Bucket hook weld on points

[stihlworking]

Looking for some comments or suggestions on my weld on points for bucket hooks and shackle mount. This is a 2014 Kioti DK45 KL401 6ft loader bucket. see pic. upper would be for shackle to secure logs or brush to bucket (from shackles attached to tooth bar bolt holes). Lower is for grab hook-will use backing plate on this one.

 

[jeff9366]

You do not want shackles, you want 5/16" chain grab hooks.

Mount approximately in line with lift arms. Lift arms help keep bucket from torquing, potentially "springing" FEL arms. The position also maximizes bucket support of FEL lift arms.

A chain grab hook is a more rapidly accessed fitting.

I seldom used the center slip hook, so after several months I removed it.

 

[roadhunter]

What's wrong with a shackle mount?

 

[BlacknTan]

You do not want shackles, you want 5/16" chain grab hooks.

Mount approximately in line with lift arms. Lift arms help keep bucket from torquing, potentially "springing" FEL arms. The position also maximizes bucket support of FEL lift arms.

A chain grab hook is a more rapidly accessed fitting.

It doesn't hurt to have shackles, but in my experience they would be superfluous if you have grab hooks.

Ken, a good guy, has bolt ons ...

Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks <<Home>>

And member James k0ua did a great job on his with a similar tractor .. Maybe he'll chime in.

 

[Gary Fowler]

If you are using straps, a shackle might be useful, but a chain is much better- it doesn't cut or wear on rough surfaces like a strap.
I would put on 3/8" chain hooks- that way you can use 3/8" chain OR 5/16" chain. Of course if you never plan to buy or use 3/8" chain, go with the smaller hook if you want.
I would place them at the center line of the hydraulic lift arms. THE best way is to just use a sling from each hook to lift your load but sometimes you have to do center pick. If using them to center point lift make a Y sling by attaching a chain to each hook, use on hook to attach back to the chain forming the Y, then attach the end of the chain to your load. DONT lift heavy load from one side of the FEL. IT is OK for really light loads to lift from one hook, but a heavy load might torque your loader arms and/or tip your tractor on that side so be careful.

 

[Wa11banger]

Second Ken's hooks I bought bare hooks and plates and welded them as previously suggested directly in line with the FEL arms. I also put one of Ken's shackle mounts directly in the center. The combination has been excellent for just about any situation I have needed. One suggestion when using the chain hooks is always use them both. Its stronger and wont torque your FEL or pull you to one side if you are dragging with them.

Ken's customer service was excellent I had my hooks in my hand the next day.

Edited.. below is how I added the hooks and link

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=A5FE88BDB87A3CAE!2380&authkey=!AL9SjsyL3yIVKhc&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG

 

[jeff9366]

You do not want shackles, you want 5/16" chain grab hooks.

5/16" grab hooks will hold 3/8" chain securely too, in my three years experience.

5/16" grab hooks will also hold 1/4" chain securely. For pulling out saplings, roots and all, 1/4" chain will hold, where 5/16" and 3/8" chain will slip. Use only GRADE 70 chain in your endeavors.

The hooks in my pictures in Post #2 also came from Ken's Hooks in Westminster, Maryland. He sells bolt-on and weld-on grab hooks of highest quality.

LINK:

Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks <<Home>>

 

[k0ua]

Did someone pull my chain?

Mount what you please, but this is what I did, and have not wanted for anything different. I used 5/16 grab hooks, on the factory pads. Used some 7018 1/8 inch at about 125 amps. Cleaned all down to bright metal first of course. Repainted with Kubota's new charcoal paint. (yes I know that is a sin, putting Kubota paint on a Kioti, but I had some left over from the last Kubota, and it seems to match as good as anything. Here are the photo's in no particular order. Just tack them on straight, and weld em up!

 

[Walkin Horse]

I would not rig the chain like in post 2. That's a sure way to twist something. Either put one in the middle or use 3 hooks. Then you have one in the center for a single chain pick or 2 on the outside for a y pick or you can pick with 2 chains and adjust their lengths for balance. (Wow one sentence)

 

[stihlworking]

Thanks for the ideas and reply's. The chain grabs will do the heavy lifting, which will be from the rear bottom of the bucket closer to the quick attach pins and next to that vertical flange. that portion of the bucket is several layers thick as best I can tell and I wont be running the chain over the top. I like shackles for lighter weight long and awkward materials like limbs and pipe. Im a rope junkie being in the tree business so shackles give me flexibility for rope, chain, cable, or straps. I did order the stuff from Ken. I would grind a chamfer on the bottom of those mounts for a tee groove weld. I put d rings all over my trailer cause I could never decide where to put just 4 or 6. Think I will be conservative and add some later depending on what I need to do. I wish someone made weld on saddle grab hooks. I think thats what they are called. Got some for my load binders.

 

[BKBoiss]

Everyone has a slightly different way to do the same job. I only use hooks and can't ever see myself in need of shackles. If you do decide you need hook later it's just as easy to add them. Or buy ones that just pin on to the shackle mounts. The one thing I was going to mention was to add some 2x2 thick wall square tubing or something similar under the top front lip of the bucket. I don't know how tough your bucket is but the one on my john Deere is just a tad heavier then tin and would be bent up in a heart beat.

 

[kennyd]

5/16" grab hooks will hold 3/8" chain securely too, in my three years experience.

