brush hogging problems

[greenmule]

Yes indeed,three point raises and lowers front to any spot you want,but we are talking the rear,right,my tail wheel is in the next to lowest setting,[setting making rear next to highest it will go],now...[and the only reason its not in the lowest one is its not fabed right to get there with out some modification,so its in the last postion it will go],now at that height if I made front 2 inches lower it would be a problem for me,[got it set up now about 4 1/2 inches all around]In other words,front would be about two inches or less and rear would meet your specications,thats to low for my ground.

Also use a chain and always have,but that shouldn't have anthing to do with what we are talking about.

Now,I could,like I said modify the tail wheel adjustment to make it more adjustable[rear go up even higher] but,SINCE it cuts grass like a finish mower with 7 year old never sharpened blades,can't see doing that.

Now why others never say what I'm saying,well they could be newbies who just follow the only way they have been told by somebody and live with it,or maybe they got smooth ground with no dips or humps,don't know.Plus bet many many just set it like I do and you might not know about it??

 

[eastexan]

Now I would suggest to the op that if he's got a nice kinda level area thats just grass,that he take top link off and try it,he'll learn something else, he might learn why chain might work better for you than solid top link.

Thats probably against established rules too?

I know that a lot of guys use a chain instead of a top link. But I've heard more than once that people using a chain instead of a top link have been badly hurt and some killed by accidentally hitting a buried rock or stump with the front of the cutter, and it flipping up onto the back of the tractor.

I don't use a chain for that reason. I've mowed all kinds of terrain, and have never had a problem using a top link on any of the mowers I've ever had.

 

[greenmule]

Doubt if many [or any] have been killed by using chain instead of toplink,but who knows,maybe I'm just more thoughtfull and smart than I thought,cause I have been using a chain on hills/rough ground for many years and I'm still here.

You don't want to cut real brush using a chain,don't think,and you got to know your ground and be mindfull,thats all.In this thread have said the ways you could get in trouble using a chain.

Most of us just cut weeds and grass with their hogs,and most of us mow the same few acres hundreds of times.

Just telling the op of other ways,he can do as he will do.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

At this point, I think we'll let the OP review the information and take his advice from where he sees fit. He's got two choices. One, the established, accepted, recomended method as is normal, or he can be one of only TWO people who believe that the engineers who design bush hog cutters, farmers and mowing contractors who've used 'em since the boys down in Selma Alabama built the first bush hog (w/ "Bush Hog" painted on the side), and darn near everyone who's ever posted their method of set-up......is a "newbie" that doesn't know of what they speak.

I know where I'd put MY money!

 

[greenmule]

Well farm with junk,you have made your point and I have made mine,you can have last word if you want.??

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I know that a lot of guys use a chain instead of a top link. But I've heard more than once that people using a chain instead of a top link have been badly hurt and some killed by accidentally hitting a buried rock or stump with the front of the cutter, and it flipping up onto the back of the tractor.

I don't use a chain for that reason. I've mowed all kinds of terrain, and have never had a problem using a top link on any of the mowers I've ever had.

I'm sorta leaning towards that idea of a mower flipping up and hitting the operator as being somewhat of a "rural legend". I've used semi-mounted mowers on several occasions. They are essentially a 3-point mounted mower that doesn't use the top link at all. Rear wheels are hydraulic lift. Never had one to so much as even TRY to "flip". And that includes once where I hit a buried, sawn off telephone pole sticking up about 10". Caught the leading edge of the mower and stopped a 9500lb/95hp tractor in its tracks.

Most "better" (read more expensive) mowers have a better version of the toggle on the 3-point top link mounting point. They allow PLENTY of flex (up & down) In the case of one Woods mower I owned (BB840) I replaced the two struts that tie the top link mount to the rear of the mower with chains. (Original struts flexed and bent way too much for my liking) Never had a prblem with THAT mower kicking up (flipping) either. It's POSSIBLE in theory, but I've yet to ever hear of a mower raising more than a few inches when it contacts something solid. Generally, a situation like that snags the tractor to a halt like the arrestor cable on an aircraft carrier

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Well farm with junk,you have made your point and I have made mine,you can have last word if you want.??

