Brush Hog Positioning

[SLOBuds]

Here in California we are getting close to spring so I attached my new(used) brush hog to make sure it works OK and to do a bit of practice. Quite an effort to attach that thing! But I guess you all are used to the process of muscling 900 pound implements onto 6000 pound tractors.

So anyway. I do not have Top and Tilt and would like to know how the brush hog should be adjusted on the top link. Is it best to set it level to the ground? Or best to have rear lower than front? Front lower than rear?

My brush hog has one rear wheel on a caster.

During 'practice' the cutter scalped a lot of dirt. I belive that was caused because my land is not even. But I was not sure that I had the adjustment right either.

Thanks

 

[bjcsc]

The front to back adjustment is not made with the toplink, but instead is a combination of how high you have the tailwheel set and the 3pt. The toplink should be adjusted so that it is slack. You want the toplink yoke ~ 45deg angle from horizontal. If you want to cut with minimum horsepower and rougher cut, adjust the tailwheel side higher than the front. If you want to really shred the material, adjust the tailwheel lower than the front (uses more power). If you think about it, it makes sense. With the tailwheel side adjusted lower, it cuts twice (higher cut in front and lower as the back gets there).

 

[3RRL]

What bjcsc said.
For general cutting I set the front an inch or so lower than the back. If you're land is uneven and you're cutting a lot of dirt, set the tail wheel a lot higher. Sometimes it's not important to cut real low anyway. You can lower the front a little more when you can get away with it without cutting dirt, but raise it again when the ground gets real uneven. You do that with your 3pt while you're cutting. Just watch for throwing rocks and limbs. Make sure no one is around when you're running that thing. Chain guards will help, but it's still dangerous to be around in case something gets airborne.

 

[gerard]

One thing you may want to look into is check chains. Without them you have two options. 1- Let the front ride on the skid shoes in the front which tears up the ground and cuts pretty low or 2- raise the front with the 3 ph which puts a lot of weight on the hitch apparatus. When you're bouncing around that multiplies the stress on the internal components of the 3 ph more than I like so I use check chains. These are two chains that attach from each lower 3 pt arm to the tractor near where the top link attaches. You adjust the travel by the number of links you use and they limit the downwars travel of the lower arms, effectively taking all the weight off the 3 ph component. Only cost about $20 and a cheap insurance policy IMHO

 

[RalphVa]

I set my brush hog down on a 1by4 board with castors at each end of the board (board is reinforced at the ends, and I have some "L" brackets on top to position the "hog" onto the board). Being able to move an implement makes all the difference in the world in getting it off and on. I've all my implements on castors or on 1 bys (long side parallel with tractor rear to front) if they'll slide easily on the 1bys (like my back blade).

You set the rear height of the hog with the tail wheel assembly. It probably has a bunch of difference holes to select from to put a bolt through. Set the front where you generally want to run it. Then position the tail wheel to get the rear 1 to 1 1/2" above the front. This is with the top link off.

Now, put the top link on or connect a slack chain between the tractor and top link point. On my "hog", it has about a 4" movable mechanism in the top link. I just adjust the top link to where this mechanism is in the middle of its travel.

Ralph

 

[john_bud]

Here's the basics and a bit more. (do all this with the top link OFF)

1) measure the distance from the bottom of the blade to the bottom of the cutter sides. Paint that on the top of the cutter so you don't forget.

2) adjust the rear wheel so the cutting height (blade to ground distance) is 1 to 1.5" higher than what you want. If you want a 5" cut (good number), set the rear wheel so the blade is at 6.5" above the ground. Side note: the grass and brush is cut with the leading edge of the mower. If there is no front to back rake (tilt) the tractor needs more power to cut. 1 to 1.5" is the normal range. Don't be afraid to experiment a bit, go wild, try 2".

3) Use the right side 3pt arm adjuster to level the cutter side to side. Use either a level on level ground or a ruler on the driveway. Double check it. Move the tractor so it points the other way and recheck. Measure the right side adjuster length. Now paint that number on the mower deck. Now you can always set the cutter side to side level with just a ruler.

4) use the 3pt lift to set the front blade height to your target (5"). Set the 3pt stop at that as the bottom.

5) Adjust the top link so that it takes out all the slack. Now extend the top link about 2-1/2". When the tractor goes over the top of a hill, you don't want the back of the cutter to pop off the ground. If the top link is tight, every crest will result in mower lift. The top attach point should have a free swinging pivot to allow this to smoothly take up this motion. If you are popping the back wheel off the ground, extend the top link a bit more (1/2" increments) until it is working well. If you can't pick up the cutter to clear an obstacle, shorten the top link.

HTH,
jb

 

[SLOBuds]

Thanks all.

My property now has hills, bumps, ground squirrel holes and many other features. The first (unexperienced/'practice') runs ended up scalping and gouging the dirt quite a bit. The tractor pushes the cutter down every time the tractor nose is pointed up.

