Brake Drain Plug

/ Brake Drain Plug #1  

cnsJohn

Bronze Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2012
Messages
50
Location
Lafayette, TN
Tractor
Jinma 354
There is a small drain plug on the bottom side of the brake housing. What is it for? Should oil poor out when it is removed?

Thank you in advance for your advise.

JohnJ
 
/ Brake Drain Plug #2  
The brake compartment should be dry. I am guessing the drain is to let out water? There is a seal inboard of the brake housing, and if that failed, you would see some oil leakage into the brake compartment from the gearbox...
 
/ Brake Drain Plug
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thank you for the prompt reply. Your reply confirmed by dreaded suspecion...ugh. i've removed the plug a couple of times and quickly put it back in, thinking i was loosing some valuable oil. The brakes on that side are useless.

Anyone have suggestions for parts that should be changed while im in there? The tractor only has 200 hours on it, so the plates should be decent, but how about other parts?
 
/ Brake Drain Plug #4  
I have a 304 with exactly same failure, but brakes still work very good.
I first noticed a little oil on rubber cap at brake rod. I opened drain & about 5 to 8 oz. oil came out.
Have since drained brake 2 more times & very little oil, 2or3 oz dripped out.
155 hrs on tractor; Brakes work fine so I am hoping only seal leak fix/replace is required
Part # for the inner seal & o-ring in parts manual,
Seal: JB/T 2600-1980 size mm PD55x75x12
O-Ring: GB 3452.1-1992 size mm 33.5x3.55

Check out thread: Saturday Repair Jinma 354 Brakes
Also: ranchandsupply has a great pictorial on 300 series brakes
 
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/ Brake Drain Plug
  • Thread Starter
#5  
KoonHunter,

Thank you for the reply and information. I had planned to replace the seals and o-ring, but wanted to be sure I didn't miss any other brake parts that might commonly go out.

JohnJ
 
/ Brake Drain Plug
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Part # for the inner seal & o-ring in parts manual,
Seal: JB/T 2600-1980 size mm PD55x75x12
O-Ring: GB 3452.1-1992 size mm 33.5x3.55
Does anyone know if it's possible to replace these seals and o-ring, without removing the fender?
 
/ Brake Drain Plug #7  
JohnJ,
I have my seals & O-Rings on hand & will tackle replacement soon.
Just by looking, I first thought removing the 2 long U-Bolts (ROPS) on mine would get enough access, BUT,
Now, It looks like the floor pan & fender probably will come off. (8 Bolts Fender & ROPS), 6 Bolts Pan)
The brake housing has to be almost completely removed, & I'm not sure the activation rod mechanism can come off unless clear.
If you find out differently, please advise.
David
 
/ Brake Drain Plug
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Thank you for the reply. I pretty much came to the same conclusion last night. If it's not raining, I plan to attempt the repair this evening. I'll probably remove the wheel as well. Seems like a lot of work for a simple repair. But good brakes are an absolute necessity, as I mow many steep hills. Brakes allow me to shift between reverse and low without racing down the hill in neutral (been there done that).

JohnJ
 
/ Brake Drain Plug #9  
OK, Keep me posted as how replace/repair goes.
I'm not be able to do mine until 1st of next week.
David
 
/ Brake Drain Plug
  • Thread Starter
#10  
The repair went a planned. it required (for me) about 4 hours. The only real surprises was the 8mm allen style bolts that hold the housing to the tractor, and the amout of oil loss during the repair. Get our your hex drivers for your rachet to make the removal easier. Also not show in my manual was a c-clamp holding the spacer in place. I also lost about 1.5 gallon of 80/90, so have some on hand or catch what you have in a clean container. I only had to remove the fender to do the repair, but I've got my wheels spaced our to the third spacing.

Re-adjusting the brakes to stop equally took another hour...what a pain.

Good luck with your repair.

