Bush Hog Blade Question

[Phred]

Most if this has already been said, but just to reinforce some of the other comments:

I have tried picking mine up with the FEL and flipping it up to work on. This makes me nervous since I can not completely flip mine over, and there is no good way IMHO, to ensure that I don't end up with 1000 lbs of cutter on my head.
So after one or two times at this I settled on:
Leave it mounted to the tractor 3 pt and lift it up all the way, then put 4 jack stands (one on each corner) underneath it. I then use a mechanics roller to slide up under and get the job done.
Very hard to get hurt this way.
Clearly it would be a good idea to unhook the PTO shaft first! Or you may shred yourself /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

I would replace the blades and not sharpen them. Have you looked at a brand new set of brush hog blades? They are not like mower blades, at least not on my unit. Pretty dull to start.
But the balance was the big issue. The new set of blades, and bolts made the cutter not only run much smoother with less vibration but it also cut much better.

If your looking for an excuse to get an impact gun, replacing the blades is a good reason. Makes taking them off easy, and its a poor mans torque wrench for values beyond 250 ft-lbs. Make sure you get one with 400-600 ft- lbs of toruqe, or maybe a little lower depeding on your cutter's bolt spec.

Another tip that I found handy, is to use a floor jack to support the blade (old or new) while I unbolt or bolt it in place.
These blades are heavy!

Also if you put antisieze or lock tight on it there goes the bolt torque spec. If your read carefully about bolt specs. engineers will often spec a dry torque and a lubricated torque.
If it does not say its usually dry torque.
Maybe if you use the impact toruqe wrench method it will not matter to you.

Fred

 

[PineRidge]

Have_Blue thanks for the tips on using the brush hog. I'll keep them in mind for the future.

 

[soarkrebel]

Phred you are correct about torques. I am assuming in my situation that since woods specified to coat the bolt and crossbar hole with never seez or equivalent the torque they gave takes that into consideration.

Like i said before i don't have a torque wrench that goes to 450 ft lbs and my employer probably wouldnt let me bring one home. i just don't like the idea of a impact to torque them on . right or wrong i like to rely on my old t handle and cheater pipe and muscle to get it on . i know i may have it at 400 or 600 ftlbs ??? but for me it's gives me some piece of mind. i still am thinking about drilling and cotter pinning those suckers. i do have an angle drill that will get in there. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Phred]

yes, a castle nut and pin would be ideal, but man what a pain that would be to get the pin in place.
Probably have to drop the stump jumper off everytime.

Your probably right about the arm strength as a better way, but on mine it's hard to keep the whole thing from spinning.

Fred

 

[soarkrebel]

Fred
Oh you should see some of the places that i have to get cotter pins and worse safety wire. my woods would be a piece of cake! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

British aircraft ....no all aircraft are not designed with the mechanic in mind. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

It is a little challenge to keep the thing from spinning but i use the extension as kind of a pry bar also. you know one could design a tool that would slip over the crossbeam and bind it from moving by using the deck itself. hey an idea.

but really in reference to the blade bolt and nut i really don't think it is going anywhere even if you get close to the specified torque.