Bucket Cutting Edge--Need Advice Regarding Replacement

[npalen]

Ordered a 60" 1/2"x4" weld-on replacement cutting edge for my 48" bucket.
Titan 6" Bucket Cutting Edge Hardened 155 Carbon Steel 1/2" Tractor Loader | eBay

My question is what to do with the ends. The pictures show the cutting edge wrapped around and up the ends of the bucket a couple inches. I think that I can duplicate that by heating with the rosebud torch and pounding the ends up but not sure if I can do it as well as the original.

The existing up-wrap is worn blunt so would kinda like to replace it but the other option might be to cut the existing cutting edge off while leaving the wrapped vertical portion on each end. The new piece would be laid in flush with the outside edge of the vertical portion.

Could use some feedback on how to approach this. Thanks in advance.

 

[George2615]

Replace your cutting edge flat across. No need to heat and bend up the ends. You can weld or bolt the new edge onto the existing edge. Measure the new edge the full width of your bucket and cut off the excess. A torch or cut off wheel will do the job. The upright pieces are for a wear edge when running the bucket along a curb. You can leave those alone. I would weld or bolt the new edge under the original.

 

[Egon]

Leave the cutting edge extend a bit on each side. Weld new cutting edge to the bucket side edges.

A little extension can be handy for poking/cutting things like garage doors or roots.

 

[Shield Arc]

Few years ago, I extended a bucket for a friend. Added 18-inches on each side. When we replaced the cutting edge, we just cut a small piece, and welded it on the side of the bucket.

 

[npalen]

I forgot to mention that one reason for replacing the edge is that it is bent in a couple places which makes it difficult to install and remove my Piranha tooth bar.
The other reason, of course, is that the existing edge is worn blunt. I would think that welding the new edge under the existing blunt would defeat the purpose of a sharp cutting edge. I had planned to remove the existing edge by cutting the welds top and bottom.

Egon above--I assume your "garage doors" comment is tongue in cheek but I could see a bit of use for an extended cutting edge beyond the bucket length. Probably would nip it off, however, the first time I caught the "garage door".

Shield Arc above--What stick rod would you recommend for welding and what about some pre and post heat?

 

[Shield Arc]

I used Mig on the cutting edge. But 7018 is just fine! I used a weed burner for preheat, then wrapped the cutting edge in a welding blanket, and house insulation for an overnight cool down after welding. This cutting edge is AR-200, that is all the steel supplier had.
I recommend you back step, and skip around when welding! So you won't warp the cutting edge!

 

[George2615]

Your original edge is not 1/2" thick. Will your Piranha tooth bar fit on the new 1/2" thick bar.

You can install your new edge however you want. That's a lot of work to cut off all the weld on the original. If it was mine I'd straighten the original cutting edge with the rosebud torch and weld the new edge to the bottom. But that's me.
Keep us posted on your progress.
I'd tack the new edge on with 6013 then finish weld with 7018 and skip weld like SA says to prevent warp..

 

[npalen]

The original edge does measure 1/2" thickness. It was bent badfully (typo but I thought it might be a new word ) when I bought it used. Was able to straighten it considerably with the rosebud but the Piranha is still difficult to install.
Plenty of time on my hands so want to remove the existing edge before installing the new.

I'm thinking that, in addition to skip welding, I should alternate welds between the top and bottom of the bucket. No?

 

[George2615]

OK on the original being 1/2", it doesn't look like it is in your pics.
I would alternate welds between top and bottom but I'm not a professional welder.

 

[Shield Arc]

I should alternate welds between the top and bottom of the bucket. No?

That is always a good idea! :thumbsup:

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Replace your cutting edge flat across. No need to heat and bend up the ends. You can weld or bolt the new edge onto the existing edge. Measure the new edge the full width of your bucket and cut off the excess. A torch or cut off wheel will do the job. The upright pieces are for a wear edge when running the bucket along a curb. You can leave those alone. I would weld or bolt the new edge under the original.

