rutwad
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2006
- Messages
- 815
- Location
- Alabama
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 5465, Kubota M5040, Farmall H (2), Minneapolis Moline R, Case 530CK, Cat 416C
I had looked online last year at 12ft batwing cutters by Landpride, Bush Hog, and Rhino. Maybe 1 year or more before that I had actually seen a Rhino. And not until November of last year did I see the Bush Hog 1812. My dad decided he would buy the Bush Hog if I liked it. Since he offered to make the purchase, I did not dispute or discuss the others with him because he was already aware the other brands were also available. Respectfully, I said yes I like it, and I did. Did I like it better than the others? That's hard to say honestly because online specifications and real world operation are 2 completely different things. However out of the 3 mentioned and based solely on internet research, I don't think Bush Hog would have been my first pick. But if that is the one dad wanted, plus we have good dealer support from 2 nearby locations, and the plant is also near then I agreed that I did like it. Besides, I have a 15' and have ran several other 15' as well. So last November my dad purchased the BH 1812 to pull with our Kubota M5040.
Most if not all of the 12ft batwing mowers require only 1 rear SCV, likely trying to accommodate the smaller tractors that often only have 1. It is an option to have it hook to 2 SCV's, so we opted for that which also meant we had to have another SCV installed on our tractor because it only came with one. The Bush Hog is rated for 50-75 PTO horsepower, but the M5040's rated 45 PTO horsepower does just fine with it. One feature I noticed that seemed good about the 1812 was the E-Z clean smooth decks for both the center and wings. I also liked that three gear boxes have a sight glass to verify the oil is at proper level. The 1812 also has a PTO holder that folds up to hold the PTO when it is unhooked from the tractor or simply folds down against the tongue when in use. The Bush Hog also came standard with red and yellow rear lights which I assume operate with the flashers and brake lights. Although I don't ever recall having a wheel bearing cap come off while using any cutter, I notice the BH has a piece of metal that curves out around the cap to protect it and keep from getting knocked off. These are small features, but all seem nice if needed.
So now we have a nice 12ft. cutter to maintain the property, and I want to see that it lasts for many years. I am keeping it very well greased as regular maintenance because I DO NOT want the expense of having to repair those golden$$$ driveline components. My other concern is over years I have seen many cutters with the decks rusted. Some have surface rust while others actually need the deck replaced. So the E-Z clean smooth deck design would definitely help clearing the debris off so it doesn't hold water and cause rust. So with regular maintenance, keeping the oil checked, greasing, and cleaning I think it will definitely serve it's purpose.
Excited with the new purchase, I could hardly wait to take it out and mow (I wish I had that same enthusiasm all the time about mowing). I did not adjust it initially, I left it as the dealer had it. It's first use was mostly light grass and broom straw. Now I am going back a few months and counting on my memory, so do not hold me to this initial evaluation since it may not be nearly as noticeable as I think it was or it may have been the way it was adjusted. But I immediately noticed it left more of a windrow than I expected. It has been adjusted since and honestly I don't recall how it looks now because it may be something I am used to seeing or it may not be as noticeable. I will see next time I use it.
Something I noticed from it's first use that I still notice it does is the amount of clippings it throws on top of the deck. There is a gap between the center section and wing at the very from of the cutter. It's not a gap on top between the decks, but seems like the center deck's front edge is a couple inches farther forward than the adjoining wing's front edge. This gap makes a huge difference. Clippings are constantly thrown out here and end up on the cutter. I also noticed quite a bit of clippings coming up along the wing pivot rods where they attach to the center deck. I don't really think there is much gap here, no more than a 15' if I remember correctly, but it does throw more clippings. How much? Just a guess to give you an idea but if I took the 12ft and cut 8" grass down to 2-1/2 inches over 10 acres, then take my 15' and cut 24" grass down to 3-1/2 inches over 20 acres, the 12ft will accumulate more debris on it's smooth deck than my 15'.