5/16" grab hooks will also hold 1/4" chain securely. For pulling out saplings, roots and all, 1/4" chain will hold, where 5/16" and 3/8" chain will slip. Use only GRADE 70 chain in your endeavors.

The hooks in my pictures in Post #2 also came from Ken's Hooks in Westminster, Maryland. He sells bolt-on and weld-on grab hooks of highest quality.

LINK:

Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks <<Home>>

Thanks for the endorsement Jeff! You are 100% correct that the 5/16" hooks will hold both 1/4" and 3/8" chain securely, and since they are rated at 4,700lbs they are really all the average tractor owner needs-IMHO of course that is.

 

[bcp]

I would not rig the chain like in post 2. That's a sure way to twist something. Either put one in the middle or use 3 hooks. Then you have one in the center for a single chain pick or 2 on the outside for a y pick or you can pick with 2 chains and adjust their lengths for balance. (Wow one sentence)

I think in that post the brush forks are doing the heavy work while the chain just stabilizes the log.

But you're right about not doing heavy lifting with one side chain.

Bruce

 

[kennyd]

Thanks for the ideas and reply's. The chain grabs will do the heavy lifting, which will be from the rear bottom of the bucket closer to the quick attach pins and next to that vertical flange. that portion of the bucket is several layers thick as best I can tell and I wont be running the chain over the top. I like shackles for lighter weight long and awkward materials like limbs and pipe. Im a rope junkie being in the tree business so shackles give me flexibility for rope, chain, cable, or straps. I did order the stuff from Ken. I would grind a chamfer on the bottom of those mounts for a tee groove weld. I put d rings all over my trailer cause I could never decide where to put just 4 or 6. Think I will be conservative and add some later depending on what I need to do. I wish someone made weld on saddle grab hooks. I think thats what they are called. Got some for my load binders.

Screw pin shackles work great with straps, slings, cable and rope as you mentioned-much better than the grab hooks.

Could you describe or send/post a picture of this "saddle grab hook" you mentioned? My supplier may have something I could get for you.

 

[jeff9366]

I think in that post the brush forks are doing the heavy work while the chain just stabilizes the log.

True.

With my old, light, B3300SU I always kept max loads secured tight on the bucket, to prevent oscillation. Had soggy log dropped off, I am not sure I could have picked it off the road without unnecessary fol-de-rol.

There was an 800 pound Cultipacker on the B3300SU 3-Pt. as counter-balance when photo was taken. Front axle on the 'B' series is pretty light; I was careful to counter-balance, never had a problem.



With the much heavier, much more stable L3560, counter-balance remains important but I do not chain-secure loads as often. (Photos #3, #4)

Picture #4 shows Rollover Box Blade as counter-balance.

L3560 has optional Kubota (L2296) Heavy Duty Round-Back bucket with Ken's 5/16" weld-on Grab Hooks. No center mount.

Ken's hooks are industrial art. If you buy Ken's once you will be dissatisfied with lesser quality.

 

[stihlworking]

I said it wrong, they are cradle grab. Less to no strength loss on the chain. Ive only seen them in grade 80 and 100 so not ideal unless you know what you're doing welding wise. The bucket is 3/16 but on the bottom rear the bend that makes up the bucket has 3/16 angle welded to it, so 3/8 at that point. might be a good spot next to the quick pins. 3/8 there too. check out my ammo can toolbox! it came with a lock clasp and lid hinge on one side too!

 

[TomSeller]

I welded a slp hook in the center and grab hooks on each side above the loader arms. The chain from nearly every load goes through the center slip and then over to one slip grab hook or the other, depending on which side I am standing on. Simple and all loads centered.

 

[SPIKER]

After welding my hooks on at outside edges (my arms are only 6" inside the bucket from the edge so no worries about twisting.) The BEST thing I welded on was old Receiver Hitch dead center, heck with the receiver I can put Hook, Balls or what ever I want on it. The ball hitches are good for moving trailers around or for hooking chain or straps on!

I am looking at pulling off the HOOKS and putting on 3 or 4 receiver tubes so that I can build a slip in grapple at some point.

Mark

 

[MikePA]

Grab hooks on the bucket in front of the lift arms and a slip hook in the middle. I secure the chain in one of the grab hooks, run it through the slip hook, wrap the chain around whatever I am working with, back through the slip hook and back to the other grab hook. Works for me.

 

[chopped]

Very nice job Like how you made the triangle mounts.As to another poster I have found that with my mid size tractor 3/8 chain is overkill. I have it but never use it. 5/16 and also the ability to grab the 1/4 chain is great when your holding something in bucket.For me with a 5 foot bucket 3/8 chain is just to much.
Also likke to add. that I like to use the clevis grabs and grind to suit.with the pin out of the clevis.(leaves me with a usable pin for elsewhere) when I load ,say a washer machine or fiurniture. the grove where the clevis pin would go adds a good spot to slip rope onto.

Did someone pull my chain?

Mount what you please, but this is what I did, and have not wanted for anything different. I used 5/16 grab hooks, on the factory pads. Used some 7018 1/8 inch at about 125 amps. Cleaned all down to bright metal first of course. Repainted with Kubota's new charcoal paint. (yes I know that is a sin, putting Kubota paint on a Kioti, but I had some left over from the last Kubota, and it seems to match as good as anything. Here are the photo's in no particular order. Just tack them on straight, and weld em up!


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