Really? That's kind of you to allow me that luxury. I sure wouldn't have without your approval and blessings. (Sarcasm indicator light flashing!!!!!)

 

[SPYDERLK]

I'm sorta leaning towards that idea of a mower flipping up and hitting the operator as being somewhat of a "rural legend". Most "better" (read more expensive) mowers have a better version of the toggle on the 3-point top link mounting point. They allow PLENTY of flex (up & down) In the case of one Woods mower I owned (BB840) I replaced the two struts that tie the top link mount to the rear of the mower with chains. (Original struts flexed and bent way too much for my liking) Never had a prblem with THAT mower kicking up (flipping) either. It's POSSIBLE in theory, but I've yet to ever hear of a mower raising more than a few inches when it contacts something solid. Generally, a situation like that snags the tractor to a halt like the arrestor cable on an aircraft carrier

Ive had my JD 5' flip up several times to about 30 degrees. Its really quite an easy thing to have happen since the pins are about a foot higher than the body of the hog. Its self limiting unless you are extremely unlucky since the bh body rises as it kicks up and naturally frees itself of the obstruction. Your bushogs must be large wrt the tractor to bring you to a stop w/o kicking up. When Im working in the woods in low gears the tractor barely feels the hog as it kicks up.
larry

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Ive had my JD 5' flip up several times to about 30 degrees. Its really quite an easy thing to have happen since the pins are about a foot higher than the body of the hog. Its self limiting unless you are extremely unlucky since the bh body rises as it kicks up and naturally frees itself of the obstruction. Your bushogs must be large wrt the tractor to bring you to a stop w/o kicking up. When Im working in the woods in low gears the tractor barely feels the hog as it kicks up.
larry

The case I mentioned w/9500lb tractor was a 12' Bush Hog semi-mount (single wing batwing) The BB840 was on a 7200lb/60hp Deere. Brought 'em both to immediate stop. Sent me chest first into steering wheel. I guess darn near ANYTHING is possible. I'm must have a little Missouri blood in me though. Gotta see it happen a'fore I'm gonna think it likely to happen.

 

[Lineman North Florida]

Not trying to start another contest so please nobody take it as such, I cut bahaia grass here in Fla and if I dont sharpen my blades once a year it seems like I am beating the grass down rather than cutting it. Greenmule you are very fortunate to have the kind of grass you do or a heckuva good set of blades. Anybody else have to sharpen yearly?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Not trying to start another contest so please nobody take it as such, I cut bahaia grass here in Fla and if I dont sharpen my blades once a year it seems like I am beating the grass down rather than cutting it. Greenmule you are very fortunate to have the kind of grass you do or a heckuva good set of blades. Anybody else have to sharpen yearly?

Depending on what we're mowing, we grind blades as often as once a week. In sandy conditions, quite frequently. Rocks play havoc on blades too. Quality of cut suffers if blades aren't kept in decent condition.

 

[smitty9266]

Yearly...Yearly... I remove mine every 3 mowing's sharpen blades apply
never-seize to the bolts and put the blades back on. Mows great... grass looks good, weeds look good, and blade bolts are always easy to remove.

Jeff

 

[eastexan]

Not trying to start another contest so please nobody take it as such, I cut bahaia grass here in Fla and if I dont sharpen my blades once a year it seems like I am beating the grass down rather than cutting it. Greenmule you are very fortunate to have the kind of grass you do or a heckuva good set of blades. Anybody else have to sharpen yearly?

I agree, Lineman. Bahia grass is very tough. There was a strip of Bahia along the road where I used to live, years ago. Back then, I had an old 9N Ford with a 5' HiCo cutter. If I let the Bahia get too high, the old tractor would really struggle to cut it. I had to crawl along in 1st gear with it really revved up, and even then I would have to stop and let it recover at times.

I have some Bahia where I live now, but I have a Ford 3000, and it don't bog down like the old 9N did. But still, if I don't keep the blade constantly sharp, it will do as you said. It will just beat the grass down and the cut will be uneven.