Talking about the debris collection reminded me about the wing locks. The center deck has 2 pieces of steel maybe 2" wide and 4" tall welded near the front and side of the deck. The 2 pieces are spaced about 1" apart. The wing has 1 piece of steel welded to it so that when the wing is completely raised, the 1 piece from the wing will slide down between the 2 pieces of the center deck. All 3 have holes to accommodate the pin which is neatly secured in a nearby hole. That prevents you from having to remove the pin before raising the wings. It's a simple, yet effective design to secure the wings in the up position under ideal conditions. But if you finish mowing and raise the wings completely, then dismount the tractor to go install the pin to lock the wings you will find it doesn't line up. Hmmm, back to the tractor. Lowered the wings completely then raised them all the way up again. Dismounted tractor only to find the same problem. What happens is that the cutter throws so much debris on the decks that enough has managed to get between the 2 vertical wing lock pieces welded to the center deck. Raising the wing, the wing lock welded piece starts between the 2 pieces but will not allow the wing to lift enough due to the amount of debris. And after lifting the wings 2 times before realizing what the problem was, the debris was now tightly packed between the 2 pieces. Tight enough I had to use a screw driver to scrape it out before the wings would lift enough for the lock pin to be inserted.
I also noticed during the first use that the plastic driveline guards spin with the shafts. My 15' and others I have used have a small chain connected to them which keeps them from spinning. Having never seen one where the guards spun with the driveline, I went to the manual thinking the chains were left off, but I found the 1812 doesn't use guard chains so the plastic guards were apparently meant to spin with the driveline.
So after I get finished mowing with the 1812, I decided it was now time to clean the debris. Besides, a rusted deck is one of the last things I want. It went pretty simple as expected, using my lawn blower to clean it. With this being my first new cutter, I was a little particular about keeping it in top shape. That probably also comes from running a cutter for my neighbor that is nothing more than a rattletrap in constant need of repair. Before having our 1812 I used a Bush Hog 84" finish mower. I'm not sure what other people do, but I generally try to wait until the grass is dry before I mow it. Damp grass that gets thrown into the corners under the mower will soon dry, harden, and are usually there to stay until I get the pressure washer to clean it. I was thinking, how can a deck on a new bush hog rust out? The surface is painted, so I wouldn't expect much problem there. But under the cutter is where the paint is quickly gone. It is also where wet grass clipping get stuck. So I think (just my recent thought and could be wrong. I am wrong about 98% of the time anyway) most problems with a deck rusting out must start from the underside, that is assuming the top is kept clean. That was a lot of reasoning for me to simply say I decided to clean the underside of the cutter. The wings are no trouble since they are folded up and it is all easily accessible. My big surprise came when I started to clean under the center section. I know Bush Hog advertises the E-Z clean smooth deck. I made an assumption which turned out was a mistake. I expected the bottom of the deck to be smooth, bracing on top similar to my 15', then a smooth deck on top covering all the bracing. Wrong! All the bracing for the center section is under the deck, and it offers many places for grass and debris to accumulate. So I start crawling around the deck with pressure washer in hand, spraying from every angle trying to clean every corner under the deck. After what seemed like a very long time and still fighting debris and a sore back, I finally heard the greatest sound I could have heard at that moment....the sputter of my pressure washer running out of gas, WHEW! Stand up, stretch, walk a minute, and refuel the pressure washer. Now time for a huge decision. Do I quit in the middle of my cleaning project and consider it "good enough", or return to the torture of bending, squatting, and crawling around cleaning it. Geez, I hate to quit since I have come this far. Geez, I hate worse to think about finishing. So I made an executive decision right then. I disconnected the Bush Hog, pulled the tractor around to the side out of the way, returned with the backhoe and chain. Yes, I chained the tongue of the bush hog to the FEL of the backhoe and raised it up maybe 45 or so degrees. Viola, easy access to the decks underside, so I went back to cleaning. OCD?, maybe. But I got it clean. Picky? yes! Heck, I would rather the deck been built upside down so the bottom was smooth and bracing on top.
