Building a flatbed for my F350

[sixdogs]

Here's one I built for a classic truck I had for a few years. 10'6" long x 84" wide. Rough cut 2x10 hemlock for that old look. Color matched paint to body. Mainly built as a show truck. Won a few trophy's for best in class original truck.
Your's is progressing very well.

That is a good looking job that fits the truck. Is your bed sitting on rails to raise the height?

 

[ovrszd]

I've been watching reviews on YouTube regarding those $700 Cutters and they seem to do just fine for the limited amount of use I will put them through

Yep. Compared to what you are doing now, you'll love em!!!

 

[George2615]

That is a good looking job that fits the truck. Is your bed sitting on rails to raise the height?

The bed was built and sits on 2 - 10' pressure treated 4x4's and uses 1/4" flat plates with 12 threaded rods, 6 on each side to clamp it down to the frame. On the back of the frame there is 3/8" flat plate attaching the bed and frame so it can't slide forward in case of sudden stops. However, trucks of that era were not known for sudden stops and even though the brakes were like new you need to anticipate braking ahead of time. The truck actually only had 7,000 miles on it since 1949. It was a fire dept water tank truck on an island. It is mainly for show now.

 

[sixdogs]

The bed was built and sits on 2 - 10' pressure treated 4x4's and uses 1/4" flat plates with 12 threaded rods, 6 on each side to clamp it down to the frame. On the back of the frame there is 3/8" flat plate attaching the bed and frame so it can't slide forward in case of sudden stops. However, trucks of that era were not known for sudden stops and even though the brakes were like new you need to anticipate braking ahead of time. The truck actually only had 7,000 miles on it since 1949. It was a fire dept water tank truck on an island. It is mainly for show now.

I've got a 1967 Ford N600 snub nose with 10,000 original miles (grain truck) that I had planned to put a pickup body on but is just too much to do a first class job. Instead, I'm going with a simple flatbed typical of the era. Your build looks excellent and I'm going with something very similar.

 

[George2615]

I've got a 1967 Ford N600 snub nose with 10,000 original miles (grain truck) that I had planned to put a pickup body on but is just too much to do a first class job. Instead, I'm going with a simple flatbed typical of the era. Your build looks excellent and I'm going with something very similar.

Here's a local truck for sale I was considering to buy but went a different route.

 

[sixdogs]

They sure look good with a short wheelbase and P/U bed on them. Mine was a long frame truck that I cut a chunk out of the frame on to shorten it.

 

[TSO]

Finished the bulkhead outer framing (still need to attach the front plate material and inner cross member)




Figured it was time for a test fit.






Now need to make provisions for the fuel filler ... Thanks for pointing that out, it does need some adjustment.

 

[kebo]

That looks great so far!! What kind of wood are you going to use for the bed?? Oak, PT 2X?, or maybe marine grade plywood sheathing? I am guessing you will be painting it black?? I notice it looks like you added some stake pockets that are welded on the inside of the outside frame rail, is that right?? If so, NICE touch! Also, I would consider adding some rear facing LED lights on top of the headache rack to light up the bed when you're working at night, and maybe weld some guards over them for protection, so they won't get knocked off by limbs, etc. And while you're at it, I would custom install a rear view back up camera, just for the finishing touch. I like spending other peoples money lol. Keep up the good work, I'm anxious to see the finished product!

 

[TSO]

That looks great so far!! What kind of wood are you going to use for the bed?? Oak, PT 2X?, or maybe marine grade plywood sheathing? I am guessing you will be painting it black?? I notice it looks like you added some stake pockets that are welded on the inside of the outside frame rail, is that right?? If so, NICE touch! Also, I would consider adding some rear facing LED lights on top of the headache rack to light up the bed when you're working at night, and maybe weld some guards over them for protection, so they won't get knocked off by limbs, etc. And while you're at it, I would custom install a rear view back up camera, just for the finishing touch. I like spending other peoples money lol. Keep up the good work, I'm anxious to see the finished product!

Thanks. I'll be using treated pine, 2x8 or 2x10. It's a work truck so that'll be the best route, allows for cheap and easy replacement boards when needed.

I'll take the lighting suggestions under consideration.

 

[GLyford]

If you're using PT, a lot of the modern treatments promote rust like crazy.

On the last project like that I did, I used rubberized roll flashing like they use on doors and windows to put under wherever the boards would touch. Time will tell if it actually helps or just eases my conscience, but I rest better knowing it is there...