Bush hog

   / Bush hog #1  

1930

Platinum Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2018
Messages
931
Location
Brandon/Ocala Florida
Tractor
Kubota B6100E Kubota L 2501 Kubota T1460
Good morning, is it normal that these blades be loose?
I know nothing about this, I need one and it’s been sitting
The bolt/ nut is tight, just sloppy from wear.
Not stupid loose in my uneducated opinion but definitely wobbly.
Someone has just abused this thing
Thanks
 

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   / Bush hog #2  
They should be able to spin around the nut. If it hits a stump, they can absorb the hit better (by spinning backwards). As for how "loose", mine are somewhat tight and takes a little effort to spin them.

That one does look to have been used a bunch... What price are they asking?
 
   / Bush hog
  • Thread Starter
#3  
They should be able to spin around the nut. If it hits a stump, they can absorb the hit better (by spinning backwards). As for how "loose", mine are somewhat tight and takes a little effort to spin them.

That one does look to have been used a bunch... What price are they asking?
It came with a B6100 I bought years back
I unhooked it and dropped it not thinking I’d have need for it
 
   / Bush hog #4  
I would worry more about the gearbox than the blades. Before I used it, I would try to tighten the blades but also, change the gearbox oil.
 
   / Bush hog
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I would worry more about the gearbox than the blades. Before I used it, I would try to tighten the blades but also, change the gearbox oil.
I pulled the plugs on it and no detachable fluid so I’ll fill it up and see what happens
Thanks
 
   / Bush hog #7  
The blades are "lose" so they can swing back if they hit something like a rock or a stump. In normal operation, centrifugal force keeps them extended in cutting position. Fill the gearbox with 80w-90 gear oil. If it leaks, use cornhead grease.
 
   / Bush hog #8  
Correlation of blade to bolt appears fine to me. As others stated blade to blade arm needs to have a little clearance so blade can rotate away from unknown obstacles encountered when mowing.
 
   / Bush hog #9  
I wouldn't fill it up too much, just enough to see if it's leaking out the bottom. Maybe fill it to a certain level. (My guess it will leak). Cornhead grease 00, works well if the bottom seal is shot...
 
   / Bush hog
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Surprisingly the box took very little gear oil and cuts like a champ considering all things.
The B6100 is probably too small for it so I have to put it in turtle mode but I’m still at the learning curve.
Can someone tell me what the chain may have been used for?
Pictures won’t upload
 

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   / Bush hog #11  
Can someone tell me what the chain may have been used for?
The chain allows the mower to follow the terrain. You adjust the top link so the chain is a little slack on level ground. Then as you go over dips the rear wheel stays on the ground and lets the mower stay close to the ground as the front of the tractor drops.
 
   / Bush hog
  • Thread Starter
#12  
The chain allows the mower to follow the terrain. You adjust the top link so the chain is a little slack on level ground. Then as you go over dips the rear wheel stays on the ground and lets the mower stay close to the ground as the front of the tractor drops.
Thanks, so where does chain attach?
 
   / Bush hog #14  
So I don't even hook up the top link, the one or two places that I know that I'll hit rocks, just raising up the 3 point hitch will clear the rocks. If you need to clear cattle guards or areas with lots of rocks, hook the chain to where the toplink attaches to...
 
   / Bush hog #15  
1744764729690.png
 
   / Bush hog #16  
Slide a length of old pipe about 8" shorter than that chain over it before attaching it to the mower frame at the top link part.
This will prevent the mower from flipping up so much a universal joint breaks if you happen to back up on a bank when mowing.
That cutter appears in good condition, just missing the stump-jumper.
1744766486187.jpeg
 
   / Bush hog
  • Thread Starter
#17  
The chain allows the mower to follow the terrain. You adjust the top link so the chain is a little slack on level ground. Then as you go over dips the rear wheel stays on the ground and lets the mower stay close to the ground as the front of the tractor drops.
It’s hard to do it one handed but does the chain attach to the back of the tractor typically or to the three point?

I don’t know what this is but it was in a bolt just flopping around
 

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   / Bush hog #18  
It is supposed to attach at the top of the frame on the mower for the top link connection, where you are holding the little bracket in the third photo. I'm not sure exactly how it is supposed to attach there. Looks like a bolt or something is missing.
 
   / Bush hog
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Slide a length of old pipe about 8" shorter than that chain over it before attaching it to the mower frame at the top link part.
This will prevent the mower from flipping up so much a universal joint breaks if you happen to back up on a bank when mowing.
That cutter appears in good condition, just missing the stump-jumper.
View attachment 3268534
Thanks
 
   / Bush hog #20  
It’s hard to do it one handed but does the chain attach to the back of the tractor typically or to the three point?
In your case, it appears the chain would attach to the top of the (sort of) triangular yoke at the front of the deck, near where the toplink attaches to the mower. The intent would be that that triangular yoke can pivot fore and aft where it is bolted to the deck. With this set up that yoke is free to pivot, your PTO shaft (and tractor TPO output) is not in danger of damage from being compressed beyond the range of its telescoping. The toplink should prevent that.

Other brush hogs use a different system: the yoke is rigidly mounted to the deck (often braced by a solid bar running more or less where your chain would run). Those get the flex to allow the deck to follow terrain by replacing the toplink with a chain, or as in the case of my Wood Brushbull, there is a piece of metal between the mower end of the toplink and the yoke which is free to swing where it attached to the yoke and where it attaches to the toplink, allowing some swing, but limiting the amount. (Woods has changed their design since I bought mine 20+ years ago. They now put that flexible part behind the yoke, and the rigid brace bars going to the back are attached to that. So the flex comes more like what happens with your chain, but happens by means of a joint in the brace bar.)

People who are operating on terrain that is not too rough, and who do not need to lift the brush cutter entirely off the ground sometimes run with the toplink or chain completely disconnected.
 

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