Broke a roller chain tonight, any suggestions for breaker tool

[Ehanson]

I see, looks like a pretty specialized tip on a punch to correctly "rivet" the pin.
Yes, I think a MasterLink would work just fine, as you say , the motorcycles do
not have a problem with it.

 

[Dave M7040]

I see, looks like a pretty specialized tip on a punch to correctly "rivet" the pin.
Yes, I think a MasterLink would work just fine, as you say , the motorcycles do
not have a problem with it.

To be clear, no non riveted master links on large bikes.

Dave M7040

 

[Patches]

I have a Rad, B74 blower, and it has a master link (bought it new at a local John Deere dealer)

 

[RickB]

I have a Rad, B74 blower, and it has a master link (bought it new at a local John Deere dealer)

This is TBN. There's little room for facts and practicality. We need pages of discussion, expensive specialized tools used for similar items used in different applications, and surely can't be tempted with a mundane solution like a $2.50 common roller chain connector link.

 

[Ford850]

This is TBN. There's little room for facts and practicality. We need pages of discussion, expensive specialized tools used for similar items used in different applications, and surely can't be tempted with a mundane solution like a $2.50 common roller chain connector link.

Rick - go get some coffee.

 

[aczlan]

Got a fist size rock stuck between the chain and sprocket on my snowblower tonight and broke the chain. I would have thought that the shear pin would have gone first but it didn't. Tractor Supply had the chain in stock (10' more than twice what I need). It's 60h chain and it came with a master link but I would rather rivet the chain back on. Does anyone have a good suggestion for a breaker (was looking at a Koch). I have a breaker for motorcycle chains that just isn't quite large enough but it will push the pins out then drive them back in. I assume that the Koch breaker will not push the pin back in since it's a different style. I wouldn't mind a riveting tool but have used a hammer to peen the end of the pin. Here's an image of the Koch breaker.
View attachment 498264

I have the "Tru-Pitch" versions of that for #40 and #60 chain and they work well. I got them at Tractor Supply, here is the #60 version: Tru-Pitch Chain Breaker, PE6 - For Life Out Here

Aaron Z

 

[FatTire]

This is TBN. There's little room for facts and practicality. We need pages of discussion, expensive specialized tools used for similar items used in different applications, and surely can't be tempted with a mundane solution like a $2.50 common roller chain connector link.

Ha ha!

 

[zzvyb6]

1) Convert it over to belt drive.

2) Better yet, add a hydraulic pump and reservoir and go with a torque motor. That way you can reverse the auger if it gets plugged.

3) Install a sensor from a corn chopper so it doesn't happen again. This won't work for rocks, but will help you with that lost piece of angle iron you dropped. Use the more expensive LED lights in case the incandescents burn out.

3) Buy a shovel and put all the rock-free snow in one place. Then dispatch it with the blower (now fixed).

4) It's really not a snow 'blower'. It's a 'pusher'. A real snow blower would have avoided attacking a rock. Get one with a V6 motor.

5) Get a flame thrower instead. (Notice I did not say flame pusher). Then you won't even need a chute.

6) Hire a neighbor kid at $100 an hour to sweep your driveway. Sounds expensive, but have you priced chrome drive chain lately?

7) Use plastic sprockets instead of steel ones. That way, the chain will live.

8) Get a real snow mover: buy a plow.

9) Have you wife operate the snow machinery. Maybe she's more observant (or better looking: that way the neighbor might want to come over to help out and get some coffee and Danish later).

10) And the number 10 best solution? Get a few extra master links and get some mileage on the 'blower' before Spring arrives. I have several master links on chains I run (balers and hay mowers). If the sprockets line up and have side clearances, there should not be any side rubbing. (If there is, use a fire wrench to burn away the excess shroud material, especially if its near a fuel tank).

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Back when I was motorcycle racing we would do it all the time. The metal clip on the master link would wear and break. Nothing like being miles from your truck doing a hare scramble and having to push your bike back because your master link filed. I don't see anything that should rub on the master and I have the clip on the opposite side as the auger so I'm going to leave it.

I even carry an extra on the poop spreader truck.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I never grind pins down. Just take a larger pin and knock it flush. Then a pin punch and knock it through.