Bulldozer
- Thread starter jshbryan
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Where are you located? One of the very best places for undercairage parts is Cypress Equipment up in Pittsburg TX. I've talked to dealers in Dallas, Ft. Worth all the way down to just above Houston who all go to Cypress.
When I through my track, I brought the track up to them on my trailer and they repaird it that day for $100.
I was real close to buying a 1969 Cat D7 before I bought mine. The sprockets for that were going to be around $500 from Holt Cat here in Tyler. You might find a cheaper deal someplace then the dealer, but I'd check with Cat before wasting a bunch of time running around looking for them. You might also talk to the mechanics to see what's involved in pulling the sprocket.
With the sprocket so far gone, you really need to look at the bushings. The sprokect makes contact with the bushings, which are part of the tracks. This is where the real money is spent as it's not something you can do yourself. Bushings have to be pressed into place. They can be turned, which means taking off the track and bringing it to a shop like Cypress, They will rotate the bushing 180 degress. The worn side is no longer in contact with the sprocket, and now you have brand new bushings. A dozer that old with a worn sprocket probably has had it's bushings turned. They are probably as worn as the sprocket if I was to guess.
If these are so far gone that you can't run the tractor, I'd estimeate $5,000 on up for new bushings. The age of your tractor is a big mystery, so it could be allot more, or you could get lucky and there might be an aftermarket replacement that's cheaper.
Do you have a way to pick up and load tracks that weight 2,000 pounds each?
The rails are about gone too. You will probably be ok on what you have left, but if the bushings need replacing, it's foolish not to do it all.
Eddie
When I through my track, I brought the track up to them on my trailer and they repaird it that day for $100.
I was real close to buying a 1969 Cat D7 before I bought mine. The sprockets for that were going to be around $500 from Holt Cat here in Tyler. You might find a cheaper deal someplace then the dealer, but I'd check with Cat before wasting a bunch of time running around looking for them. You might also talk to the mechanics to see what's involved in pulling the sprocket.
With the sprocket so far gone, you really need to look at the bushings. The sprokect makes contact with the bushings, which are part of the tracks. This is where the real money is spent as it's not something you can do yourself. Bushings have to be pressed into place. They can be turned, which means taking off the track and bringing it to a shop like Cypress, They will rotate the bushing 180 degress. The worn side is no longer in contact with the sprocket, and now you have brand new bushings. A dozer that old with a worn sprocket probably has had it's bushings turned. They are probably as worn as the sprocket if I was to guess.
If these are so far gone that you can't run the tractor, I'd estimeate $5,000 on up for new bushings. The age of your tractor is a big mystery, so it could be allot more, or you could get lucky and there might be an aftermarket replacement that's cheaper.
Do you have a way to pick up and load tracks that weight 2,000 pounds each?
The rails are about gone too. You will probably be ok on what you have left, but if the bushings need replacing, it's foolish not to do it all.
Eddie
RobJ
Elite Member
Eddie makes perfect sense but you could also run it until it breaks...if it does, then fix it. Make sure the track is properly adjusted and go fo it. A little care by the operator goes a long way...on any piece of equipment.
You can also buy used parts in good shape all over the internet. But breaking down a track would require a couple men and FEL.
You can also buy used parts in good shape all over the internet. But breaking down a track would require a couple men and FEL.
machmeter62
Platinum Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2004
- Messages
- 638
Since some doubt has been presented to you because of the conditions of the sprockets; I would get an unbiased opinion of a "crawler guru" for peace of mind for the total operating condition of the tractor with his "test drive!" The conditiion of the clutches, transmission, leaks, and other pricey things. If those conditions are okay; then rationalize the cost of sprocket, pins, and bushings, and knowing the tractor will be reliable for the future work! I think used tractors of any type, are often glossed over with a new paint job? It will also help prevent any "dust-ups" in your marriage, with that coined phrase: ("I told you so!!")
RobJ
Elite Member
Here's one off Ebay. If you search ebay for dozers you can see everyone shows a picture of the drive sprokets. And they guess as to 50$ left, 75% left, etc.
You can see yours is very thin and sharp at the ends...
You can see yours is very thin and sharp at the ends...
machmeter62
Platinum Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2004
- Messages
- 638
From the photos, it looks like the track tensioners are adjustable, which would help prevent shedding a track; or would that just impede sprocket failure? But maybe the tensioners are self-adjusting?
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
That's a good picture that Rob posted.
