Building a bridge

/ Building a bridge #21  
There is a reason that the utility removed the old poles. I would be wary of using the poles as a bridge.

The concrete block are made with leftover concrete and will vary in size. Their cost is forming and delivery
 
/ Building a bridge #26  
Interesting rear sandboxes and homemade cab.

Bruce
 
/ Building a bridge #27  
Yes, when a truck returns and still has a partial load, the company pours into these forms and sells them. It's better than just dumping the 'crete which would make a big mess day after day year afre year. The one concrete place closest to me charges $75 and I would have to pick-up.....which is a no go since my FEL only lifts 2600lbs.....so yeah $75 delivered is great.
 
/ Building a bridge #28  
The land around your creek looks wet and soggy. Are you sure you can put a foundation on each side that won't shift or settle?

I sure wouldn't put money on it.

I'd say figure out how you will support the bridge, then decide what to make it out of. Oh, and up your budget. Significantly. 14,000 lbs is no laughing matter on a home made bridge.
 
/ Building a bridge #29  
I have an aging wooden bridge that needs to be replaced (mushrooms are growing out of the deck!). I thought of just doing one of the wood forestry bridges, but don't want something that will just rot away in a few years (or even a decade). That is my main beef with the "temporary" forestry bridge designs; they aren't intended to last much (if any) beyond the current job. That is why I am holding out for a steel-framed structure like a shipping flat deck, flat deck trailer or rail car. As a last resort (if I can't find a ready-made, used deck), I may have to build it myself up from bare steel beams or truck frame rails.
 
/ Building a bridge #30  
I have an aging wooden bridge that needs to be replaced (mushrooms are growing out of the deck!). I thought of just doing one of the wood forestry bridges, but don't want something that will just rot away in a few years (or even a decade). That is my main beef with the "temporary" forestry bridge designs; they aren't intended to last much (if any) beyond the current job. That is why I am holding out for a steel-framed structure like a shipping flat deck, flat deck trailer or rail car. As a last resort (if I can't find a ready-made, used deck), I may have to build it myself up from bare steel beams or truck frame rails.


There is a few company's in Colorado, that build bridges from rail cars, from what iirc, they ship over rail or semi too. Mat get some ideas from their website.

about

Bridgedecks - JFSRailcar.com
 
/ Building a bridge #31  


No clue how to even try and calculate how much weight those bridges will carry or even weigh themselves! :eek: almost looks like something that would collapse under it's own weight! Really great photos tho of the old style just build it rather than design it and then build it. I can bet the loggers did these bridges as they cut to get deeper.

Mark
 
/ Building a bridge #32  
and when the job was done they probably loaded them up and shipped them out with the rest...

Considering the OP's total bridge budget, this idea might not work for him, but I have seen people protect bridge abutments and culvert ends by stacking unopened premixed concrete bags "brick" style, with chunks of re-bar driven down through them from the top. Perhaps it's something he could do later to help protect it.
 
/ Building a bridge #33  
a little digging, a bunch of gravel and then some fast-set hydro cement/concrete and ford your way across ??
 
/ Building a bridge #34  
Interesting idea.
You could make a roadbed with grooves across it for the water to flow through.
By grooves, I mean like 4" wide and 12" or more deep. You could get a truck or
tractor across, but not a compact tractor or lawnmower (you would need large diameter
tires to cross the grooves - a motorcycle or quad could make it though)
 
/ Building a bridge #36  
qwkimnh3hknzb5ofcmck.jpg
Lowes sells a 10' x 12" section of plastic pipe for $150 each. Not sure what concrete pipe cost is.
 
/ Building a bridge #37  
Do not use phone poles. They really are not very strong, especially at that span or even half that. No way in heck I'd drive a backhoe over a bridge built that way. For reference, I built a little bridge in the woods when I was about 14 using two large phone poles and it only spanned about 10'. Had to drive a small tractor over it once (IH 454, about 5000lbs) and it bowed a good bit under the load.

No matter what way you go you are looking at a lot of concrete and/or steel to do this properly and safely. I've built several bridges, fords, culverts etc for customers and a span that far is not something to mess around with. You are probably looking at four 40' I beams somewhere in the 12-18" range, and good solid concrete abutments on both shore, possibly supports in the middle as well. A project like that could go north of $10K real quick. The semi bed would be a good option if you can find one.

Now, that said, I'd go for either a ford or low water bridge. The ford is probably your best option and cheapest. You have a backhoe, so start on the side you can access and dig down to get a nice road down to water level. Bring in some good sized rock, 357 or larger and start lining your roadway with it and building your way across. If you widen out the stream there you can make it a shallower crossing. Depending on how deep it is it may take a good bit of rock, but it can be done. Make sure to keep a plenty wide base in the underwater section and try to make it as unobtrusive to the grade of the stream bottom as possible, otherwise it could blow out in a heavy flood. If your budget allows, you could pour a concrete wall along the lower side of the ford to help keep everything in place.
 
/ Building a bridge #38  
Do not use phone poles. They really are not very strong, especially at that span or even half that. No way in heck I'd drive a backhoe over a bridge built that way. For reference, I built a little bridge in the woods when I was about 14 using two large phone poles and it only spanned about 10'. Had to drive a small tractor over it once (IH 454, about 5000lbs) and it bowed a good bit under the load.

No matter what way you go you are looking at a lot of concrete and/or steel to do this properly and safely. I've built several bridges, fords, culverts etc for customers and a span that far is not something to mess around with. You are probably looking at four 40' I beams somewhere in the 12-18" range, and good solid concrete abutments on both shore, possibly supports in the middle as well. A project like that could go north of $10K real quick. The semi bed would be a good option if you can find one.

Now, that said, I'd go for either a ford or low water bridge. The ford is probably your best option and cheapest. You have a backhoe, so start on the side you can access and dig down to get a nice road down to water level. Bring in some good sized rock, 357 or larger and start lining your roadway with it and building your way across. If you widen out the stream there you can make it a shallower crossing. Depending on how deep it is it may take a good bit of rock, but it can be done. Make sure to keep a plenty wide base in the underwater section and try to make it as unobtrusive to the grade of the stream bottom as possible, otherwise it could blow out in a heavy flood. If your budget allows, you could pour a concrete wall along the lower side of the ford to help keep everything in place.
 
/ Building a bridge #39  
Photo_0_Original_Bridge.jpgPhoto_4_Footing_Before_Granite_Pour.jpgPhoto_15_Abutments awaiting planks.pg.jpgPhoto_18_Planks being positioned onto abutments.jpgPhoto_20_Planks in position on abutments.jpgPhoto_32_Finished bridge with security chain.jpg

Slicer1972, I had a need to build a significant structure to replace an old, termite-eaten timber bridge spanning about 12 metres (see pictures). The new bridge led to the site for our new house so had to be substantial, to carry the weight of a full concrete truck (22 tons) plus a full fire truck (16 tons) if the need arose!!. The build involved a contractor putting in reinforced abutments on either side, down to granite bedrock and then we used 3 pre-stressed concrete beams as the span. These were cheaply available from a concrete manufacturer and are used for building car parks - REALLY strong and in long lengths. They were lifted into place by an excavator and then set up with a concrete slab over the top. The bridge has now withstood three BIG floods (over the deck), and some really heavy loads. All up, the result is an engineered bridge with a cost of about $30,000 - Perhaps more expensive than you are after but a really great solution to our problem for access to our home into the future. Peter G.
 
/ Building a bridge #40  
PeterG, that's an awesome looking bridge and a great way to make our first post on TBN!!!! Welcome :)

Eddie
 

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