Broke bolt dilemma -- HELP!

[IH3444]

I've encounter this before, but not in such a tight, and almost inacessable place. Usually once the head of the bolt has snapped off, the stress is removed, and the threaded remainder of the bolt with be able to be worked out with either a sharp punch, or chisel as you have tried. I would begin to soak the remainder of the bolt several times a day for at least a week, or longer with a high quality penatrating fluid. Either Kroil, or PC Blaster. I've done this before also. Before I go to work, spray it, and then just after I come home. I had a huge rear axle nut That would not budge once, even with a 4 foot breaker bar. After soaking it for a week, it turned off easy. Besure to remember to tap the area with a hammer for at least 30 seconds after applying the quality penetrator. This helps to work the pen. oil into the threads, and loosen the remaining threaded part of the bolt. I see that your room to work is extremely restricted, but before you go the arc welder rod route, and possibly weld some threads, I would try this possible solution first. Weld on the threads will garantee you'll never get the threaded part out. I wish you the best of luck, and I thought that these major PITA things only happen to me. The second thing I would try is to get a 3/16, or smaller cobalt drill to try and drill a small dimple, or pocket along the outer edge of the bolt, with a cheap Harbor Freight 90 degree drill. This will give you a point to which you can get the point of a centering punch to try and turn the bolt out. Besure to clean the area with a cheap spray such as WD40 of all drill chips. You will possible damage some threads, but with a new, high quality grade 8 bolt, I doubt this will have any effect on the holding power of the newly installed bolt. GOOD LUCK

 

[AntrimMan]

You could make a protector sleeve from a piece of 1/2 copper water supply before doing the welding thing. That will mostly protect the internal threads depending on how fussy you are in the preparation.

 

[IH3444]

Still risky even with a protective sleeve. One little weld arc splatter can made this more difficult.

 

[EddieWalker]

John,

Your situation is an extreme one that I've never seen before. Wish I knew the answer and could offer something that the others haven't already come up with.

Do you have a Matco or other high end tool dealer? Maybe they have some specialty tool for this? It's a long shot, but my only other tought is JB weld and allot of prayer.

Keep us posted, if it's happened to you,then it's gonna happen to somebody else.

Eddie

 

[hazmat]

Perhaps this will help Good luck.

from

Church Sign Generator

 

[SPYDERLK]

It must be obvious to some but I am totally confused by the pictures.

The 1st question that comes to my mind is "how long is the full bolt and would anew one angle into the hole?

If so, if you drilled, at what depth below the surface would the drill bit tip touch the remanent bolt.

Is there a straight shot radially away from the hole axis through which a 1" dia X 6"L handle could pass into an open area. If so, does this straight shot, and the spacial translation to the open area, exist at only one point along the extended hole axis, or for an extended length that could allow the handle to move in/out, toward/ awayfrom hole in a direction // to the hole axis .
If the latter, I have something that could allow you to work down the hole with a required head space of 1.5"minimum. It is set up for rt hand drilling and is capable of about 3/16" drill dia. Rotational power would be applied out in the open area.
larry

 

[laurencen]

If the bolt is not too tight what adout a dremel tool, they jave handsets with a 3/32 bit, it takes a wile but you can cut a slot in the bolt and remove using a screw driver, if you can geta angle drive drill in, drill the hole and use a easy out, a left hand thread also works, if the bolt is too tight to remove when the tap cuts the threads now get a left hand allen screw and thread into the hole, once it bottoms it should come out

 

[john_bud]

It must be obvious to some but I am totally confused by the pictures.

The 1st question that comes to my mind is "how long is the full bolt and would anew one angle into the hole?

IT's a 5/8 - 11 bolt about 3" long originally. Current remnant of the bolt is 2 and 15/16 long. Angle into the hole?? I don't get your meaning.

If so, if you drilled, at what depth below the surface would the drill bit tip touch the remanent bolt.

About 1/4" below the surface the remaining stuck part of the bolt resides.

Is there a straight shot radially away from the hole axis through which a 1" dia X 6"L handle could pass into an open area. If so, does this straight shot, and the spacial translation to the open area, exist at only one point along the extended hole axis, or for an extended length that could allow the handle to move in/out, toward/ awayfrom hole in a direction // to the hole axis .

I just knew I should have stayed awake in that geometry class....

The edge of the engine cradle that holds the isolation bushing is 6" from the inside edge. Arghh-- see picture

#5 is the rubber mounted isolator
#4 is a stud - my tractor has a 5/8-11 bolt in place of the stud

Where #5 is shown is where the engine is. The flange shown is 6" from the isolator when it is in it's correct hole.


I can remove the drag link and steering cylinder that are mounted directly below the 6" gap.

If the latter, I have something that could allow you to work down the hole with a required head space of 1.5"minimum. It is set up for rt hand drilling and is capable of about 3/16" drill dia. Rotational power would be applied out in the open area.
larry

So, Larry, what you got?

 

[schmism]

so is this true? that this hole lines up with what would be the head of the nut/bolt

if so whats in the way of useing that hole to work through?

 

[SPYDERLK]

Angle in-- [is there enuf headspace to get a new bolt of full length in]

Is the remanent just stuck in a NUT.

What I have is a 90 attachment that you drive with a drill. That way the drill stays out of the close in area and headroom rqmt plummets. The drill bits thread in to save the space of a chuck. Im not seeing why you need it tho unless the nut is captive.
larry