Gerard's technique sounds like it might work well for me. The cutter looks like it will float by attaching chains in that manner. Gerard - if I picture this accurately, you raise the lower arms only for installation of the chains. Then when you are cutting the arms are probably lowered all the way down which makes the cutter held up to the elevation set by the chains. Correct?

You may not avoid all scalping that way, but the tractor itself will not be pushing the cutter down into the ground as much. Correct?

Would there be any benefit in attaching the toplink with a chain also to increase and improve the floating even more?

 

[sunspot]

gerard
Could you post a picture? I've never seen a setup using check chains and it sounds like a great idea.

 

[ammodram]

Hi -

What if you want to cut more like 12" high over rough ground? This is what I will need to be doing to cut the weeds that will be overtopping my native grass seedlings in grassland restoration sites, without damaging the newly planted grasses.

B/c I don't think the tail wheel adjusts that high, I was anticipating carrying the hog with the tail wheel fully off of the ground and the whole thing supported by the 3 pt. Is it too much to ask of my L245DT w/FEL for front ballast to carry a 420# 4ft hog up a hill this way?

I assume in this case I would just set the front-to-back rake using the toplink? I don't have the cutter yet, so haven't had a chance to mess with this. Anyone have tips?

Thanks
Matt

 

[Champy]

Here in California we are getting close to spring so I attached my new(used) brush hog to make sure it works OK and to do a bit of practice. Quite an effort to attach that thing! But I guess you all are used to the process of muscling 900 pound implements onto 6000 pound tractors.

SLOBuds - someone else on TBN used this technique, and this past year I found it very helpful......store your brush hog on some old used tires. Then moving it to attach onto the 3PH is a breeze. The rimless tires flex and allow you to move it in any direction really easily.

 

[chh]

I've found it makes a brush hog easier to hook up if you set the skids on 4x4's. Mine is stored outside on grass. You can slide it back and forth to postion it with a piece of pipe about 4' long. It makes it lot easier to work with and is easier than it sounds and is sure easier than having it sitting on the ground.

 

[3RRL]

Thanks all.

My property now has hills, bumps, ground squirrel holes and many other features. The first (unexperienced/'practice') runs ended up scalping and gouging the dirt quite a bit. The tractor pushes the cutter down every time the tractor nose is pointed up.

Gerard's technique sounds like it might work well for me. The cutter looks like it will float by attaching chains in that manner. Gerard - if I picture this accurately, you raise the lower arms only for installation of the chains. Then when you are cutting the arms are probably lowered all the way down which makes the cutter held up to the elevation set by the chains. Correct?

You may not avoid all scalping that way, but the tractor itself will not be pushing the cutter down into the ground as much. Correct?

Would there be any benefit in attaching the toplink with a chain also to increase and improve the floating even more?

Lots of guys use chain on the top link exactly for that. There's been a lot of discussion about having too much play though ... something about the cutter being able to flip up towards the tractor if it hit something really bad. Although I've never seen or heard of it actually happening, the top link is supposed to stop the flip if that were to happen. There are semi-rigid hinged top link sway bars that allow some float, but are still rigid after that. Mine has a 4" long slot for the top link pin to float in the cutter top connection for that reason. Sometimes I need more float than that, but normally it's adequate.

Even with the check chains if your ground is like you say (much like mine) you'll want to pull up the 3p arms when approaching a dip or mound just to decrease the amount you scalp or cut dirt. I used to set the tailwheel pretty high just so I could do that. I'd lower the front more than the inch or two just so that I could lift it up when I needed.

There were times I wanted to increase the height of my tailwheel on the fly too, so I made a custom set of hydraulic tail wheels for my cutter. Your can see what I did in this thread Quick Attach Hydraulic Gauge Wheels and the one before that. It works on land like mine, and apparently, it would on yours too. Now I can raise the front AND rear when I want, without having to "carry" the mower on the 3pt alone. I think I can get about 14" up on the tailwheel now.

 

[djradz]

Check chains are the ultimate way to provide consistant trailing at a constant level. As set up, the top link floats and the front of the deck rides with the rear wheels of the tractor - much steadier than any little 10-12 inch wheels. The pic attached is of a rear deck, but a brush hog would be set up exactly the same as far as the chains are concerned.

 

[wedge40]

My "Bushhog" is the same, one rear wheel on a caster. This is not adjustable. So the only way for me to adjust cutting height is to play with the combo of 3pt and top link. My "A" frame has a chain that runs back to middle to keep the deck from tipping backward.

Wedge

 

[3RRL]

Check chains are the ultimate way to provide consistant trailing at a constant level. As set up, the top link floats and the front of the deck rides with the rear wheels of the tractor - much steadier than any little 10-12 inch wheels. The pic attached is of a rear deck, but a brush hog would be set up exactly the same as far as the chains are concerned.

I can see they would provide less up and down movement than the lower drag links since the connection to the tractor is closer/ahead of rear the wheels vs the being far out back like the drag link connection is. Especially if your land is nice and flat as shown in the background.

