Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

[pacerron]

Back on the cost topic, If you have an allowance, doesn't that mean that is already in his price, up to that amount? Wouldn't think you add it in addition to his price.

Yes...
The estimated cost of construction on the eplans.com site indicates an average bottom price of the $139,500. You can correct that a little by entering your zip code but it still doesn't mean much other than a draw to get folks to investigate further and perhaps buy the plan or start getting local bids.
The local contractors just use that price as a ground zero playing field. I imagine most of the stuff listed as extra were there prior to the deal being signed up front. The ones that say "allowance" are for items that have not been chosen by the homeowner yet so a up to figure is put in just to make a preliminary total, or in many cases to use to get bank financing.
Changes after the deal is signed, like the adding a 2 car garage, or changing siding, etc. are the real changes.
Taking off the apron in front is a deduction. Had it been a bank financed build, taking off stuff of any significance or value like the apron without showing, getting approved, additions of equal value, might effect the loan papers and result in additional charges from the lender.
Like one wise contributor to the thread said, "your better off not to change stuff after the deal is signed."

But... on the other hand, if it is something you want, why would you invest so much money without making the change?
We all usually have enough ( wish I had done it another ways ) after living in a new home for a while, as it is.
Ron

 

[mjncad]

Without looking at the plan Pete chose from eplans.com; I'm going to make some assumptions as to some of the things that drove the price up.

A lot of these eplans.com, et al sites base their costs for slab on grade construction. Pete has a has walkout basement, which upped the price. Pete is using better quality materials than "builder grade" stuff. Pete's builder is taking greater care than the average slapdash K-B Homes tract development. Pete has a wrap-around deck that has upped the price. Unfortunately the change orders are driving up the cost, especially since they are happening during the construction phase and not the design phase.

Now whether these items and other things I haven't mentioned or hadn't thought of are enough to justify the price increase is debatable.

Was the land price part of the house cost? I doubt it since it's usually a separate item for small builders.

 

[pacerron]

Peter,
I notice you have a substantial up charge for granite countertops.
Is that natural granite, engineered granite, or engineered quartz?
Natural granite is in slabs, usually leaning against each other when you pick it out and tag it as your top material.
You will see sun fading if it has been partially shaded by a piece in front.
There are pros and cons for each material to consider.
Ron

 

[pacerron]

Without looking at the plan Pete chose from eplans.com; I'm going to make some assumptions as to some of the things that drove the price up.

A lot of these eplans.com, et al sites base their costs for slab on grade construction. Pete has a has walkout basement, which upped the price. Pete is using better quality materials than "builder grade" stuff. Pete's builder is taking greater care than the average slapdash K-B Homes tract development. Pete has a wrap-around deck that has upped the price. Unfortunately the change orders are driving up the cost, especially since they are happening during the construction phase and not the design phase.

Now whether these items and other things I haven't mentioned or hadn't thought of are enough to justify the price increase is debatable.

Was the land price part of the house cost? I doubt it since it's usually a separate item for small builders.

MJNCAD,
Go to eplans.com and select 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom, 1500-1600 sf That will take you right to it within a page or so.
As I recall it was with finished basement. Been a while since I looked.
Some interesting designs in there. Don't let your wife look or you may be busy:laughing:

Time to go plant onions here.
Ron

 

[BuilderML]

Peter,
Just another idea you might want to think about. Have you considered using mold/mildew resistant drywall in the whole house and not just the bath/kitchen area.
For a few more dollars a sheet i think its money well spent.
OK now to your vaulted ceiling area. Here is what i would do. For starters i would not use drywall as a means of keeping dust out and i sure would not use it as a vapor barrier as it is not one.
First i would start with vapor barrier applied to the trusses.
Next i would install the wood ceiling.
Then i would do a spray foam air seal 1" thick sprayed directly to the vapor barrier.
Then i would do the blown in above that.
Just something to think about.

 

[pclausen]

Day 74

Front view of the house. We're thinking we will not bring the block all the way up to the roof extending out from the garage, but add a slate cap now and run a stone column up on the corner for support. The wall on the right would of course be brought up to match. What do you guys think?

View from inside. It would get very dark to close it up all the way I think.

Foam is done. Turned out nice I think.

Garage

Living room

Sun room

They even did the fireplace

Basement

And they drilled support columns for the stamped concrete porch

 

[FairfaxStu]

Front view of the house. We're thinking we will not bring the block all the way up to the roof extending out from the garage, but add a slate cap now and run a stone column up on the corner for support. The wall on the right would of course be brought up to match. What do you guys think?

I don't like the top 3 courses of block at all. I think it should all be the same height unless you want it to look like a prison.

Just my 2 cents - Stu.

 

[FairfaxStu]

And another thing, isn't your mom going to be doing some serious gardening in this area? If so, the added light from taking off the top 3 courses would be beneficial. To be honest, I could see a wall like that in my [overcrowded] neck of the woods but not back in the woods where this house is located.
-Stu

 

[pacerron]

And another thing, isn't your mom going to be doing some serious gardening in this area? If so, the added light from taking off the top 3 courses would be beneficial. To be honest, I could see a wall like that in my [overcrowded] neck of the woods but not back in the woods where this house is located.
-Stu

I totally agree. The walls should not be any higher than the stone on the front of the house. Removing 3 courses between the front corner of the garage and the entrance corner would do just about that with a thin cap. You can see this from the pic taken from inside the house front bedroom window if you follow the mortar lines.
Viewing from the outside at the front is not a good way to judge at this time, since there is a lot of fill to be added to get to finish grade. I think the stick out to the right of the garage being that same height would keep balance and still block the view of the
generator, propane tank and maybe the meter and switch box.
My wife said last night, "Oh, that wall is too high"
She also sees a conflict of visual integration with the fake beam coming out from the garage that creates a separate triangular open space above it.. I don't think it would be needed structurally if a post came up to the beam under the long run of the porch, as you mentioned above. I didn't really pay attention to how they built that detail though so you would need to talk to the builder about removing it.
There may be other ways to blend the space. Perhaps the architect could jump in here with some ideas?
Ron

 

[MarkV]

Think I agree with Stu and Ron. That wall hides the entry too much for my tastes. Just isn't as inviting. Overall I think you are getting a great build and thanks for sharing.

MarkV