Broke bolt dilemma -- HELP!

[montejw]

Is there enough room for a 90* drill attachment and shorty bit? If you get a left hand bit, use that. Or try a righty, drill a hole and tap in an "easy out".

 

[AlanB]

If it helps, I can lend you an aviation right angle drill and bits. You would not want to buy one I can assure you but I can post you one and you could send it back after the job.

The Yard Store, Aircraft Tools & Aluminum

It will give you more clearance to work then most of what is being suggested.

Still, if it is that tight, it will be a bugger to get out at best.

I cannot see the pics on the computer I am on at the moment, BUT,

They make special weld through bolts. They are used in the automotive exhaust industry. Let me go find a couple links, easier then explaining it. Well, I cannot find them now, I thought it was Daytona Mig that had them, but I do not see them on their website.

You may also be able to weld on a pin with resistance welding.

I would look at it for a while before jumping in if you can, other thoughts and ideas may come to you as you study it, and look at it from different angles.

 

[3RRL]

John,
I would bite the bullet and take all that stuff off.
I don't know if you can even get in there with a right angle drill and then exert enough force to drill that stud anyway. Then you are stuck trying to get an easy out or left handed tap and screw in there. Same problem...you need enough room to exert force so they go in the drilled hole.

With that stuff out of the way, your work will be a lot more pleasant. It's tough enough to do a repair like that as it is. Sometimes what appears to be the easy way out ends up being more work after all. Who needs the extra aggravation (and cost if you buy a tool) from working in a confined space like that?
Rob-

 

[workinallthetime]

i have a right angle air drill and they used to get be left handed drill bits from the local parts house all the time, im pretty sure you could work it into position and drill. i think the idea of soaking the bolf for a few days before the removal id very important, ive got a can or 2 of heat riser penitrate you can use also. let me know, you know where i am

 

[CATMAN]

Here's one other thought about using the 90 degree drill and a left-handed drill bit. You can choose the correct lenght of drill bit, then slide bit into hole, then hold drill/chuck up to the bit and tighten the chuck onto the bit.

Sometimes when clearances are really tight and the broken bolt/piece is countersunk into a hole, this procedure provides some help.​

I, personally would try to find a way to hold a bit in the center of the hole if drilling is going to be an option. Predrill a round dowel(that fits in the hole) in the center. This OD of the dowel would just fit/slide into the area where the shank of the old bolt use to be. A wood dowel might be the easiest to find and probably serve the purpose for this function. The centering of your FIRST attempt to drill anything out, can be a real benefit IF you are unsuccessful and later(after you are forced to dissassemble more of the tractor) you find yourself trying to use bits, easyouts, taps, helicoils, etc. {I see this often on engine exhaust manifold studs into cylinder heads.} I believe harbor freight sells "transfer punches"(individually sized centering punch) but I think their max size is 1/2" diameter.

 

[john_bud]

so is this true? that this hole lines up with what would be the head of the nut/bolt

if so whats in the way of useing that hole to work through?

The hole does not line up. It is closer to the numeral 1 in the picture. Also, there are 2 holes symetric about the center line. There is also a 3/8 thick plate in the way that holds the hydraulic pump.

Is the remanent just stuck in a NUT.

No, the remanent is stuck in the engine block. No access to the back of the hole.

AlanB If it helps, I can lend you an aviation right angle drill and bits. You would not want to buy one I can assure you but I can post you one and you could send it back after the job.

AlanB - Thanks for the offer. I will be looking at right angle drills tomorrow - will let you know if there is room or not. I checked out the link. That looks like the tool for the job! If I can't find a reasonable one here, I will probably take you up on the offer. But, I am willing to buy a decent too as that's the way the tool box gets filled!

i have a right angle air drill and they used to get be left handed drill bits from the local parts house all the time, im pretty sure you could work it into position and drill. i think the idea of soaking the bolf for a few days before the removal id very important, ive got a can or 2 of heat riser penitrate you can use also. let me know, you know where i am

That's a good point - heat riser penetrant. I have to go right past the Chev dealer on my way to look at tools. I'll grab a can. Good to have some more on hand.

I, personally would try to find a way to hold a bit in the center of the hole if drilling is going to be an option. Predrill a round dowel(that fits in the hole) in the center. This OD of the dowel would just fit/slide into the area where the shank of the old bolt use to be. A wood dowel might be the easiest to find and probably serve the purpose for this function. The centering of your FIRST attempt to drill anything out, can be a real benefit IF you are unsuccessful and later(after you are forced to dissassemble more of the tractor) you find yourself trying to use bits, easyouts, taps, helicoils, etc. {I see this often on engine exhaust manifold studs into cylinder heads.} I believe harbor freight sells "transfer punches"(individually sized centering punch) but I think their max size is 1/2" diameter.

Catman, good point. I just got off the phone with a buddy who's dad is working to be a machinist. We should all have the energy to try and pick up a new skill set in our 70's! Anyway, he is going to make a centering bushing for me that is the same size as the bolt 5/8" and 1.25" long with a 1/4" hole in it. It will go into the hole in the isolater (#5 in the picture). Then I hope to be able to get a 90 degree drill up in there and drill a centered 1/4" hole. Left hand drill and potentially a left hand tap to put in a left hand bolt and tighten / loosen the works out. I just have to remove the drag link and the steering cylinder. I will be able to keep the hoses attached.

I looked at the stuff to remove and I think my estimate was low. The Backhoe has to come off or the tractor will be sitting with the nose in the air when other stuff comes off. That can be a slow or fast operation. It's been as little at 15 min to remove and over an hour just to get jacked up lined up, and close enough connect the hoses. The FEL has to come off too as it is on the frame rails and will put a lot of stress on them when the engine cradle is removed. It serves as the tie between the frame rails. Basically, there are MORE items to remove to get to this bolt than are removed to split the tractor! I also don't have a spot on concrete to do this and it is a LOT harder on grass.


I truely appreciate the suggestions on this one. Thanks guys!
jb

 

[Willl]

Is it broke flush with the block ?

Can you get the rubber bushing out ?

 

[chatme]

I must be missing something ? someone said use a drimel tool. that should work with a 1/2 cutter wheel. just cut a slot in the bolt and heat a screw driver and bend it to fit the slot and retemper the screw driver and twist it out. This will not work ?

 

[john_bud]

Will, It's not flush with the block. It's about 1/4" down the hole.

Chatme,
There isn't any room to get a dremel tool in there to cut a slot. It's in a real "bugger" of a spot!

jb

 

[BTDT]

so is this true? that this hole lines up with what would be the head of the nut/bolt

if so whats in the way of useing that hole to work through?

Can you drill an access hole in this frame to allow you a straight shot to the broken bolt? Might save a teardown.