Bucket Hooks/Hitch/Level Indicators
- Thread starter ditzel
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JB4310
Super Member
Looks good to me, If your using 2 hooks at once I don't see how position matters, if you want to use one hook, just use the center one. With out board hooks I don't think you would ever want to use just one. Good idea with the angle iron, that should stiffen it up, what are the other 2 pcs of angle for? and what is your loaders lift capacity.
AchingBack
Veteran Member
SPECS ML106JB4310 said:
Attachment rated capacity used for specification 7.3 cu. ft.
Attachment Rollback Angle 19ｰ
Attachment width used for specification 60"
Breakout Force @ Pivot Pins 2172 lbs.
Clearance with Attachment Dumped 79"
Cycle Times @ rpm 2900 rpm
Digging Depth Below Grade 2.9"
Dump Attachment (seconds) 1.9
Lift Capacity to Full Height @ Pivot Pins 1050 lbs.
Lower Boom (seconds) 2.2
Maximum Dump Angle 39ｰ
Maximum Lift Height 96.5"
Raise Boom (seconds) 2.8
Rated Flow (Tractor System) 7.8 gpm
Reach at Maximum Height 28"
Retract Attachment (seconds) 1.9
Dargo
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whiteh2o said:
So do the manufacturers. Most manufacturers I know will void your loader warranty if you've improperly welded hooks on the outer edges of your loader bucket. They'll be quite blunt and tell you that they don't care that you say that you have never used just one hook. If you twist your loader, very likely with hooks set out there, your warranty will be void. BTW, I wouldn't advise telling your tractor manufacturer that you think their "opinion" of where to attach lift and grab hooks are like what you say.
It's a matter of geometry and design. They employ and pay people far smarter than me to tell them exactly how the loader arms can be used, what pressures and stresses they can handle, and where it is appropriate to use maximum lifting forces. I'd suggest you take up your "azz" discussion with the engineers employed by the various tractor manufacturers, not the guys posting here trying to offer help and sound advice.
DMF
Platinum Member
The dealer welded my hooks on the bucket when I bought the tractor....on the outside edges. I've pulled and lifted for six years with it, many times with only one hook and at the very best with one of the two seeing more load than the other. Either I've been extremely lucky or being 8" outboard of where my loader arms mount isn't far enough to go beyond whatever safety factor was designed into the system...
Picture is kind of lousy but here it is:
Picture is kind of lousy but here it is:
Attachments
Dargo
Super Member
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- 5,981
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- S. IN
- Tractor
- Jinma, Foton, TYM, Belarus, Yanmar, Branson, Montana, Mahindra and maybe some green and orange too.
Having seen what I've seen on tractors where I've relocated improperly placed hooks, I'd not have much faith in that dealer; sorry. It really isn't a good idea mounting hooks outside the lift arms. Personally, I'd have them relocated to a proper position even if you don't plan on keeping the tractor. Please don't take this wrong, but it's your tractor and do with it what you please.
It's sort of like using the wrong tool for a job. You can get by with it a lot of the time but sooner or later it's going to break. As expensive as tractors are, I'd not put strain on my loader that I knew it was never intended to take. A hook on the far outside of a bucket really torques the loader arms as well as the loader frame itself. But, there again, I didn't pay for your tractor and I won't have to pay to fix it if it breaks from improper loader use. I have a neighbor who hauls a 12k goose neck trailer with a 1/2 ton pickup. So far he hasn't paid the price but the odds really aren't in his favor.
It's sort of like using the wrong tool for a job. You can get by with it a lot of the time but sooner or later it's going to break. As expensive as tractors are, I'd not put strain on my loader that I knew it was never intended to take. A hook on the far outside of a bucket really torques the loader arms as well as the loader frame itself. But, there again, I didn't pay for your tractor and I won't have to pay to fix it if it breaks from improper loader use. I have a neighbor who hauls a 12k goose neck trailer with a 1/2 ton pickup. So far he hasn't paid the price but the odds really aren't in his favor.
JB4310
Super Member
DMF said:
Yea, I really don't see the problem here, except the stability of the tractor using just one side. I don't have the weld on hooks I went with the center mounted receiver partly because my lift capacity is 1500 pounds and I figured why would I want to have to attach to 2 hooks for that little weight, most of these CUTs can only lift 1200 - 1800 pounds, and though you wouldn't want to lift that much from 1 side for the tractors stability sake.
whiteh2o
Silver Member
I googled CUT and didn't find it. Should I be afraid to ask?...ha something utility, tractor? Kind of like New Holland making 'Boomers' because the baby boomers can afford them now...ha
DMF
Platinum Member
Hey Dargo,
I understand your point but it might not be as bad as you make it out to be. I use the edge of my bucket to pry rocks out of the ground all the time. I use the corner of the bucket so I can see what I am doing. Often I exceed the break out point as I can't dig them out all the time. To me this is no different than hooking to the top corner. My comment about the system is, if designed properly, pulling, digging, hooking from an extreme corner should not exceed the safety factor; in other words, the hydraulics will fail to lift before you reach the point where you should wreck something. IF the system is properly designed! I have a Massey Ferguson, so I am a little more confident in the design...
I think the worse strain I put on my loader arms is using a 7 1/2' plow to move snow in the winter. With that I am adding significantly more leverage than the 8" my bucket extends past the loader arm mounts.
Would it be better to have the hooks above the loader arm points; no doubt. Is it a big problem where they are? Probably not. BTW, that dealership has been around for several generations serving a large area of farmers; if they'd been mounting them incorrectly they'd have heard about it by now.
I understand your point but it might not be as bad as you make it out to be. I use the edge of my bucket to pry rocks out of the ground all the time. I use the corner of the bucket so I can see what I am doing. Often I exceed the break out point as I can't dig them out all the time. To me this is no different than hooking to the top corner. My comment about the system is, if designed properly, pulling, digging, hooking from an extreme corner should not exceed the safety factor; in other words, the hydraulics will fail to lift before you reach the point where you should wreck something. IF the system is properly designed! I have a Massey Ferguson, so I am a little more confident in the design...
I think the worse strain I put on my loader arms is using a 7 1/2' plow to move snow in the winter. With that I am adding significantly more leverage than the 8" my bucket extends past the loader arm mounts.
Would it be better to have the hooks above the loader arm points; no doubt. Is it a big problem where they are? Probably not. BTW, that dealership has been around for several generations serving a large area of farmers; if they'd been mounting them incorrectly they'd have heard about it by now.
Bedlam
Veteran Member
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- Feb 28, 2005
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- 1,878
Ive had mine on the outside on three different tractors in 30 plus years, All I've ever found is that the tractor will raise the opposing wheel up and try to tip over.I us the center hook mainly all the time but the side ones usually if its easier to get to and not much strain. I like them mostly to hook straps on them to hold stuff in the bucket.
If I had a choice where to mount them , Id give up the 3 or so inches and put them in-line. But If you respect it your usually in good shape
Al
If I had a choice where to mount them , Id give up the 3 or so inches and put them in-line. But If you respect it your usually in good shape
Al