Box Scraper

[Jim in ICT]

Land Pride is a quality product. Also keeps the Kansas economy rolling!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian - I've definitely been looking at your website to get a Top and Tilt. As soon as Portland melts a little, I was going to do some measurements on my tractor and see about getting an order started. I'm still trying to determine what valve setup to get. JD used to make a 4th and 5th SCV kit for these, but of course it's no longer around, and pricing out the core bits of the kit prices it above what I could get in un-official green. On the other hand the levers would fit right in to existing brackets.

How big (weight, hp, etc...) is the tractor you use your 65" 800lb scraper? Having no clue on these, and knowing my tractor is only around 35hp, I'm concerned about too large a blade not being able to grab much dirt before I can't move it well.

I'm also surprised that no one seems to carry anything above a 500lb scraper in a 6' width. Am I just shopping the wrong tractor places? The used market in the northwest seems pretty devoid of boxes right now. I've been watching CL for a few weeks now and hardly anything over 4'.

32HP, HST and weighs 5000lbs. ALL tires are loaded on both of the pictured tractors. 75HP tractor weighs 12,000lbs.

Keep in mind, the heavier box blades cost some $$$. Anywhere from $1500-$4000. The ROBB that I have recommended should be around $2000.

Pictures are of a 5 valve set I did for a 4400.

 

[RNeumann]

I'm seeing all these pics of loaded box scrapers and it has me again wondering how anyone gets anything done without a hydraulic top link! I shorten the top link to cut high spots and then extend the top link to deposit the loaded box evenly and smoothly in low spots.

I learned with hydraulics so I assume I'm spoiled. Lots of better men than I!

 

[jenkinsph]

I'm seeing all these pics of loaded box scrapers and it has me again wondering how anyone gets anything done without a hydraulic top link! I shorten the top link to cut high spots and then extend the top link to deposit the loaded box evenly and smoothly in low spots.

I learned with hydraulics so I assume I'm spoiled. Lots of better men than I!

I use the top and tilt to make adjustments frequently but use the rockshaft to control grade for most work. I use to let the box ride on the rear facing blade for height control. The last few years I have left the tailgate unpinned which allows faster cutting down to grade. Using the rockshaft adjustment allows more accurate control of the cut and fill. Once on grade back dragging a fel or dressing up with a land plane grader scraper does a better job of smoothing than a box blade.

 

[s219]

I'm seeing all these pics of loaded box scrapers and it has me again wondering how anyone gets anything done without a hydraulic top link! I shorten the top link to cut high spots and then extend the top link to deposit the loaded box evenly and smoothly in low spots.

I learned with hydraulics so I assume I'm spoiled. Lots of better men than I!

On my last tractor, I could reach and adjust the manual top link from the seat, which is how I learned. On my current tractor, that's not even close to possible, so I added a hydraulic top link and later hydraulic side link. Really nice to have.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'm seeing all these pics of loaded box scrapers and it has me again wondering how anyone gets anything done without a hydraulic top link! I shorten the top link to cut high spots and then extend the top link to deposit the loaded box evenly and smoothly in low spots.

I learned with hydraulics so I assume I'm spoiled. Lots of better men than I!

A couple of things here.

First, all these pictures in this thread show roll over box blades.(ROBB) I have to assume that you have NEVER used a ROBB. I hydraulic top link does NOTHING to facilitate the use of a ROBB.

Second, the blue and red tractors have complete top & tilt sets on them, so not sure where you get all these loaded box blades with no hydraulic top links? :confused3:

 

[Thomas]

I'm looking to purchase a 6' box scraper. That should cover the rear of my John Deere 4500. What I don't know is what level I might want (light, medium, heavy-duty), and asking the sales reps hasn't been that helpful. Around here (greater Portland, OR area) most seem to stock the Land Pride BB1272, which is about 400lbs I believe. That seems a little light to me, as the advice I've read online seems to indicate that you want 100lbs/ft or up.

However, the salesmen have been telling me that the BB12 series covers the needs of most people. I've got dirt work in paddocks, road cutting/making in some clay soil, and gravel regrading on existing driveways that needs doing, but never having used one not really sure how heavy I want to be.

I've found a few sources that have blades closer to 500lbs, which may be worth the extra $100-$200 of those scrapers.

Looking for other people's thoughts.

..........................
If I,I would go heavy,you never know what hidden under the surface or what projects in the future.

 

[Catman8]

I just bought a Box Blade and have no experiance using it yet, and when I was at a rental yard I noticed how warn down this one was. So when does a box blade become unusable, and if they get ground down this much why don't they have replaceable edges or hard facing on the bottoms.

 

[Xfaxman]

This six footer with a hinged rear blade, weighs 647 pounds and has a lever to raise or lower the scarifiers.

Got it at an auction about five years ago.

 

[TripleR]

I just bought a Box Blade and have no experiance using it yet, and when I was at a rental yard I noticed how warn down this one was. So when does a box blade become unusable, and if they get ground down this much why don't they have replaceable edges or hard facing on the bottoms.

View attachment 494890

That is not worn down as much as you might think, some are "high back" to begin with like mine.




HR35 & HRL35 Series Box Scrapers | Land Pride