Mowing Bush Hog operating Hints and experience

[bironacad]

I recently purchased a 6' Bush Hog (Woods Rotary cutter HC72) and have yet to hook it to the tractor. What I would like is some shared experience on how to approach brush cutting before I start, lol. I watched the video and read the manual but.... I get walking the path and marking stumps and rocks but what about saplings? I read one persons post that if he could knock it over with his FEL his HOG could handle it. Can I run over a 1" sapling without damaging the underside of the tractor? I was told that this was a heavy duty Bush Hog.

Thanks

 

[RobertN]

1 - Go slow - I always do better going slow...
2 - I have more areas where I am able to just back over saplings ect. I'll lift the mower, back in to the brush and then start lowering it.
3 - Sometimes, if I have the loader on the tractor, I will set the bucket about 6" above the ground. That way, for most stuff I catch it or bump it with the loader before hitting a rock ect with the mower.
4 - Go slow and take your time

 

[allis180]

Your hog should handle 1" saplings with no problems. Even after walking through the area to inspect it before you run the brush hog, your machine will still find things you overlooked. Very annoying. Those little surprises tend to get flung with great velocity from under your cutter. It is essential that people and pets are nowhere around your equipment when hogging.

If yours has a shear pin, it helps to have a few sprares on hand. As already mentioned, go slow.

 

[beenthere]

1" for sure. And up to 2" if getting it pushed over. Underbelly is a concern and a risk to take.
Backing over heavy brush is usually how I protect the tractor belly. If driving over, then be sure you don't end up having to back up on pushed-over brush. :shocked:

 

[TripleR]

Just almost too many caveats to mention. Be sure to check your manual to make sure what size it will handle, it should be in the specs. One of ours will handle 2 1/2 and the other 3" which we regularly cut by lowering the front bucket and knocking them down to protect the cab glass.

We use the front bucket as a "feeler" in rough stuff and it has saved the cutter by locating stumps etc. I have also used the FEL to get out of a washout that appeared over the winter months.

As mentioned, you can back over stuff and lower your cutter, but in backing over stuff, you are putting your tires right on the freshly cut stobs which may or may not be a problem depending on how low you cut. Going any distance in reverse can also be pretty tiring. I do this on occasion depending on what I am cutting. We use a pull type Woods DS1260 which is hard to back straight without turning around or using mirrors. I also use a 6' Land Pride RCR2672 and routinely run over stuff up to ten feet or more tall. I have managed to tear the boots up on my Kubota tie rods, but they are easy to replace and some tractors don't have them so exposed.

I know of no rotary cutter that won't handle 1" saplings though they may exist, I cut them that big with my little BX and 4' cutter.

As mentioned, if you don't have a slip clutch carry some extra shear pins and if you have a slip clutch make sure it is properly adjusted.

Check to make sure your blades are properly "sharpened", ie as per manual which should be a square profile of about 1/16th of an inch with square ends I think, check your manual, there is a thread on this somewhere.

Keep your hand on or near your lift in case you get into something you shouldn't or be prepared to shut it down nd disengage the PTO.

I am sure there are others I am missing, but other members will catch them and bring it up.

Here are some pictures of stuff we cut.

 

[Wooddust]

There are bush hogs and then there are bush hogs.....I have a 6 foot BushHog Brand that is built way heavier than a woods, KK, and many of the other less pricy brands. What I can cut as far as stems go and what you may want to cut would be different. Be careful, your gear box is lighter and the metal that they use for the mower deck is lighter. Ease into it, and you will learn what is too big and what will end up denting your mower or stalling the tractor.

 

[DAY]

Said by others: In "Virgin Territory" go slow. Even take a pre-cutting walk. Then the once or twice a year mowing job is like cutting the lawn.

 

[Baby Grand]

Your hog should handle 1" saplings with no problems. Even after walking through the area to inspect it before you run the brush hog, your machine will still find things you overlooked. Very annoying. Those little surprises tend to get flung with great velocity from under your cutter. It is essential that people and pets are nowhere around your equipment when hogging.

If yours has a shear pin, it helps to have a few sprares on hand. As already mentioned, go slow.

What he said.
Also - if you are cutting around vertical surfaces - buildings, walls, tree trunks, etc - that stuff that gets flung with great velocity can come right back at you, so wear safety glasses if not a helmet. I had a chunk of wood whiz by my ear so close it near trimmed the hair off of it.

 

[devildog1]

1 - Go slow - I always do better going slow...
2 - I have more areas where I am able to just back over saplings ect. I'll lift the mower, back in to the brush and then start lowering it.
3 - Sometimes, if I have the loader on the tractor, I will set the bucket about 6" above the ground. That way, for most stuff I catch it or bump it with the loader before hitting a rock ect with the mower.
4 - Go slow and take your time

RobertN is right on, could not have said it any better.
DevilDog

 

[bironacad]

Just almost too many caveats to mention. Be sure to check your manual to make sure what size it will handle, it should be in the specs. One of ours will handle 2 1/2 and the other 3" which we regularly cut by lowering the front bucket and knocking them down to protect the cab glass.

We use the front bucket as a "feeler" in rough stuff and it has saved the cutter by locating stumps etc. I have also used the FEL to get out of a washout that appeared over the winter months.

As mentioned, you can back over stuff and lower your cutter, but in backing over stuff, you are putting your tires right on the freshly cut stobs which may or may not be a problem depending on how low you cut. Going any distance in reverse can also be pretty tiring. I do this on occasion depending on what I am cutting. We use a pull type Woods DS1260 which is hard to back straight without turning around or using mirrors. I also use a 6' Land Pride RCR2672 and routinely run over stuff up to ten feet or more tall. I have managed to tear the boots up on my Kubota tie rods, but they are easy to replace and some tractors don't have them so exposed.

I know of no rotary cutter that won't handle 1" saplings though they may exist, I cut them that big with my little BX and 4' cutter.

As mentioned, if you don't have a slip clutch carry some extra shear pins and if you have a slip clutch make sure it is properly adjusted.

Check to make sure your blades are properly "sharpened", ie as per manual which should be a square profile of about 1/16th of an inch with square ends I think, check your manual, there is a thread on this somewhere.

Keep your hand on or near your lift in case you get into something you shouldn't or be prepared to shut it down nd disengage the PTO.

I am sure there are others I am missing, but other members will catch them and bring it up.

Here are some pictures of stuff we cut.

That is pretty impressive thanks for the pictures. It is equipped with a slip clutch I don't have a hydraulic top link so when you say raise and lower you are you referring to your lift arms?