Overall, I think the Bush Hog is definitely a well built cutter and will last. But I would expect the other brands to be as well. If I went out to purchase a new 12ft flex-wing today, would I buy the Bush Hog 1812? I doubt it unless I was really disappointed in the others. Just from reviewing them online as far as specifications and not considering users reviews, I would likely lean toward the Rhino.
What is the market for the Bush Hog 1812? I really don't know that there is one. I don't follow the market or anything, so just my opinion, but I think either the 1812 will have to be changed or discontinued. I don't see there being much demand for it.
Happy Cutting!!
Most if not all of the 12ft batwing mowers require only 1 rear SCV, likely trying to accommodate the smaller tractors that often only have 1. It is an option to have it hook to 2 SCV's, so we opted for that which also meant we had to have another SCV installed on our tractor because it only came with one. The Bush Hog is rated for 50-75 PTO horsepower, but the M5040's rated 45 PTO horsepower does just fine with it. One feature I noticed that seemed good about the 1812 was the E-Z clean smooth decks for both the center and wings. I also liked that three gear boxes have a sight glass to verify the oil is at proper level. The 1812 also has a PTO holder that folds up to hold the PTO when it is unhooked from the tractor or simply folds down against the tongue when in use. The Bush Hog also came standard with red and yellow rear lights which I assume operate with the flashers and brake lights. Although I don't ever recall having a wheel bearing cap come off while using any cutter, I notice the BH has a piece of metal that curves out around the cap to protect it and keep from getting knocked off. These are small features, but all seem nice if needed.
So now we have a nice 12ft. cutter to maintain the property, and I want to see that it lasts for many years. I am keeping it very well greased as regular maintenance because I DO NOT want the expense of having to repair those golden$$$ driveline components. My other concern is over years I have seen many cutters with the decks rusted. Some have surface rust while others actually need the deck replaced. So the E-Z clean smooth deck design would definitely help clearing the debris off so it doesn't hold water and cause rust. So with regular maintenance, keeping the oil checked, greasing, and cleaning I think it will definitely serve it's purpose.
Excited with the new purchase, I could hardly wait to take it out and mow (I wish I had that same enthusiasm all the time about mowing). I did not adjust it initially, I left it as the dealer had it. It's first use was mostly light grass and broom straw. Now I am going back a few months and counting on my memory, so do not hold me to this initial evaluation since it may not be nearly as noticeable as I think it was or it may have been the way it was adjusted. But I immediately noticed it left more of a windrow than I expected. It has been adjusted since and honestly I don't recall how it looks now because it may be something I am used to seeing or it may not be as noticeable. I will see next time I use it.
Something I noticed from it's first use that I still notice it does is the amount of clippings it throws on top of the deck. There is a gap between the center section and wing at the very from of the cutter. It's not a gap on top between the decks, but seems like the center deck's front edge is a couple inches farther forward than the adjoining wing's front edge. This gap makes a huge difference. Clippings are constantly thrown out here and end up on the cutter. I also noticed quite a bit of clippings coming up along the wing pivot rods where they attach to the center deck. I don't really think there is much gap here, no more than a 15' if I remember correctly, but it does throw more clippings. How much? Just a guess to give you an idea but if I took the 12ft and cut 8" grass down to 2-1/2 inches over 10 acres, then take my 15' and cut 24" grass down to 3-1/2 inches over 20 acres, the 12ft will accumulate more debris on it's smooth deck than my 15'.
Talking about the debris collection reminded me about the wing locks. The center deck has 2 pieces of steel maybe 2" wide and 4" tall welded near the front and side of the deck. The 2 pieces are spaced about 1" apart. The wing has 1 piece of steel welded to it so that when the wing is completely raised, the 1 piece from the wing will slide down between the 2 pieces of the center deck. All 3 have holes to accommodate the pin which is neatly secured in a nearby hole. That prevents you from having to remove the pin before raising the wings. It's a simple, yet effective design to secure the wings in the up position under ideal conditions. But if you finish mowing and raise the wings completely, then dismount the tractor to go install the pin to lock the wings you will find it doesn't line up. Hmmm, back to the tractor. Lowered the wings completely then raised them all the way up again. Dismounted tractor only to find the same problem. What happens is that the cutter throws so much debris on the decks that enough has managed to get between the 2 vertical wing lock pieces welded to the center deck. Raising the wing, the wing lock welded piece starts between the 2 pieces but will not allow the wing to lift enough due to the amount of debris. And after lifting the wings 2 times before realizing what the problem was, the debris was now tightly packed between the 2 pieces. Tight enough I had to use a screw driver to scrape it out before the wings would lift enough for the lock pin to be inserted.