What you need to look at are the ends of the points. The new on is flat, but on the one you want to buy, it's worn to a point. These are two totally different types of sprockets, but they all work the same.
The point itself isn't your real problem, it's the space between the points. On the new sprocket, it's a perfect "U" shape that will fit exactly with the bushing on the tracks.
On your worn sprocket, this space is very, very wide. Combine that with a very worn bushing that could be as much as half it's original size, and you have WAY too much slop.
When turning it, you risk having the tracks move around on the sprocket and the tracks coming off. From the wear on your pictures, this is either very likely, or soon will be.
Undercairages are rated by what percentage of material is left. When it gets to around 50% worn, it's time to replace the worn parts. Just guessing, I'd say you were in the 10 to 20% stage.
I'm gonna disagree with Rob on his recomendation to run it till it breaks. While I'm a big fan of that in some instances, this might not be one of those. Replaceing a track, or wore out components on a flat, open area is a thousand times easier then having to do it between two trees with others all twisted up all around you. I know this from experience. When I lost my track, I spent a day with the backhoe clearing out the area around it so I could work on it. I've also had this happen on hydraculic hoses. Swaping in a new hose is easy, but when your in the middle of a bush pile that you've tore up, just climbing off the tractor is dificult. Working on it is impossible.
Machmeter has a good point of having a third party look at the machine. Dozer and probably most heavy equipment operators are self appointed experts. If you talk to ten operators, every one will be an expert. Most will have never actually worked on a machine, but they still feel they know everything there is to know about them. Especially the machine they are used to running. If they don't know that model of machine, thier expertise is really limited to the basics, which is sort of what your already getting.
Go to the Cat dealer and talk to somebody in the parts department. Cat has guys that look at used machines for guys that are considering buying them. Years ago, this was free, but I don't know if it's in all areas, or if they still do it as a curtesy.
The dozer runs, it will run for awhile and probably get quite a bit of work done. What we're warning you about is that you also have a machine that is well past needing some very expesive, and highly needed repairs. The question is if you can get done what you want done without breaking down in the middle of nowhere? This is true with just about any used dozer. They all break down, just the newer ones don't do it as often as the older ones.
Eddie
What you need to look at are the ends of the points. The new on is flat, but on the one you want to buy, it's worn to a point. These are two totally different types of sprockets, but they all work the same.
The point itself isn't your real problem, it's the space between the points. On the new sprocket, it's a perfect "U" shape that will fit exactly with the bushing on the tracks.
On your worn sprocket, this space is very, very wide. Combine that with a very worn bushing that could be as much as half it's original size, and you have WAY too much slop.
When turning it, you risk having the tracks move around on the sprocket and the tracks coming off. From the wear on your pictures, this is either very likely, or soon will be.
Undercairages are rated by what percentage of material is left. When it gets to around 50% worn, it's time to replace the worn parts. Just guessing, I'd say you were in the 10 to 20% stage.
I'm gonna disagree with Rob on his recomendation to run it till it breaks. While I'm a big fan of that in some instances, this might not be one of those. Replaceing a track, or wore out components on a flat, open area is a thousand times easier then having to do it between two trees with others all twisted up all around you. I know this from experience. When I lost my track, I spent a day with the backhoe clearing out the area around it so I could work on it. I've also had this happen on hydraculic hoses. Swaping in a new hose is easy, but when your in the middle of a bush pile that you've tore up, just climbing off the tractor is dificult. Working on it is impossible.
Machmeter has a good point of having a third party look at the machine. Dozer and probably most heavy equipment operators are self appointed experts. If you talk to ten operators, every one will be an expert. Most will have never actually worked on a machine, but they still feel they know everything there is to know about them. Especially the machine they are used to running. If they don't know that model of machine, thier expertise is really limited to the basics, which is sort of what your already getting.
Go to the Cat dealer and talk to somebody in the parts department. Cat has guys that look at used machines for guys that are considering buying them. Years ago, this was free, but I don't know if it's in all areas, or if they still do it as a curtesy.
The dozer runs, it will run for awhile and probably get quite a bit of work done. What we're warning you about is that you also have a machine that is well past needing some very expesive, and highly needed repairs. The question is if you can get done what you want done without breaking down in the middle of nowhere? This is true with just about any used dozer. They all break down, just the newer ones don't do it as often as the older ones.
Eddie
EddieWalker said:
I agree with you. I'm just banking on the chance that I can get out of it what I need before it does.
If it does break before I am done, I may need to room with one of you for a while.
.