If I have a leak I think it's minor or only showing when water levels are higher. Regardless I've been looking into some bentonite suppliers. The water is so low at the moment I'm considering emptying and mucking out, then going ahead and tilling in bentonite while the it's low and the weather pattern looks to be dry as far as the forecast can predict. No would be the perfect time to do it. If I do I'll probably put in a couple of retention areas and drainage where the highest watershed is going to be to catch some of the silt for future watershed. Also going to need to add another 20ft stick of 10" pvc if I do so I can take the muck off the backside of the dam and not cover my outlet.
Building Lake Corona
- Thread starter jk96
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Good time to build a dock too!!!!
Tinhack
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I was under the impression that bentonite is to be spread over the bottom and left to swell and fill the cracks as it filled with water. That's how my uncle did his pond. "We" (I helped him dig it and finish it) spread the bentonite to a thickness of about 1/4-1/2" and then light-sprayed it with fine mist water to keep the wind from blowing it away. He never did anything else that I know of.
Edit: The bentonite we get down here is like talcum powder fine.
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
My understanding of Bentonite is that it swells when it's wet, and when that happens, it seals up the looser soil that doesn't seal out water.
In order to get it to work, it needs to be mixed with the soil, over the entire pond.
The question is in how much do you apply, and how deep do you mix it?
In order to get it to work, it needs to be mixed with the soil, over the entire pond.
The question is in how much do you apply, and how deep do you mix it?
Everything I've read from some of the suppliers sites is that on a dry pond it should be tilled into the soil at a 4 to 6" depth.
ponytug
Super Member
I'm sure that working the bentonite in is a better way. I have read of a usage that spreads bentonite in the pond and allows the bentonite to be settle down and be sucked into the pores, sealing the pond. I have zero experience doing that.
All the best,
Peter
All the best,
Peter
Online calculator from lonestar minerals shows I would need 39,000 lbs so I would just order a full flatbed of their 3,000lb supersacks which would be 45,000 lbs. Supersacks are opened at the bottom then drive with the trackloader to spread. Could be tricky on the slopes.
I talked to a pond builder that warned me that bentonite rarely works. He was assuming I was using the above method on an already filled pond. He did not have much insite on the tilling method on a dry pond as he said he did not take any pond jobs where he felt soil was suspect.
ponytug
Super Member
I agree that a super sack on a slope would definitely be "tricky". Can you rent/make a super sack stand that would let you fill your bucket from the sack? I wouldn't want to be using a super sack on a slope for the tip over risks.
All the best,
Peter
Friend of mine has a huge 96" bucket he uses for mulch. Holds 1.25 cubic yards. I would probably borrow it for spreading on the slopes.