Bridge question

   / Bridge question #21  
Thanks ! I was hoping you would say something other than poured concrete. Mine will be down in the woods a ways and I would like to avoid that. Side walk slabs is a good idea !

gg
Ine is 1/4 mile from the road. Just a timber path down to the bridge.

I enjoyed fabricating them.
 
   / Bridge question #22  
looks like a good thread!!
 
   / Bridge question #23  
There's been a couple bridge threads in the last six months or so. Usually they take off with lots of pics. This one is struggling a little.
 
   / Bridge question #24  
Temporary logging bridge is made from 6*6 side by side and through bolted the full width of the bridge.

I can not find the USFS design PDF. (Or was it a state....)
 
   / Bridge question #25  
One creek crossing I used railroad ballast stone then put in a few 6" PVC pipe about a foot down. Then 57 gravel over top. Creek goes through rock and pipe.
 
   / Bridge question #26  
There's been a couple bridge threads in the last six months or so. Usually they take off with lots of pics. This one is struggling a little.

This was almost a DIY, but the contractor building our house gave me a killer price. I had an engineer develop the drawings and specs with trucks in mind (fire truck, triaxle dump trucks, etc.). In 1989 the rebar was around $1,100 IIRC. The bore is 16' and the footers are something like 9' down. All poured reinforced concrete. All sorts of trucks and equipment have used it. 3 or 4 years after we moved in we had a crew pave the driveway, and about 5 years ago we had the blacktop repaired and topped.

As part of the whole site design, the creek had a big elbow that curved around the bridge location that was removed to compensate for the bridge being placed in the flood plain. The nice part is the bridge was built on dry land. We straightened the creek to pass under the bridge after the bridge was completed. The clump tree behind the bridge was on the bank of the creek.

Between 0 and 6 times a year the driveway looks like the second picture for a couple hours max each occurrence. If you look closely you can just make out the edges of the curbs on the bridge. As long as you can see the curbs, the water is only 6-8" deep at the lowest part of the driveway surface and safe to travel.

Side note - I buried concrete-encased conduits beneath the new creek location while it was still dry land. This provides for easier replacement of the municipal water line, cable, phone and power if needed . Digging across a creek is probably a lot more complicated nowadays.
 

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   / Bridge question #27  
That's a nice bridge.
And with no concerns of it ever giving out. I bet that is a relieving feeling.
 
   / Bridge question #28  
Chim, great looking bridge. Very professional!!!! I'm still uncertain about the internal structure? It's just rebar, no internal steel beams?
 
   / Bridge question #29  
Chim, great looking bridge. Very professional!!!! I'm still uncertain about the internal structure? It's just rebar, no internal steel beams?

Thanks. Once a year I clean it up. $1,100 bought a lot of rebar in '89:) I think the builder gave me a number of around $3K without excavation at the time. That's only $2K more than the rebar for all the concrete and labor. With the workload I had, his price was quickly accepted.

There are #6 bars on 6-1/2" centers running in the direction of travel and #5 on 12" centers crossing them. The #5 bars running across turn up into the curved curbs and the curbs have #6 bars running lengthwise. My guess is the 12" thick sides at the curbs act as cast concrete beams.

I had the excavator and painter working directly for me, and I did the electrical, plumbing, heating, alarm, central "suckuum" and misc. stuff. The house was looking a lot like a house till I jumped into the underground for the utilities because of the creek relocation. I guess Wifey hadn't pictured that much was going to happen in the dirt except for planting some grass, since the field we built in wasn't disturbed much between the time I mowed the brush down and a nearly complete house. She dropped by to check in one afternoon and was aghast at the open trenches and dirt piles. She asked what in the world was going on, and I told her it finally looks like a real jobsite.
 
   / Bridge question #30  
Temporary logging bridge is made from 6*6 side by side and through bolted the full width of the bridge.

I can not find the USFS design PDF. (Or was it a state....)

Here is one I have saved - Heavy duty though 16' span and holds a skidder plus the hitch. Build it in 4' wide panels or sections.

Screenshot (7).png

gg
 
   / Bridge question #31  
Two years ago i filed the building permit for a 60 ton bridge over a canal for a friend of mine, at the waterways council. Even though he will only use it to reach a pasture on the other side, they wanted a permit.

I calculated the load capacity of a prefab inverted T shaped retaining walk of 500 euro a piece, it could handle the vertical load by a margin of 5. Then i calculated we needed 4 IPE 400 beams, yet the demo contractor selling used I beams only wanted to sell all 9 of them, so he ended up putting them 6 inch apart and welding flat strip between them, lengthwise.
I took generic (worst case) footing ground pressure ratings for our area, and with the 2 by 4 yard footing of the cheap prefab retaining wall section, again exceeded the margin by far.

Water council agreed, so he built a bridge for 1000 euro bridgeheads, 2000 euro steel and 120 euro engineers fee 😅
 
   / Bridge question
  • Thread Starter
#32  
I emailed a wooden bridge co. and told them I wanted an 8'wide with 16'span bridge that would support 8000lbs
and they said I would need 6--6 x 12 SYP treated beams for this
 
   / Bridge question #33  
Loggers cut a road up over a hill in my woods at the bottom is a creek they never used a culvert just filled it in .the creek dries up in the summer well that fall when the rains started it washed out. It was about eight foot deep by ten foot across I bought a used culvert I layed it in the bottom and then started laying logs next to it with my grapple then threw in dirt then more logs then more dirt until it was at the desired height works really well and pretty safe to cross. The logs were pretty much just a filler it would of took a lot of dirt if it wasn't for the logs. Thanks Rick
 
   / Bridge question #34  
I live in irrigation country with water being delivered by canals. When a farmer want to cross the canal with his center pivot he has to install a bridge for every tower that crosses the canal. Some of the more simple effective bridges I have seen are just salvaged truck frames. They are already fastened together at the right width for traffic. They aren't hard to clean up. The frames can usually be bought for scrap prices which makes for a very reasonably priced bridge. It's not hard to make a nice looking bridge for very little outlay in time and money.
 
   / Bridge question #35  
I emailed a wooden bridge co. and told them I wanted an 8'wide with 16'span bridge that would support 8000lbs
and they said I would need 6--6 x 12 SYP treated beams for this

A friend bought a 8' fuel storage tank and cut the ends off and rolled it in the watershed. Seems to work for home use. I think he paid $500 for it. Then just add dirt for the run on.
 
   / Bridge question #36  
LOL, many DIY projects will be satisfactory as long as you can evade permits.

LOL, not me I have a professional opinion,
 

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