 

[greenmule]

Well I'm sure putting a little edge on my 7 year old blades that have been cutting 10-12 acres 3-5 times year would help,but it still does cut pretty good,probably ain't cut 1/4 acre of real brush with it,and you could count on probably one hand the times I've hit rocks or stumps,so just depends on how you use it.

Figured maybe this fall to put new ones on,not going to try and remove nuts/bolts with a wrench either,going to just cut them off with torch.

Every now and than you buy a tool that has been worth more than you paid for it,this kk light duty cutter is one of them,still think you can buy a 5 ft one for under a thousand.
After thinking about it,its probably closer to 9 years than 7.

 

[Conservation]

I saw in another thread someone had done what I had thought of doing: Put a set of boggie wheels on the front of the mower to keep it from doing the scalping thing. Placement would have to be in front unless I wanted to stay well away from fences etc. Anyone else do this?

 

[PSDStu]

Not trying to start another contest so please nobody take it as such, I cut bahaia grass here in Fla and if I dont sharpen my blades once a year it seems like I am beating the grass down rather than cutting it. Greenmule you are very fortunate to have the kind of grass you do or a heckuva good set of blades. Anybody else have to sharpen yearly?

I'm right there with ya Lineman on cutting Bahia! I have about 5 acres of my own to cut, plus I also take care of mowing about 50 acres for a neighbor. As you and others well know cutting bahia is like cutting rope, and besides having to sharpen blades fairly often, it also means I have to go a little slower to get a decent cut. Thankfully I don't have rocks to deal with.......but if you want to talk about fire ant mounds.....now I got plenty of them to level.... and after a good thunderstorm they will be all over the place!

 

[pitt_md]

I'm not getting mad.....Why? ARE YOU? In fact, I'm starting to laugh at some of what I'm reading.

You say setting the mower (correctly) "my way" makes the front end too low.... Not sure why you'd say that, as it can be set at ANY height you so desire, from dragging the ground to all the way raised. Once again, your mowing height is determined by 3-point hitch and set at height needed. THEN the rear of the mower is set 1" to 2" higher, gauged by the tailwheel(s). It's not rocket science.

Not sure what "book" you're referring to (Possibly MAD Magazine???? ) I'm referring to owners manuals and tech service bulletins from Bush Hog, Alamo Group (Shulte/Rhino/Alamo) Woods, Landpride, ect...... As well as the commonly accepted (and often posted) successful methods of MOST end users of bush hog type cutters.

What I find so strange is, I know probably 20 people (Locally and on TBN) who own a KK 5' mower. NONE, NOT ONE of them relates any simular set-up problems you're having.

FWJ,
you can buy them books and send them to school but if all they do is eat their lunch...

 

[greenmule]

Well,here we go,I did not bring up books first,the old senior grass cutting champion did,

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Well,here we go,I did not bring up books first,the old senior grass cutting champion did,

First, let's address your rude, condescending attitude. There's no place for that here. Act like an adult or go find the Chuckie Cheese Tractor forum. If you want to get nasty about this, hang on to your hat, 'cause you're WAAAAAAY outta your league, jr.

Secondly, YOU were the one who brought up "books". (And have yet to explain WHAT books your vivid imagination has in mind.) I've named my sources. They aren't fictitious "books". They're tech service manuals and owners manuals from the manufacturers of the best of the best in regards to bush hog cutters, not some wild-azz nonsense conjured up by someone who only imagines they know of what they speak.

 

[cowboy357]

I,m Curious Farmwithjunk , you Mention Grinding Blades . MY BH just look kind of like flat maybe a little Rounded Edges , Has Since it was new . It Cuts Fine From Tall to almost Like a Finish cut . Are You Saying it Would be Better if They Were Ground ?

I Only Mow about 12 Acres About once a Week or so in The Rainy season , Less in Times Like right now . Any Chance You Could Explain it or Posablly Post some Pics of how You do it ( Grinding or Sharpening ) ?

I Also have a Finish Mower that I Keep the Blades sharp on . Just Stumped on the BH , Thanks for any Info. Bob