Bush hog setup

[ruffdog]

You may want to get a shorter pin for the top link so it won't hit the uprights when it moves below them (when the rear of the cutter gets lifted).

 

[Beeenvenue]

When I installed it that way I was having a hard time keeping the back wheel off the ground for transport, that's why I assumed it needed to be fixed. Should I go ahead and put the lift points lower and the reas supports further back you think? There are factory holes that I assume that's what it's for.

That’s one of the uses of a hydraulic top link for a bushog - extend when cutting to let it ride contours, pull in short when traveling and your tail wheel will jump right on up. (I have a Mohawk brave with the swinging clevis )

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

When I set up the brush hog (60") on our tractor I made sure the tire pressures were where they should be.. Did all this on the flat garage floor..

I set it up to cut about 15cm (6") high.. Adjusted the tail wheel as needed, adjusted the top link as needed...

I measured the top link center of bolt to center of bolt and painted that number on the brush hog deck.. Also set the draft control where everything runs level and painted that number (4) on the deck...

I also keep a 50 cal steel ammo can bolted to the deck for tools to maintain the slip clutch..

Makes hook up quick and easy time after time..

 

[Hay Dude]

To all that bush hog-especially those in dry conditions:
I have been in the business 30+ years, running all sorts of field mowers from 5' to 15' on tractors from 25 to 225HP.
Last week, I was mowing in a dry area with a 15' mower around a few rocks and struck one. Sparks flew and ignited a small area of dry grass.
Luckily I was carrying a water extinguisher on the tractor. I did NOT need to deploy it. I was able to stomp it out pretty easy.

Carry a fire extinguisher. Preferably a water type and a ABC type. Cheap insurance. I'm glad I had it should things have gotten out of control.

I keep a 10lb ABC in the cab, too.

 

[ptsg]

To all that bush hog-especially those in dry conditions:
I have been in the business 30+ years, running all sorts of field mowers from 5' to 15' on tractors from 25 to 225HP.
Last week, I was mowing in a dry area with a 15' mower around a few rocks and struck one. Sparks flew and ignited a small area of dry grass.
Luckily I was carrying a water extinguisher on the tractor. I did NOT need to deploy it. I was able to stomp it out pretty easy.

Carry a fire extinguisher. Preferably a water type and a ABC type. Cheap insurance. I'm glad I had it should things have gotten out of control.

I agree. This happens way more than people tend to believe.

We've had huge forest fires here caused by brush mowers hitting rocks and creating sparks. It's actually mandatory to have a fire extinguisher on tractors when mowing brush but in some cases it's simply not enough.

 

[Hay Dude]

I may try to find a spot for my Indian Pumps (sorry if I offended anyone for saying “Indian”) on board, too. I don’t fully trust the water extinguishers, but they are certainly a lot of insurance and peace of mind.

 

[RSKY]

Been mowing for more than fifty years and only started using a chain for the toplink in the last five. It enables me to mow and trim in a lot of places I could not before. Back up to a ditch or dropoff and the back end of the mower will drop down until the chain stops it. Back up to a steep pond levee and the mower will track up the bank. I have clamps at specific places on the chain marking the fartherest the back can drop without the pto shaft rubbing the mower and for transport to keep the back end off the ground.

RSKY

 

[ptsg]

That's why pretty much all the brush mowers over here come setup with chains from the A frame to the back of the mower instead of the metal straps that usually get bent. One simply extends the top link and let it float on uneven ground.

Hydraulic top link is really good because you can simply retract the top link all the way, to lift the back of the mower up and mow against an embankment or tall brush in reverse. Then extend all the way and move forward.

And here is an example of these chains working. There are some old ruins from an hold house in the middle of that brush, so there are remaining from old school walls built with rocks and cement. Also, there are lot of rocks on the ground on this propriety. Sorry for the noise from the camera casing.

 

[divyakfm]

You should have a shield on the pto shaft also, a safety thing.

Yes, agree 100%.

Another comment about 'sharpening' the blades. This is not a finish mower where the blades are sharpened to a fine/pointed/sharp leading 45 degree edge. If so sharpened brush would be cut and leave sharp/punji sticks that could puncture tires or other nasty things. The leading edge of the blade should be BLUNT, at a right angle to the bottom of the blade, say 1/16" to 1/32" thick. That way thicker brush will be shattered/ragged and not cut.

 

[Deanes]

Hey y'all, I'm running into an issue setting up my new to me John Deere 513 bush hog. Paid 675$ for it, get it home to fin banged up dull blades, gearbox dry, and the top link bars not fixed to the supports. Added some 00 grease, ground and sharpened blades, but the problem I'm having is figuring out the top link setup. I used my flux core welder to weld the links to the front supports, fairly straight up, but now I'm finding that with my top link adjusted almost all the way out the back of the tractor is way too high when I get the front set at the cutting height I want. I'm contemplating trying to find a longer top link bar, grinding the welds and redoing them with the plates facing forwards, or going ahead and moving lift arm points on the mower to the lower position and the rear support to the farthest back positions. What would y'all recommend? View attachment 698589View attachment 698590View attachment 698591View attachment 698592

Glad you got it worked out. Another Idea that I like for a bush hog with real wheel(s) is to replace the top-to-back braces with welded chains. You get full float over terrain.
Another essential to me is a top link made out of a hydraulic cylinder. It's Infinitely adjustable and can lift the back very high with a flick of the lever.