Building a hydraulic log lift for splitter

[jimmysisson]

Yep, I remember Gary Davis's splitter now, it's the one makes me NOT want to post photos of my rusty old beast. Beautiful work.
Don't forget when you make your first split through a big block, you still have the halves to wrestle. Picture where they are when the ram kisses the wedge, and the block halves are past the wedge. That's what saves your back - not having to bend down for the pieces time after time. Gary's mention of the halfway position is right on - that's for those rounds that are too big for the stove but don't really need the lift, just a table.
I also like a little friction on the table surface (mine uses steel walkway scrap) so you can arrange the unsplit rounds ready for the ram. It's good if the lift table slopes down to the I beam when it's full up, so the big blocks roll toward you and the beam. But, you need a table position also. Figure that out ahead and you'll be happy with the rig.
As for a vertical unit, I always pictured being bent over almost all the time, so I'm interested to hear they aren't back breakers. Do you kneel?
Jim

 

[rdbrumfield]

I built a splitter several years ago. Been splitting with it for over 20yrs. What I did is make it a three point so I could move it around easily and give it stability. I have a T knife so I don't split the block up the middle, but take the bottom off the block and let it down for the next push and so on.
I have a hyd winch with an A frame that is about 9ft high. I can easily lift a 6ft block with the tongs over the knife. With a 5in ram I hardly ever have a stoppage.
I am in the process of putting a Vtwin kohler with a pump out of a dumptruck. Will give me higher ram and winch speeds. Like it is with two fellows can do a cord and a half an hour.
The best part of the T knife and the winch is that when you have that hairy wood that is so hard to get apart, you can push part way through till it is split, then pull the top off tearing the hair and let it down for the next push.

Using a winch and line makes maneuvering the blocks much easier. Of course, using the winch to pull logs out of the stack for sawing is a plus too.

 

[jwmorris]

As for a vertical unit, I always pictured being bent over almost all the time, so I'm interested to hear they aren't back breakers. Do you kneel?

Yes, a $4 set of knee pads and a few friends, one runs the valve another to roll the logs to the machine and the last one stacks the split wood. Before I built it I had only used horizontal splitters, so I made it so it could be used as a horizontal or vertical splitter. The vertical method fills the trucks up with wood quite a bit faster, with less lifting.

 

[GaryBDavis]

I have a T knife so I don't split the block up the middle, but take the bottom off the block and let it down for the next push and so on.

The best part of the T knife and the winch is that when you have that hairy wood that is so hard to get apart, you can push part way through till it is split, then pull the top off tearing the hair and let it down for the next push.

I gotta see some pictures of this T knife setup. I've seen the checker board pattern that the commercial firewood processors use, but I don't have enough power or frame size to withstand that kind of pressure. I have a vision in my mind of what yours looks like, but we all want pictures!

 

[rdbrumfield]

Gary, I will try to put some pics up. My vertical knife is only about 6 inches high with a horizontal one across the top. that way I get firewood size each time I push through. Of course with the big stuff I resplit the slabs that come out of either side.
I do have some pics that I put here a long time ago, will find them and get them out
As I am in the rebuilding stage, the one thing I need to change is to raise the ram so it pushes at the level where the vertical and horizontal knives cross. Right now it tends to want to lift the ram up off the rail. I have had to replace the bolts that hold the slider a few times. Of course, pushing with 35 ton through some of the knarliest maple and spruce knots aren't kind to any machine.

 

[GaryBDavis]

The slider is probably one of the more difficult parts to build right. I broke my slider at about 100 hours on the machine. By then, I had acquired a mill and was able to redesign how I built the bottom pieces that hold the slider to the beam. I think it will now last a bit longer.

My slider doesn't have much play in it and I no longer use the grease fittings I built into the slider body. I now use lube that come in a spray can. It is a lighter weight grease/oil and has rust inhibitors. I haven't noticed much wear on the beam or slider anyway, but it helps the slider work less hard.

I also have a metal strap that holds the hydraulic cylinder to the beam. It's mounted towards the front end of the cylinder and helps hold it position when the slider is furtherest out. Otherwise, the cylinder tends to bow when the rod is all the way out and you are under max pressure.

I'm looking forward to your pictures.

 

[rdbrumfield]

ok, found the disc, now to try to post them.

 

[rdbrumfield]

As you an see it is a conglomeration of stuff thrown together, but it works great. like I said I am changing to having it self contained, but will keep the 3pt for moving it and stablization. It will free up the tractor however once planted, just won't be yarding on any logs, just the blocks.
As you can see by the bent steel on the knife, it has taken some abuse, but still does the job.
Good luck on yours, hopefully this will give you some ideas.
Just noticed you notes on the flexing of your ram. Mine has quite a healthy rod and I haven't noticed any flex there, although it sure can flex that I beam. The one I am splicing in will be much heavier.

 

[turnkey4099]

Jimmysisson's last statement is why I prefer a vertical log splitter to the horizontal with lift. You still have to roll the log around with both but the vertical is faster and you don't have to bend over to pick up the wood that needs to be split further.

But you do have to either bend over or be down on the ground for each and every split.

Me, I just added skinny (6" wide) in/out tables to my 20 yoa one, used to just let the splits pile up to the working level on the off side and not let the unsplit parts fall to the ground on my side. Not a whole lot of bending over to pick up partly split chunks. Haven't tried the new additions yet.

No hydo lift planned. I jsut bust 'em to lifting size with wedge/sledge maul, usually just one split per big chunk.

Harry K

 

[rdbrumfield]

good point, I think I will add a pan behind the knife. any wood that needs to be resplit will be right there before lowering the larger part. any that don't need it will just go off the end with the next push. Won't be any lifting at all. Great idea, thank you.