JohnJ
 
/ Brake Drain Plug #11  
Glad you got it done JohnJ
Did you replace the 2 seals & O-ring I posted in reply # 4 ?
Were the friction plates OK ?
Did you lose all the fluid when you removed 1st outside brake housing or when you removed seal ?
Thanks, David
 
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/ Brake Drain Plug #12  
Did seal replace right side Sunday, took me about 5/6 hours (lt was hot)
Went pretty good until l saw that l had forgotten the lock ring, lucky l saw it before l had put everything back together
The only regret is l did not have new gaskets, so l made new ones
The friction plates looked like new & were just a little oil stained on the bottom,

David
 
/ Brake Drain Plug
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Great. I'm glad you got it done. My brakes work really well now. Still, last evening I cut my 354 down from a tree (the story of stupid I guess) and need to assess any damage now. I know I have a crumpled fender and a flat tire for sure, hopefully not much else.

JohnJ
 
/ Brake Drain Plug #15  
Great. I'm glad you got it done. My brakes work really well now. Still, last evening I cut my 354 down from a tree (the story of stupid I guess) and need to assess any damage now. I know I have a crumpled fender and a flat tire for sure, hopefully not much else.

JohnJ

I have to hear this story.

Did it start with "hold my beer and watch this"?

Chris
 
/ Brake Drain Plug #16  
I am quite interested in hearing the story as well. You certainly have my attention so far!
 
/ Brake Drain Plug
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Turns out it's really not difficult to tree a tractor. Here's a quick instruction, if anyone would like to try.

I was cutting down a steep hill (50 degree or so) thru 6' tall brush, mostly briars, heading down a track between a some trees. The path took me down the hill at two angles, the downhill slope and a 15 to 20 degree slope to the right. Just as I got to the bottom of my planned run and was ready to turn out after passing a final tree on my right, the ground turned to rubble. Someone has dozed up a bunch of stumps and such, now hidden by brush and briars. The tractor was on top to the rubble with a large pile directly underneath, raising the left rear wheel (the high side) off the ground slightly. And there was a distinct teeter-tottering going on as my left front tire suddenly went flat. I thought it best to cut my losses and try to turn out to the right which was now on an even greater rightward slant. The turn was slightly before the plan so that last tree on the right (a 7 inch mimosa) was being smashed down by the right rear tire as I began the turn. I figured this would have to work, since I saw few other options. Well as the tree bent down one of its branches hung between the hood and the right side of the FEL, which made the tree base pull more to its left, causing the base to become wedged between the right rear wheel and the fender. To make matters worse, another limb grabbed the FEL joy stick and pinned it back, raising the bucket to its fullest height, while the tractor was still halfway into the turn on the slope. A bit of puckering going on now. Fortunately the tree keep the tractor mostly upright.

In the end, I had to saw the tree down. First the limbs holding the joy stick (so I could lower the bucket), then the tree trunk which had the tractor treed. Of course I had to remove the bush hog which was uphill of the tractor and sitting on the afore mentioned rubble. I also had to remove the right lift arm so I could get in with a bow saw to cut the base down. So the end result, the flat tire will likely need a new tube, the right fender will need to be broken away from the tire, the right rear wheel has two small curls in the metal near the tire bead, the joy stick is bent slightly, and the FEL is a bit more sluggish then it was before (still need to assess that more, as well as the hog which is still on the hillside).

All's well that ends well.....just wish it would end :)
 
/ Brake Drain Plug #18  
Well, Well, JohnJ, Glad you didn't get hurt, Hope Tractor is OK,
Although you had a worse wreck than me, (Steering Wheel Thread)
I hung up on a large unseen stump in a 8'/9' high briar patch & had to get the 304 sideways to get off, a little hairy, as I thought it might turn over
Looks like your damage is fixable
Be sure to check under carriage, I broke the welds off the clutch/brake rod & 3 or 4 grease fittings
David
 
/ Brake Drain Plug
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Thanks for the advice. I've stranded it on a log before as well. For that one I was able to put another log under the FEL and push down enough to pull the first one out. I've got to get this brush under control enough to see all the stumps, logs, and holes.
 
/ Brake Drain Plug
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Anyone have a source where I can buy 7.5x16 lug tires?
 

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