brake pads 2012 f-150

[dodge man]

You can't get at the hold downs, the lever assembly or anything without pulling the axles. All you can see of the e brake is the surface of the shoes, no way to access anything on the shoes...Mike

Normally, and I'm sure it varies by vehicle, there is a rubber plug that comes out and a star wheel you turn to back off the rear brakes shoes. It can be hard to find and hard to get at. My sons 2004 GTO had the drum brake inside the disc but didn't have the star wheel and traditional drum setup so it probably varies by make and year.

 

[BeeferMan]

My main complaint with the drum-in-rotor parking brake (it's *not* an emergency brake, btw ) is that the backing plate is now a crappy piece of sheet metal, not a substantial piece of metal. I've had to replace the backing plates on my '06 F350 at about 50K miles - because the small parking brake shoes are still mounted to the backing plate. It is a plow truck so the salt takes its tool, but still - I've never had to replace backing plates that weren't mechanically damaged. And that's a pain, you do have to pull the axles and hub.

 

[LD1]

Strange that you've had that problem. I've never used napa brakes, but my understanding is that they are rebranded wagners which have an excellent reputation. Well that is their "premium" line anyway, were you using their cheapest ones? In that case they are probably no better/ possibly worse than any other store brand.

I find napa's premium line of just about any product to be of pretty high quality. (Moog suspension parts, wagner brakes, wix filters...) The more I do, the more I am staying away from autozone, and find myself at napa more and more. More money yes, but just seems like better stuff. Actually I am spending more time on rockauto, where I know exactly what brand I am buying, but sometimes I just can't wait to have something shipped to me. I will go to autozone however for wheel bearings as they are usually timken.

Yep, only napa (silver line) I think have ever squeaked. Every brake/rotor job I have done and got parts from oriley, autozone, or advance....never an issue. And between my own, friends, and family, I have probably done 25-30 brake jobs in the last 10 years.

My reason for going with the cheapest pads, as I mentioned, has alot to do with just not wanting to wait any longer than that to get in there and take things appart. Make sure slides are greased, and give it a general once-over. cheap pads and cheap rotors are a good match. And seem to wear out pretty evenly. Since I can get ~60k miles on my cars (which are cheap to do anyway), I got no complaints.

As to NAPA gold being good stuff.....what I consider good stuff has to be taken case by case. While MOOG is typically good for suspension stuff, that is not the case with 03 and up dodge trucks. Especially the ball joints. Read any of the diesel or offroad truck forums and MOOG's on these trucks are to be avoided.

I guess what I am saying is, certain things I dont have a problem saving money and going cheap on. Sensors, brakes, light bulbs, coolant, etc. But things like bearings, filters, oil, etc I will but what I believe is the best.

 

[94BULLITT]

Napa brake parts are probably the best brake parts you can get at parts store for an OE replacement. A sqeuak on disk brakes is caused by a vibration. The pad should also be lubed everywhere it contacts the caliper. You should also lube behind the hardware on the caliper bracket to prevent it from rusting and causing the the pads to stick. Of coure the hardware gets lubed were the pad contacts it.

Napa claims they make their own brake pads. They have 20 some different pad formulations were their closest competitor has something like 12.

 

[94BULLITT]

As to NAPA gold being good stuff.....what I consider good stuff has to be taken case by case. While MOOG is typically good for suspension stuff, that is not the case with 03 and up dodge trucks. Especially the ball joints. Read any of the diesel or offroad truck forums and MOOG's on these trucks are to be avoided.

Napa chasis parts are not made by Moog.

 

[LD1]

Napa chasis parts are not made by Moog.

I didnt say they were, someone else did.

Point of my post is: What may be top of the line brand in 1 application, may not be the best choice for others. Weather thats NAPA, MOOG, Wagner, Raybestos, etc.

While others may have good luck with napa brakes, I have not. (and remember I am dealing with the cheap lines). When it comes to them, I'll take Duralast (not gold) pads and rotors from autozone which would cost me $145 for the front of my truck vs Duralast gold @ $226. Heck, I could even spend $68 for HD pads and $192ea for a raybestos rotor. Bringing the total to $450+ for a front brake job.

I just cannot justify spending that as I wouldnt see a proportional amount service life.

Same for oriley. Pads ranging from $22 up to $75 a set. And rotors from $40 to $85

And same thing at advance.

Again, never had any issues with Duralast (standard line) or the cheaper wearevers from advance.

 

[TheGoose]

The rotors supposedly were OK. They turned them. I initially only intended to get the front ones done but my mechanic said the back ones needed done as well.

 

[TheGoose]

OK I have an update to this thread and a few questions.

So my initial brake job turned out to be a disaster. I paid my mechanic to fix the brakes but somebody messed up and installed them wrong. Apparently on the front brakes there is a certain way that the brakes are installed. Two brakes have a little set of ears on them and two do not. The ears go on the inside. They put both ears on one wheel and no ears on the other wheel, which caused the brake to jam/stick. I took the truck back 3 times and they could not find the problem. Finally I did a quick Google search and one of the first things that popped up was the little ears being wrong. I knew immediately when I jacked the truck up and the drivers wheel would not 'free' spin that I had a problem. I ended up buying new brake pads and rotors for the front and everything is good again. As for my mechanic I took the brakes to him and showed him how they were installed backwards and he seemed genuinely embarrassed and refunded my money. I have known this guy for 20+ years and he's always treated me right but I think he's got one too many grease monkeys working for him not paying attention.

Now as for the other problem. The brakes squeal really bad when I put the truck in reverse. It's mostly on a cold start but it will do it when it's warm too. My wife who has much better hearing than I says it's coming from the back wheels. I took apart the wheel/brake assembly and everything looks good. I had these brakes replaced also but not the rotors. My question is should I go ahead and replace the rear rotors and pads or should I have them turned again? Is there anything else I should try first?

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm at 35,000 miles on my 2012 F-150 and I'm wondering how you guys know it's time to change the brakes? I've always done my own with every vehicle that I've owned before. Reading this thread has been very informative.

Thanks,
Eddie

 

[LD1]

There is a little metal tab that starts touching the rotor when there is about 1/16" or so of pad left. Makes a loud squeak so you know they are nearing the end of their life.

But I inspect mine frequently. Every oil change or so (bout 10k miles), I look at them. No need to remove them either. You can see the pad thickness through a little window in the back of the caliper