However, here's my take on that. If you have rough land and are mowing over swales like where the tractor was pointing down one side and the brush hog going up the other side, I'll bet you would still scalp the top of the swale somewhat. Maybe not so much a gentle swale, but sharper ones for sure. Not only that, but as the cutter passes over the top, the center of it gets closer to the ground. The only way to keep the cut constant height is to move the cutter up, using the front or rear or both...or get rid of the swales of course.

 

[PSDStu]

Check chains are the ultimate way to provide consistant trailing at a constant level. As set up, the top link floats and the front of the deck rides with the rear wheels of the tractor - much steadier than any little 10-12 inch wheels. The pic attached is of a rear deck, but a brush hog would be set up exactly the same as far as the chains are concerned.

To me the biggest advantage to using check chains is that without Position Control it allows you to set the cutting height you want..... and then be able to raise the cutter as needed to clear obstacles......and then lower it back quickly to your mowing height without having to fiddle around.

 

[bjcsc]

To me the biggest advantage to using check chains is that without Position Control it allows you to set the cutting height you want..... and then be able to raise the cutter as needed to clear obstacles......and then lower it back quickly to your mowing height without having to fiddle around.

That's the way I see it, too. That's also the advantage of my EH 3pt. I can set my low (down) position and my high (up) position and the rate at which it moves from one to the other. Then, I push the up or down button and it will automatically rise or fall to the point I have set at the rate I selected This works great for evenly emptying a box blade, etc. and also for bushhogging. Of course my position slider overrides the settings and I can use it at any time (such as when I am nose down and need to override the low point).

I think that operating a 3pt implement on any kind of terrain will require you to finesse the 3pt. It's a skill you have to take the time to learn. In my experience, 3pt. work is seldom, if ever, a "set it and forget it" operation...

 

[SLOBuds]

Check chains are the ultimate way to provide consistant trailing at a constant level. As set up, the top link floats and the front of the deck rides with the rear wheels of the tractor - much steadier than any little 10-12 inch wheels.

I also like the idea that you can use the check chains to quickly set the cutter back down to the elevation you intend - my 3pt height mechanism is kind of sticky for some reason that I'm not sure of yet.

djradz, your check chain assembly actually does not look bulky enough for my tractor/terrain/cutter weight. But it is a good setup that would not be difficult to fabricate. Easy to see how I would simply use a larger chain and beefier attachment hardware. I pictured this not set onto the base of the cutter though, but up on the 3ph pin attachment, on the cutter.

3rrl, It is hard to imagine a cutter my size actually flipping UP. It would have to be some pretty mean forces to do that. I have a clutch that absorbs all of my unintended hits. And I cut with my fel low to the ground - kind of a hassle when going over all of those dips on my land. But especially when I am starting out here, I will keep it low and maybe avoid some large obstacles. Plus my land is hilly and I do not yet feel comfortable operating at an angle. I know that first thing to do during a threatened tractor tipping is to put fel to ground.

And just to close this out I should say that my plans are to eventually get the parcel smoothed out through discing and leveling. A longer term project however.

Meanwhile, check chains look great! I'll give some thought about chaining the toplink also and let everyone know how it turns out.

Thanks again,
Martin

And I will try some of the positioning suggestions also!

 

[john_bud]

3rrl, It is hard to imagine a cutter my size actually flipping UP. It would have to be some pretty mean forces to do that. I have a clutch that absorbs all of my unintended hits.

Hmmmm, I don't mean to sound mean but, you haven't run a cutter long have you?

The clutch you are talking about is the slip clutch on the PTO shaft, right? That does absorb the shock load of hitting an object - but only in the drive line. It protects the PTO assembly in the tractor. The laws of physics are still operable and that huge spinning mass in motion, when stopped by hitting a steel pole sticking 8" out of the ground, will translate into other energy. The slip clutch does not make it go away. Maybe it will translate into the activation energy needed to shatter steel, probably not. Maybe it will translate from rotational engergy into linear energy and shoot down into the ground - probably not. Maybe, just maybe it will take the path of least resistance and shoot up and flop onto you. Hmmm - sure would be nice to have a solid linkage between the tractor and the cutter -WHEN, not if, WHEN- that happens.

Your comment on it "being hard to imagine that happening" is pretty much what everyone says - after it happens.

jb

 

[3RRL]

Good for you Martin,
Looks like you'll do fine with what you're planning.
I certainly agree with what has been said, using the check chains to get back consistently to the same height/position. It's an easy, reliable and proven method. No doubt about that and I was not disagreeing with that at all. More so, what bjcsc said, working the 3pt is not always a set it and forget deal ... I guess that was my point too and he just said it a lot better than I did.

As far as the cutter flipping up, you're right, it's very unlikely. I said above that I was only bringing up what was discussed in past threads and that was one of the concerns mentioned in one of them. I have never seen nor had it happen to me, but I have had the cutter "jump" up several feet after running over something big even with the fel low, so I'm thinking it's not impossible.