and run around with the loader bucket up high so you can turn your nice new tractor over easier. 2: It keeps you from tearing heck out of all the things around you, like maybe your storage buildings, or the side of your house, or maybe your wifes car door A nice long implement can work as ballast too, but I guarantee you, unless you work in a field, sooner or later you are going to hit something with it. So yeah they are "dumb stupid weights" that just sit there quietly and work for you. Just saying...

James K0UA

 

[Go Wings]

Fill the tires and be done with it.