I also noticed during the first use that the plastic driveline guards spin with the shafts. My 15' and others I have used have a small chain connected to them which keeps them from spinning. Having never seen one where the guards spun with the driveline, I went to the manual thinking the chains were left off, but I found the 1812 doesn't use guard chains so the plastic guards were apparently meant to spin with the driveline.
So after I get finished mowing with the 1812, I decided it was now time to clean the debris. Besides, a rusted deck is one of the last things I want. It went pretty simple as expected, using my lawn blower to clean it. With this being my first new cutter, I was a little particular about keeping it in top shape. That probably also comes from running a cutter for my neighbor that is nothing more than a rattletrap in constant need of repair. Before having our 1812 I used a Bush Hog 84" finish mower. I'm not sure what other people do, but I generally try to wait until the grass is dry before I mow it. Damp grass that gets thrown into the corners under the mower will soon dry, harden, and are usually there to stay until I get the pressure washer to clean it. I was thinking, how can a deck on a new bush hog rust out? The surface is painted, so I wouldn't expect much problem there. But under the cutter is where the paint is quickly gone. It is also where wet grass clipping get stuck. So I think (just my recent thought and could be wrong. I am wrong about 98% of the time anyway) most problems with a deck rusting out must start from the underside, that is assuming the top is kept clean. That was a lot of reasoning for me to simply say I decided to clean the underside of the cutter. The wings are no trouble since they are folded up and it is all easily accessible. My big surprise came when I started to clean under the center section. I know Bush Hog advertises the E-Z clean smooth deck. I made an assumption which turned out was a mistake. I expected the bottom of the deck to be smooth, bracing on top similar to my 15', then a smooth deck on top covering all the bracing. Wrong! All the bracing for the center section is under the deck, and it offers many places for grass and debris to accumulate. So I start crawling around the deck with pressure washer in hand, spraying from every angle trying to clean every corner under the deck. After what seemed like a very long time and still fighting debris and a sore back, I finally heard the greatest sound I could have heard at that moment....the sputter of my pressure washer running out of gas, WHEW! Stand up, stretch, walk a minute, and refuel the pressure washer. Now time for a huge decision. Do I quit in the middle of my cleaning project and consider it "good enough", or return to the torture of bending, squatting, and crawling around cleaning it. Geez, I hate to quit since I have come this far. Geez, I hate worse to think about finishing. So I made an executive decision right then. I disconnected the Bush Hog, pulled the tractor around to the side out of the way, returned with the backhoe and chain. Yes, I chained the tongue of the bush hog to the FEL of the backhoe and raised it up maybe 45 or so degrees. Viola, easy access to the decks underside, so I went back to cleaning. OCD?, maybe. But I got it clean. Picky? yes! Heck, I would rather the deck been built upside down so the bottom was smooth and bracing on top.
Overall, I think the Bush Hog is definitely a well built cutter and will last. But I would expect the other brands to be as well. If I went out to purchase a new 12ft flex-wing today, would I buy the Bush Hog 1812? I doubt it unless I was really disappointed in the others. Just from reviewing them online as far as specifications and not considering users reviews, I would likely lean toward the Rhino.
What is the market for the Bush Hog 1812? I really don't know that there is one. I don't follow the market or anything, so just my opinion, but I think either the 1812 will have to be changed or discontinued. I don't see there being much demand for it.
Happy Cutting!!
A few here, and a few there. So I wanted to add a little more.
