brakes

/ brakes #1  

alsmith

New member
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
6
I am new to tractors, so I have a question; I recently bought a Ford 3000 (1974?) tractor to do some bush hogging, and clean up some property I own... I have been using the tractor on and off for about for about one week. The tractor is in rough shape /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif, but it was all I wanted to spend...

Anyway, the brakes were chattering when I first used it, I tried to adjust the brakes because one seemed to be adjusted to tight. Well, after a while the brakes will not stop the tractor even on very little inclines.... Live in Virginia, lot of hills

Since I can't remove the tires and wheels (too heavy). I am at a lost! I read some of your stories and received a lot of information in doing so. Some say brakes on tractors are not so good, and others say they will skid the tires...

A little help getting me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.
 
/ brakes #2  
You should be able to push one brake and turn the tractor around that wheel. You also should be able to stop pretty quick. If you can't more than likely your brakes are shot. Any brakes on most any tractor if in good condition will skid the tires.
 
/ brakes
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks for the info, the guy I bought it from said the brakes were replaced but not adjusted..... I think I got took... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
/ brakes #4  
Very well could be. Most of those older tractors the brakes are not very good on and it's pretty pricey to replace them.
 
/ brakes #5  
<font color="blue"> Since I can't remove the tires and wheels (too heavy). I am at a lost! </font>

alsmith,

Just in case you don't realize this...

Tractor brakes are often inside the tractor, not at the wheel ends of the axles. Removing the tires would not help you find the brakes...

Being iniside the tractor itself, it becomes expensive replacing them as the tractor may have to be split to get access...
 
/ brakes
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks Bill for the heads up.

But these brakes are at the end of the axle shaft. You can adjust the clearance of the brake shoes to drum from an adjustment slot in the backer plate next to the wheels. So I am sure they are out near the wheel. Since I am a “do-it-yourself” kinda guy, I am trying to figure how to fix my brakes…

Al
 
/ brakes #7  
If you can jack up the axle on one side, you should be able chock the wheels first and remove one side by just having it off the ground, very little. Then have it close to something you can lean it against and then look at the brakes. You wouldn't be picking it up, and if you think you can't handle it ask a friend to help you do that. One can handle a lot of weight if he don't have to pick it up. To put it back on you only have to get one bolt started then you can jack it up or let it down slowly to get more started, till you have it back on.
 
/ brakes #8  
<font color="blue">But these brakes are at the end of the axle shaft. You can adjust the clearance of the brake shoes to drum from an adjustment slot in the backer plate next to the wheels. </font>

Al,

In that case you may be in better shape that it appeared. Easy enough to check and see if the shoes are relatively new...and the seller should know this too.

So perhaps he was telling the truth and they are pretty new and just need an adjustment... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
/ brakes #9  
While it doesn't sound like the case, you may want to check to see if the inside of your hubs are wet. If that is the case, you may have some leaky rear seals that have caused your brake shoes to get all wet. I had this problem with my 8n and was forced to perform the somewhat arduous (and at times, tedious task of removing the rear hub (had to heat mine up) to replace the rear seal (and ultimately, put in new, dry brake shoes).

If you do have this problem and take on the challenge of replacing the back seals... make sure you leave the nut on the hub while heating it up... if you don't, it will shoot off like a cannon and take out something like your knees /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif.... Good advice I received out on Yesterday's Tractors during my 8n days.
 
/ brakes
  • Thread Starter
#10  
EagleEye,

You may be on to something, At first the brakes were chattering away when I used them... As I stated before I am on hilly ground, so if working it off the flat, if the seals were bad, I could see fluid getting onto the brake linings and rendering them useless.

Thank you
Al
 
/ brakes #11  
I would recommend getting a manual for your tractor. I will be some of the best money you will spend on it if you do at least some of your own work.
 
/ brakes #12  
"Since I can't remove the tires and wheels (too heavy). I am at a loss"

If this is preventing you from getting to your brakes, you need to get over it and get those wheels off. Loosen the wheel lugs on one side and jack it up til there is no longer any weight on the wheel, remove the bolts/nuts and roll the wheel away, just like pushing a 600# motorcycle, don't let it fall over.
 
/ brakes #13  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Don't let it fall over )</font>

or you'll have one HECK of a time getting it back up again /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
/ brakes #14  
i had the same problem with old frod 2 n, the brakes just got dirty, some leakage, and rust, and they would not stop the tactor , even on a slight incline( how i ended up in the ditch) /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif try pulling the wheels off and cleaning the brakes, worked for me. know they are heavy but an extra pair of hands or a chain fall will allow u to do it. just be careful
 

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