Yeah...Uhhh No! Do it right. This is a shade tree hack job. The sides are supposed to fold up. A decent cutting torch head will do all the heating you need to bend the edges up. NEVER cut the side off, as that is a critical point for cutting when you are digging. Cut the old one out and weld it in if it is what I think it is.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Replace your cutting edge flat across. No need to heat and bend up the ends. You can weld or bolt the new edge onto the existing edge. Measure the new edge the full width of your bucket and cut off the excess. A torch or cut off wheel will do the job. The upright pieces are for a wear edge when running the bucket along a curb. You can leave those alone. I would weld or bolt the new edge under the original.

Yeah...Uhhh No! Do it right. This is a shade tree hack job. The sides are supposed to fold up. A decent cutting torch head will do all the heating you need to bend the edges up. NEVER cut the side off, as that is a critical point for cutting when you are digging. Cut the old one out and weld it in if it is what I think it is.

This is a simple repair. Wash/Cut the welds off with a cutting torch or plasma cutter. Get a sledge hammer to knock the remaining welds off along with the cutting edge. Cut it into pieces if necessary. Check on the underside too for welds.

Nothing wrong with welding it fully. Grind the old part of the bucket, hammer it where needed to get the cutting edge to sit flat as possible. Clamp it on with several deep F style clamps and rig some thick flat bar to hold it on either side back to the bucket to keep it lined up if the clamps aren't deep enough. Tack it up on each end, then the middle, leaving the cutting edges flat on the ends first. Then weld it in. Skip weld if you want, but weld the whole edge up. A lot of dirt can get shoved into those cracks, not to mention water/ice and other materials and debris...so a relatively smooth continuous weld is preferred. When finished, take your torch and heat up the area, not a pin point area, but a wider area and pound it up into position. Clamp it while it is still hot, then weld it all the way. Repeat on the other side, and you are done. That's a nice little project that shouldn't take too long and is a gravy welding and cutting job.

 

[George2615]

Been a shade tree mechanic all my life and proud of it but I'm not a hack. After the OP said he needed to remove his old edge so his Piranha bar will fit, I would agree he needs to remove it. I still think heating and bending the edges up would remove the cutting edge blade hardness.

Or he should have bought a replacement cutting edge that has the wrap up ends from the factory.

Since he didn't, I would replace the wrapped up edges with the cut offs from the new blade and weld them on. Just my opinion.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

George,
I've welded many of those things on. That is how it is done. It is how it is supposed to be done. The cutting edge is supposed to be heated and wrapped around. Think about it...what you recommend is literally, by definition a "hack" job. You are hacking it up into pieces and rewelding it, contrary to factory procedure and intended functionality. This is simply how the factory does it. (wrapping the ends).

I've never seen a "wrapped end". That is why the cutting edges are sold longer than the bucket width.

But think about it, from another perspective. You are heating the bar up anyway by cutting it, and then again by welding it. What's the difference? I mean no insult, but what you recommended is completely contrary to how a professional would do it, and the end result saves no time or effort.

 

[George2615]

The factory cutting edge on my bucket is flat. It does not wrap up the sides. The side pieces are welded to the bucket and to the cutting edge. From what I see in the OP's first post, to me it didn't look like his ends are wrapped up the sides.
I know some companies do sell cutting edges the are already wrapped up on the ends but not all buckets are built that way. I too have replaced many cutting edges and have never ran across one that was wrapped up the sides from the factory. They were always separate pieces.
Here is an example by a company that sells factory wrapped cutting edge and of mine NOT wrapped..

Replacement Loader Bucket Cutting Edges - Weld In

 

[Egon]

The third picture really shows how I'd prefer the final product. Just a little extension for hooking or digging in.

 

[npalen]

I can see pros and cons for both methods.

So, Mark, are you going to cut me a good deal on an Everlast? Sure would beat my Lincoln AC buzzbox!

 

[Shield Arc]

So, Mark, are you going to cut me a good deal on an Everlast? Sure would beat my Lincoln AC buzzbox!

If you want a SMAW, (stick) welder. The PowerArc 200ST is a very impressive welder!

 

[npalen]

I would love to have a combination stick, mig and plasma machine. I'm just a 70 year young retired farm boy who likes to spend time in the shop making and improving attachments.

 

[Shield Arc]

I've read where the welders with plasma and high frequency Tig welders have problems. I don't know anything about Everlast multi-process welders. I have a Lincoln V350-Pro multi-process welder.