Building The Outdoor Stairs

[ArtMech]

The side look of the stairs. Formwork removed.

A look from underneath.

The look of the two top stairs. The upper one got a test putty, the lower one like the rest ones will be grinded and also puttied.

 

[Oaktree]

I notice on several steps there's a shallow indentation where the riser meets the tread below it from the forms. What do you plan to do with that? I'd imagine it would trap water and freeze in the winter.

 

[ArtMech]

You're right. Recently I have tested my grinding tools on another project I have carried out weeks ago. It is also the stairs on my parents' tomb, which I also concreted. The diamond disc worked great, the job took not much time, just it's too much of dust. Some watering helped. Since we'll have some more comparatively warm days remaining before winter time, I hope I'll be in time to even the surfaces of those stairs this year. The puttying process will be left for next year.
Anyway, thank you for your observation.

 

[EddieWalker]

Can tile be installed over the steps? That's too much to grind in my opinion, it will just create a mess that will be impossible to get flat. Tile would be slippery unless you could find a special tile used for steps in cold climates. I've seen them before, but couldn't guess where to buy them.

 

[ArtMech]

Can tile be installed over the steps? That's too much to grind in my opinion, it will just create a mess that will be impossible to get flat. Tile would be slippery unless you could find a special tile used for steps in cold climates. I've seen them before, but couldn't guess where to buy them.

Eddie, my grinder works great and quite fast. I'll seek to make each stair under slight angle to let water to go down.
Even if I would install tile, the surfaces should be grinded, because they are very rough. In addition, the tiles accumulate moisture among and under them which freezes, experts say. Therefore, it is also not very good for open-air structures.
Thanks for advice.

 

[ljjhouser]

Just a suggestion - that space could be filled easily. I used a product called pli-stix. I think Ace hardware carries it here. It is a somewhat hard plastic material that you heat with a propane torch and it melts into the space. It cools and seals the space - forms a hard plastic seal. I also have gotten it from Home Depot here.
I used it and it worked pretty well. There are youtube videos about using it. It comes in black for asphalt and gray for concrete. Be sure to use the concrete one if you do. I think any product that stays in place would fill the space and prevent the accumulation of water, even if it did not seal.

I think Pli-Stix comes in about 30' strip for about $20. Best Wishes.

Oh, that top step sure looks smooth now. Might be slick. Don't make them too smooth. If smooth, even a light frost can make them dangerous.

 

[ArtMech]

Just a suggestion - that space could be filled easily. I used a product called pli-stix. I think Ace hardware carries it here. It is a somewhat hard plastic material that you heat with a propane torch and it melts into the space. It cools and seals the space - forms a hard plastic seal. I also have gotten it from Home Depot here.
I used it and it worked pretty well. There are youtube videos about using it. It comes in black for asphalt and gray for concrete. Be sure to use the concrete one if you do. I think any product that stays in place would fill the space and prevent the accumulation of water, even if it did not seal.

I think Pli-Stix comes in about 30' strip for about $20. Best Wishes.

Oh, that top step sure looks smooth now. Might be slick. Don't make them too smooth. If smooth, even a light frost can make them dangerous.

It seems to me that the only way to beware slippage in the winter on the outside stairs is ... a handrail.

 

[Hay Dude]

All icy stairs are slippery, you can always keep a bucket of sand at the ready with a scoop nearby. You’re right, the handrails will make those stairs look and feel much safer.

 

[ArtMech]

Lets step aside a bit out of topic and make an interruption in our stair building process.

I know you fellows see in the pics some lack of quality on those stairs (cracks...). I've really made a mistake in one stage of concreting. But I thought it'll be even worse. Anyway I'm still optimistic. The mistakes can be fixed. Just needs more "expensive" time for that.

I'm very busy this year. That's why I'm visiting this site not often. I have individual projects with the clients' tractors, my home house (in a city) balconies' renovation, which we have just finished, my own tractor modifications, and many more jobs and thoughts.

Examples, which say more then the words, I guess.

A client purchases a 3 pt bucket from me, but wants it to be hydraulically operated. That's what it had to be arranged.

My home house in Vilnius. It was built in 1912. This is the first renovation of the balconies' since then. Totally 10 units. I'm a board member of the house community.

I'm still shocked with what happened in Ukraine. I'm in close touch with the people there. The feeling is like Muscovites are knocking at my door too.

Since the winter comes along, some jobs will be postponed, some of them will be done, then there will be time to post remarks on what was done good or bad, to describe a mistake in concrete pouring. And why has it happened.

Thank you all for the support, advices and interest shown in this thread.

 

[EddieWalker]

That tractor is crazy. Tires say it goes one way, steering wheel says it goes the other way. I've never seen anything like it!!!!