Can someone explain how the a box blade works and what it is used for? I'm new to tractors and need to know weather to get a rear blade or box blade. I will be smoothing out a MX track that has ruts in some areas. What are the advantages of both? Thanks for the help to a newbie.....
Box Blade Question
- Thread starter L3130
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scesnick
Veteran Member
I would go with the box blade for sure. I live up a 2.5 mile dirt road and I always use mine to leval out/smooth out the road. Not to mention if you have some hardpack you can lower the scarifiers and dig that up as well and then smooth it out. . A simple rear blade will not be able to do that.
I would have to say a box blade will do everything a rear blade can do and then alot of things that the rear blade can not do.
I would have to say a box blade will do everything a rear blade can do and then alot of things that the rear blade can not do.
knute_m
Gold Member
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- Down to my lovable little red Mahindra with FEL, and backhoe.
Although both a rear blade and a box blade can be used for leveling ground, there is a big difference in how they do it.
They both excel at certain tasks, but can be awful for other tasks. For instance, a rear blade does a reasonable job with snow -- mostly backward, but for snows up to 6 or 8 inches, it is usable in the forward position. A box blade isn't good for more than just a few inches of snow.
A rear blade just pulls dirt. On most tractors, it can be angled and positioned a lot differently than a box blade. Much of the dirt that is accumulated in front of the blade slips past one end or the other of the blade. Certainly some dirt slips under the low spots of the blade.
A box blade is just that. It is a box with grader blades. One grader blade faces forward. It scrapes. The other blade faces backward. It is used for smoothing or filling if you are pushing backward. Very little dirt escapes from either side, so a lot more is available for filling pot holes and ruts.
It also has "scarafiers" in front of the front blade. These are real nasty heavy duty teeth that can be set to dig into the ground in front of the scraper blade to loosen the earth. These teeth can be adjusted to dig deep, or to never touch the ground. You can move and level a lot of ground with a box blade.
On most tractors, there is no down pressure on the 3-point hitch. Down pressure is determined by the weight of the implement. This isn't exact, but a rear blade usually weighs about half what the same width box blade weighs.
I do most of my driveway grooming with a rear blade. But, come spring time after pushing a lot of snow (and gravel) off the road, or after very heavy rains, the box blade gets put to work pulling the gravel back to the road, filling in the ruts, and cleaning out the ditches.
For your use, it sure sounds like a box blade would do a lot more for you than a rear blade.
They both excel at certain tasks, but can be awful for other tasks. For instance, a rear blade does a reasonable job with snow -- mostly backward, but for snows up to 6 or 8 inches, it is usable in the forward position. A box blade isn't good for more than just a few inches of snow.
A rear blade just pulls dirt. On most tractors, it can be angled and positioned a lot differently than a box blade. Much of the dirt that is accumulated in front of the blade slips past one end or the other of the blade. Certainly some dirt slips under the low spots of the blade.
A box blade is just that. It is a box with grader blades. One grader blade faces forward. It scrapes. The other blade faces backward. It is used for smoothing or filling if you are pushing backward. Very little dirt escapes from either side, so a lot more is available for filling pot holes and ruts.
It also has "scarafiers" in front of the front blade. These are real nasty heavy duty teeth that can be set to dig into the ground in front of the scraper blade to loosen the earth. These teeth can be adjusted to dig deep, or to never touch the ground. You can move and level a lot of ground with a box blade.
On most tractors, there is no down pressure on the 3-point hitch. Down pressure is determined by the weight of the implement. This isn't exact, but a rear blade usually weighs about half what the same width box blade weighs.
I do most of my driveway grooming with a rear blade. But, come spring time after pushing a lot of snow (and gravel) off the road, or after very heavy rains, the box blade gets put to work pulling the gravel back to the road, filling in the ruts, and cleaning out the ditches.
For your use, it sure sounds like a box blade would do a lot more for you than a rear blade.
BattalionChief
Member
Being a former MX rider, and understanding the use of a box blade, I would agree that you want to use a box blade..
You want to make the track a little "soft" and the box blade will do that.. you would drop the scarifiers and then drag the box blade around... This would create a smooth, flat surface that is soft and some what "cushioned."
Box blade for sure.. (for your purpose)
You want to make the track a little "soft" and the box blade will do that.. you would drop the scarifiers and then drag the box blade around... This would create a smooth, flat surface that is soft and some what "cushioned."
Box blade for sure.. (for your purpose)
Slamfire
Veteran Member
The implement should be sized to fit the tractor, both in horsepower required to pull it, and the width of the rear tires.
DavidPerry
Bronze Member
Whatever you choose, get one with the capture pin style of attaching to the lower arms. Ground engaging equipment that uses pins like you find on a rotary cutter don't last long before bending.
Jarrett
Silver Member
L3130 said:
I would go with a 72". That's what I'm looking to get for my 3130. That price seems high unless it a heavy duty. The one I want is a Woods GB72 and I think it runs around $700-$750. It is just a standard duty, but I had the 60" version and I found it to built quite strong. It has the captured pins like a previous poster mentioned.
BattalionChief
Member
I would also go with the 72" box blade.. As Jarrett said, the price you quoted seems REAL high.. I have seen good 6ft blades here in Central Texas from $350 up.. Tractor Supply has one for $416. Also, if you will be using it on the MX track, you shouldn't need a super duty blade as you will be grooming dirt that has been "loosened" before and doesn't contain rocks, tree roots, etc.. The track will be "easy" work for your box blade.