Brush cutters

[Piston]

A heavy duty cutter is heavy in weight. A medium duty cutter is lighter in weight. The HP required the same for both of the same size cut. More strength and longevity for the heavier cutters in my experience. Still don't compromise the tractor for the cutter. Cutter's are a bit cheaper to replace.

Sort of.... However, the additional weight of the heavier machines does take a lot more to "spool up". Also, when you hit something HARD, like a large rock that you didn't see, and it slows the cutter considerably, it is a lot easier for the tractor to spool up a lighter weight (light duty) cutter, whereas sometimes with the heavier cutter it will come close to overwhelming the tractor when spooling it back up. I don't think the op would have too much of an issue, but the extra weight of the larger cutter's does make a difference.

 

[xring100]

Awesome I dont think you'll have any issues with the heavier models BB600X BH25 As your incontrol of pto engagement. Not sure I'd try the BB6000X though its darn near as heavy as my 7 footer.

 

[whistlepig]

Using the 5hp per foot rule and having 3525lb lift capacity on my three point hitch lifting a 1000lb cutter should fall into the safe category?! More involved than I thought it would be.

Interpolation doesn't work on this project. Mower weight on the three point is mower weight on the three point. What's to say a 3525# mower is not bad? Unless you have an argument against this.

 

[RoyJackson]

That's what I was hoping, the one thing I will be very careful with is driving to my plots. Going up my road is no problem but once I turn off my road onto the dirt road it can get a little rough. The dirt road is about 1/4 mile and with that kind of weight hanging off the back it will be slow going.

I think a 60" Woods Bushbull would do the job for you...unless you're cutting down trees, you don't need a heavy duty rotary cutter.

As far as transporting, rather then driving across the rough area with the cutter raised, you might want to consider towing the cutter. It's easier on the tractor and probably safer. I loosen up the top link and keep the 3PH raised high enough that the front end of the cutter can't dig in. The tail wheel bears some of the weight. Obviously, this is for fairly slow forward speed transport.

 

[Slickheadhunter]

Interpolation doesn't work on this project. Mower weight on the three point is mower weight on the three point. What's to say a 3525# mower is not bad? Unless you have an argument against this.

What I mean is if it's rated to hold 3525lbs of weight then 1000lbs should be light enough for the tractor to handle. Being as heavy as the tractor can handle safely.

Roy that's good advise, thanks.

 

[whistlepig]

Good luck with your brush cutter purchase.

 

[Slickheadhunter]

Thank you kind and considerate sir!

 

[whistlepig]

Good hunting to you

 

[bilrus61]

Do you have a loader on the tractor? Do you have weights on the front? In that case you should be fine with any 60" cutter you can find to put behind that tractor. I've had good luck with Landpride cutters. Less with Deere and Rhino.

A landpride 3660 is rated to cut 4" brush! As far as taking lots more to spool up a heavy mower I question that somewhat as most of the weight of a heavy mower is the frame/gearbox/deck thickness. They all run the same 1/2"x4" blades so the inertia should not be that much more to overcome on the heavier mowers. You turning bigger gears in the gearbox and maybe a bigger heavier blade pan/stump jumper under the deck but the blades will weigh the same. A 2660 Landpride is rated to 3 inch stuff and weighs 1000 pounds. Sould be perfect for what you want to do.

 

[RoyJackson]

Since the OP is new to tractors and rotary cutters...

A cutter is (IMHO) the most difficult implement to hook up. Getting the tractor aligned to the lower lift arms is difficult and shifting the cutter (using a lever of some sort) can be frustrating and usually results in using foul language as a persuader.
So, the easiest way out is to go with a quite hitch...and you might want to consider that before cutting the implement's drive shaft down to fit the tractor.

There are a lot of threads concerning the safety aspects of field mowing. If you haven't used a cutter, I'd suggest doing a TBN search.

 

[Slickheadhunter]

Since the OP is new to tractors and rotary cutters...

A cutter is (IMHO) the most difficult implement to hook up. Getting the tractor aligned to the lower lift arms is difficult and shifting the cutter (using a lever of some sort) can be frustrating and usually results in using foul language as a persuader.
So, the easiest way out is to go with a quite hitch...and you might want to consider that before cutting the implement's drive shaft down to fit the tractor.

There are a lot of threads concerning the safety aspects of field mowing. If you haven't used a cutter, I'd suggest doing a TBN search.

