Box Scraper Box scraper for hard pack dirt/gravel road

[airbiscuit]

Here's what I use for my 1/2 mile road.

Or this ..

Having a reasonable base, a crown in the road and a ditch or swales for water to go makes a big difference.

 

[Taters525]

Didn't realize they made lps that heavy....neighbor has one but it just bounces around with the scarifiers down. As for ditches and crown that is a definite. I live in western Washington and we get a lot of rain....biggest problem has been the water not running off and then freezing. Made the road like mashed potatoes.....

 

[JRobyn]

I'm another LPGS fan. We have a total of about 3/4 mile of road with river rock base topped with an inch or so of crusher-run gravel. I use the Land Pride GS1572. GS15 Series Grading Scrapers | Land Pride

Plenty heavy for my needs. I use it with a 40HP L4330.

If you build your own, you want to be able to vary the actual blade height relative to the skids from maybe 3/4" below to 3/4" above. This is so you can adjust the depth of cut both overall and side-to-side for a little crown. I set mine about 5/8" below on the right side and 1/4" above on the left.

 

[Taters525]

I use my box scraper as much for moving dirt etc. as road maintenance and have TnT so my preference is: HR35 & HRL35 Series Box Scrapers | Land Pride

On the hr35 box scrapers it mentions a hydraulic back gate or blade. Not quite understanding what they mean or the purpose of it.

 

[RNeumann]

I use my box scraper as much for moving dirt etc. as road maintenance and have TnT so my preference is: HR35 & HRL35 Series Box Scrapers | Land Pride

On the hr35 box scrapers it mentions a hydraulic back gate or blade. Not quite understanding what they mean or the purpose of it.

I watched an EA video on the hinged rear blade and they said for 99% of folks the hinge is not needed. The only advantage would be if you were trying to make very deep cut going forward the rear blade would hinge up and out of the way.

 

[Piston]

I have been keeping my hinged rear blade in the fixed position, and using the rear blade as a sort of gauge wheel by adjusting the length of my toplink and getting all the weight on the back blade to pack down the soil better.

 

[Piston]

I have been keeping my hinged rear blade in the fixed position, and using the rear blade as a sort of gauge wheel by adjusting the length of my toplink and getting all the weight on the back blade to pack down the soil better. View attachment 498017View attachment 498017

 

[olPete]

I'm another LPGS fan. We have a total of about 3/4 mile of road with river rock base topped with an inch or so of crusher-run gravel. I use the Land Pride GS1572. GS15 Series Grading Scrapers | Land Pride

Plenty heavy for my needs. I use it with a 40HP L4330.

If you build your own, you want to be able to vary the actual blade height relative to the skids from maybe 3/4" below to 3/4" above. This is so you can adjust the depth of cut both overall and side-to-side for a little crown. I set mine about 5/8" below on the right side and 1/4" above on the left.

Thanks for the recipe, Jay. That's the bit I was after!

 

[jenkinsph]

A land plane grader blade is an easy item to build your self if you can weld. Depending on material cost you may save some money as a DIY project. Rear blades with the curved mold boards would be difficult to construct so not as good a DIY project.

Here are two lpgs that I built.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Thanks for the recipe, Jay. That's the bit I was after!

I think you will find that there is no magic recipe for the blade placement on a Land Plane for road work. There have been lots and lots of various designs on here over the years and they all seem to work well. While adjustable blades may ( or may not ) be a benefit they add much complexity to the build so it is a trade off that is hard to make w/o experience. The most important design factor by far is weight. If you have enough weight you can set the aggressiveness of the blades with your top link adjustment.

Go back and look at all my pictures. That work was all done with fixed blades, not angled, and 3/4" below the skids. It would be wrong for me to say that that is the best design but as you can see it works might fine. I have seen photos of others work with different blade configurations that work mighty fine also. Look at some of Steve's (jenkinsph) work for instance, his blades are flush with the skids. I think you learn to work with what ever you have. Just my two cents.



gg