Bush hog connection

crown · Jul 24, 2001

This may sound dumb but here it goes I have a heck of a time connecting my 4 foot Howse bush Hog to my B-7500. I have only connected and used it 3 times but it seems to take me on average 30 minutes to connect and my Woods mower no more than 5. Is there a correct sequence to attach ie left link right link top link and then PTO. Should I store the bush hog on a pallet, my problem is my lower links do not go down low enough and I end up wrestling with the implement and that thing gets heavy after awhile. I am a new tractor owner but have enjoyed every hour I've spent on it, this board has been great. All replies are wanted.

gordon · Jul 24, 2001

I try to keep a four by four under the front of the rotary cutter to keep mine off the ground and also to ease in hookup. That way it makes the rotary cutter very easy to slide back and fourth if needed.

As far as right link left link. Here is how I usually do it. First the pto then the lower arms, right or left which ever is lower is the one that I try to hook up first. Then the top link last.

The only dumb question is the one you didn't ask.
No such thing as a dumb question.
Hope this helps
Gordon

Bird · Jul 25, 2001

problem is my lower links do not go down low enough

Gordon's idea of the 4 x 4 is a good one, but for the lower links to not go low enough surprises me and makes me wonder about it. I used to have a 4' Bush Hog for my B7100 and now have a 5' Howse for my B2710 and never had that problem even though I don't put anything under it when I unhook. Are you leaving it on dirt where it sinks a bit? Mine is always on a concrete floor, so if necessary after I hook up one lower link, I can go to the tail wheel and move it sideways pretty easily to line up the other lower link.

Bird

looch · Jul 25, 2001

my problem is my lower links do not go down low enough 

That's weird, I'm nowhere near the bottom limit when I hook up my Bush Hog to my B7500 - but I've never seen a Howse. What about changing the position of your lift arms? If you look at the lower links you'll see an extra set of holes closer to the tractor. Connecting the lift arms to these holes will lower your link arms considerably. As for sequence of connection, I like to start at the bottom and work up. I line up the fixed lift arm with the pin and connect it. I can then, if needed, adjust the other lift arm and pin it. Next is the PTO and finally the top link.

GlueGuy · Jul 25, 2001

Like the others, I have never had a problem getting the links to go low enough.

I have a B7500 with a Woods 48" mower. I usually hook up the two lower links (in either order), then the top link. The only issue for me is getting the lower links wide enough, and getting them to both stay out (to clear the pins). To remedy this, I usually attach a bungy to each lower arm, then up to a bolt head on the ROPS. This pulls the lower arms up & out, but since the arms are heavier than the bungy can manage, it mainly holds them out. I then just line the arm up, and give it a kick with my boot to seat the arm on the pin.

Oh, try and do it all on a level surface. I don't always do it on concrete, but I always aim for a level area.

The GlueGuy

crown · Jul 25, 2001

Unfortantly the implement is outdoors and does sink a bit, some of my problem is as Glue Guy mentioned the links are difficult to keep far enough apart, but still I must physically left the implement a bit, I'll give everybody's suggestions a try. Thanks for the advice.

looch · Jul 26, 2001

the links are difficult to keep far enough apart

Ah, well I don't have that problem as my pins point towards the inside. My Bush Hog was delivered like this so I assume it's ok. I do feel a little funny about having the link arms force against the lock pins rather than the frame of the mower. Anyone care to comment if my "funny" feelings are justified?

Anonymous Poster · Jul 26, 2001

I have a B7500HSD.

I felt the same way re: having the pins face in and the weight
and force be on the pins versus the lifter arms using the frame
of the implement (I was using a Woods 5' blade).

I had reversed the pins in order to get the blade on, as I could
not get the 3 point arms wide enough apart.

I wasn't comfortable with that for the same reason you were,
so I played around with the 3 point hitch settings some more.

With the pins on my blade pointing out (so the 3 point arms
now "squeeze" against the frame of the blade), I can get the
arms over the pints by adjusting the check chains each time.

I unscrew the check chains enough to get the blade hooked
up (or unhooked), then screw them back up again (if I didn't,
they would swing into the tires).

The blade is the only 3 pt implement that I have. I use it as
a counterweight for the FEL sometimes. One problem I have
is that the top link slowly unscrews as I'm using the tractor,
so the blade slowly works its way to the ground. I have to get off and tighten it back up every so often. I don't see any
way to stop if from doing this (there's no locking pin that I can
see that will keep the top link from twisting and unscrewing
like you can do with the check chains).

Knight9 · Jul 26, 2001

there's no locking pin that I can
see that will keep the top link from twisting and unscrewing
like you can do with the check chains

Don't you have a "stop nut" (my phrase...don't know what to call it)? On my B2410 I have a nut at the end of the top link that I can tighten down to the end of the link tube. It prevents the tube from moving.

Kevin

Bird · Jul 26, 2001

snowman, I'm like Kevin; I thought all those screw type top links had a jam nut on the top (or outer) end of them and when that's tightened down, I've never had one change lengths on me.

Bird