Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #891  
I would hope that they would not be installing any drywall under the pine boards. So yes you are correct is saying that no taped joints would be on the ceiling in that area. I would say that the other rooms in the house are getting drywall and what i stated would apply to those rooms.
No problem MacLawn anytime.:thumbsup:
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #892  
I would hope that they would not be installing any drywall under the pine boards. So yes you are correct is saying that no taped joints would be on the ceiling in that area. I would say that the other rooms in the house are getting drywall and what i stated would apply to those rooms.
No problem MacLawn anytime.:thumbsup:

Depends on the code. The T&G on the pine is also for expansion and contraction of the boards, as well as profile, so fits a bit loose, just like panels in panel doors. I doubt if they want cellulose insulation dust showing on the living side of the ceiling in time. They may have a plastic vapor barrier depending on the final way they decide to insulate above the ceiling but you know how that stuff gets torn, particularly if it is just on the back side of the boards with nothing in between and the cellulose on top.
Your way of not nailing the ceiling within 16" or so of a sidewall has always been the case, even w/o clips. The ceiling is put up first and floats on the end, as it were, and is held up by the sidewall sheet rock.
Have you ever used No-Coat inside and outside corners? It is used in commercial structures all the time. Makes a great corner that doesn't crack. A little pricey I suppose but no call backs, so is it in the long run.
I imagine the crew on Mrs. Clausen's house will do it the way they are used too, and according to bid, in any case.
New methods in unfamiliar hands can often make a mess.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #893  
The ceiling always get nailed on the edges when not using clips thats why the clips are used in place of nailing on the edge and yes the walls do get butted to the ceiling. If what your calling a "No-Coat corner" is what i would know as a fiberglass or plastic insert inside a paper faced tape. Yes my drywall sub uses it. It normally comes in a roll and you fold it to fit your profile. It is normally used on 45 degree intersections and not 90 degree they have other products for a 90 degree. It should also be used with what i know as dura-bond and not regular joint compound
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days
  • Thread Starter
#894  
No pics today guys. They basially did some backfilling around the house and spread the #57 in front of the garage. There was also a crew on-site today caulking up all the hardy trim to get it ready to paint.

BuilderML, I printed out the 3 steps you mentioned and gave it to the builder when I meet with him this afternoon. He wasn't familiar with the suggestions, but then he subs out the drywall, so he was going to discuss it with them.

They do plan to install drywall on the vaulted ceiling initially, and then add the T&G on top of it. Had to do with code and containing the cellulose he said.

Tomorrow the insulation guy are supposed to come and blow in the foam insulation. That normally means nobody else will be onsite.

As I was talking to the builder, it began sleeting, which is why I decided not bother with any pics. This sure is some crazy spring weather for sure.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #895  
No pics today guys. They basially did some backfilling around the house and spread the #57 in front of the garage. There was also a crew on-site today caulking up all the hardy trim to get it ready to paint.

BuilderML, I printed out the 3 steps you mentioned and gave it to the builder when I meet with him this afternoon. He wasn't familiar with the suggestions, but then he subs out the drywall, so he was going to discuss it with them.

They do plan to install drywall on the vaulted ceiling initially, and then add the T&G on top of it. Had to do with code and containing the cellulose he said.

Tomorrow the insulation guy are supposed to come and blow in the foam insulation. That normally means nobody else will be onsite.

As I was talking to the builder, it began sleeting, which is why I decided not bother with any pics. This sure is some crazy spring weather for sure.

Peter,
Glad you got on. I'm tiring of this drywall corner crack discussion.
Since you showed the builder the tin stuff you may want to show him this or at least read it yourself:

http://www.certainteed.com/resources/CTG_No-Coat_Brochure_Eng.pdf

I'm not promoting this product or affiliated with the company in any way.
It can be used for inside, outside, angle and about any other change of direction you can think of such as arches, bullnose, etc.
It can be used with regular mud as shown in the brochure.
There probably are U-tube videos.

Glad to hear there will be PB behind the knotty pine. If not, you would have a lot of air leak and other problems.

Too bad you can't suit up and watch the foamer. It would probably make you appreciate not being one!
I can't really tell from the pictures if they took the tar paper off the ridge slot or not. Are you foaming the underside of the roof and the ridge cap is just for show or is it and soffit vents going to be an active part of the system?
Ron
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #896  
Back on the cost topic, If you have an allowance, doesn't that mean that is already in his price, up to that amount? Wouldn't think you add it in addition to his price.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #897  
Yes, an allowance item is included in a contract price. If you go above or below the allowance, the end price should adjust accordingly.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #898  
Yes, an allowance item is included in a contract price. If you go above or below the allowance, the end price should adjust accordingly.
And in this case, they (for example) have many of the appliances, so the appliance allowance is likely to go unused.

Aaron Z
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #899  
Correct, and they should be under (and credited for) the amount under the allowance. When I was contracting larger projects, we'd just keep track of ALL the allowance overages/underages as a total, and deal with it on the final contract invoice.

Unless it was a LARGE overage, then a change order was issued/signed.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #900  
Back on the cost topic, If you have an allowance, doesn't that mean that is already in his price, up to that amount? Wouldn't think you add it in addition to his price.

Yes...
The estimated cost of construction on the eplans.com site indicates an average bottom price of the $139,500. You can correct that a little by entering your zip code but it still doesn't mean much other than a draw to get folks to investigate further and perhaps buy the plan or start getting local bids.
The local contractors just use that price as a ground zero playing field. I imagine most of the stuff listed as extra were there prior to the deal being signed up front. The ones that say "allowance" are for items that have not been chosen by the homeowner yet so a up to figure is put in just to make a preliminary total, or in many cases to use to get bank financing.
Changes after the deal is signed, like the adding a 2 car garage, or changing siding, etc. are the real changes.
Taking off the apron in front is a deduction. Had it been a bank financed build, taking off stuff of any significance or value like the apron without showing, getting approved, additions of equal value, might effect the loan papers and result in additional charges from the lender.
Like one wise contributor to the thread said, "your better off not to change stuff after the deal is signed."

But... on the other hand, if it is something you want, why would you invest so much money without making the change?
We all usually have enough ( wish I had done it another ways ) after living in a new home for a while, as it is.
Ron
 

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