The 4025 is new, but not my first tractor, but you are correct in regard to the BH. I have a quick hitch and thats one reason im looking at the woods cutter. It makes hooking up my 700lb cultipacker a breeze.

Thank you all for the helpful responses.

 

[CowboyRon]

The 4025 is new, but not my first tractor, but you are correct in regard to the BH. I have a quick hitch and thats one reason im looking at the woods cutter. It makes hooking up my 700lb cultipacker a breeze.

Thank you all for the helpful responses.

We have a 4025 and it can handle a 6' cutter very well. I have a medium duty land pride.

 

[Piston]

The 4025 is new, but not my first tractor, but you are correct in regard to the BH. I have a quick hitch and thats one reason im looking at the woods cutter. It makes hooking up my 700lb cultipacker a breeze. Thank you all for the helpful responses.

Have you looked into the Brown units?

Rotary Cutters | Brown Manufacturing | 800-633-8909

 

[2458n]

I have done some bush hogging on the 4 inch stuff and find that the PTO shaft is the first thing you start replacing,and replacing. Cutting today with a 10 ft. Bush hog brand mower. Two wheels on the back always on the ground-front is held up by lower arms of tractor. 64 PTO tractor and nothing got away. Ran some lighter duty 6 ft. mowers and really had PTO shaft problems,two years ago with the same tractor.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

duplicate post. I don't know why.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Have you looked into the Brown units?

Rotary Cutters | Brown Manufacturing | 800-633-8909

I compared the 416 to Woods BB720X. Brown has 7 gauge steel and Woods, 10 gauge except Woods has 1/4" around its sides, and it is fully welded, whereas the Brown is stitch welded on the seams. The Brown does use a 130 hp gear box to Wood's 120 hp gearbox. But Wood's has an additional bash tube fully welded in around the back and offers chain deflectors as an option. A comparison between the 3pt of the 2 and Woods is beefier than Brown's 416.

On the other hand, if there is a dealer in your area a Brown can be had for less money than a Woods 720.

Without operating both side by side on the same equipment, for me, the Woods product looked as though it was more finished but both are very comparable and both can be ordered in fun colors.

That said, I have not had the opportunity to use my Woods 720 and it is sitting on my trailer right now.

 

[Ken45101]

I agree that a decent "medium duty" unit is all you need unless you are really taking on a lot of trees, etc. I've had a 6' medium duty Woods for 15 years on 40-45 pto hp tractors. Sometimes I will back over the bigger saplings, I won't drive the tractor over it! But for typical field and brush cutting, the medium duty units from Bush Hog, Woods, Landpride, etc. are fine.

The "heavy duty" cutters are a lot more weight and $$$. I don't see the need unless you are doing commercial work 40 hours/week.

The only problems I've had was when the front lip caught a low stump and flipped the cutter up....and then it crashed back down

I have not had to replace any shafts or anything else except the slip clutch plates, a normal $20 wear item.

I also have a medium duty 15' batwing Bush Hog on the bigger tractor. That is one heavy beast, I can't imagine what the heavy duty units are like!

 

[LouieJunior]

I have a medium duty Woods MD160 cutter that is nearly 20 years old. It has taken plenty of abuse behind my 40-50 HP CUTs. I have had whole trees wrapped around the blades at times. A few weeks ago I needed to change a carriage bolt on the stump jumper. From underneath, I was amazed how good it looked -- practically new! For small tractors, I think MD is as heavy as most will need. Most damage is done backing-up, so be mindful of this and your cutter will outlive your tractor like mine did.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Using the 5hp per foot rule and having 3525lb lift capacity on my three point hitch lifting a 1000lb cutter should fall into the safe category?! More involved than I thought it would be.

Reading all the posts Im not quite sure what is going on these days. The weights are crazy. I have a 127 Gyramor [5'] that was built by JD back around 1960. It weighs 600# and is rated for 4" trees backing up. Initially I used it with the 45ptohp JD2010 and have cut thousands of trees in the 4" range - and many, going forward only, in the 6 to 8" range. The slip clutch and gearbox have never needed work. Now, it enjoys an easy life of underpowered use on the L Kubs and our newly acquired 20 HP B9200.

... Going from the huge weights Im seeing for modern cutters my guess is crap steel is being employed inefficiently. This leaves a significant gap at the compact size where tufness w/o excessive weight poses an extreme value in utility.
larry

 

[Rmart30]

Land pride has some great products. I really like my 2660 cutter. A 18 series cutter should be great for what you are looking to do.
Rotary Cutters | Land Pride