Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid?

   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #1  

Shenandoah MF1760

Gold Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Messages
369
Location
Livingston, East Texas Piney Woods
Tractor
Massey Ferguson 2020 MF1760M
The wife wants a ZTR and with the number of trees to go around it's a chore trying to do it with the tractor which only has a brush-hog. 5 acres is probably the maximum that the ZTR would see and the hills are gentle.

The local dealers carry Cub Cadet, John Deere, Stihl and Gravely. The big box stores are Lowes and Tractor Supply.

Personally I'd prefer to avoid the big box stores as they don't service what they sell and some things tend to get discontinued quickly.

I have no experience with ZTR's and almost all my small engine stuff has been powered by Honda engines so I'm not familiar with the Kohler, Briggs, etc. in their current incarnations (go back 50 years and I'd swear by Briggs). My UTV is powered by an 812cc Kawasaki and I've had no issues with it.
'
So... What should I be looking for?
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #2  
I think all of those brands have quality mowers. The Stihls I believe are rebadged Ferris mowers, and with suspension, would be comfortable.
For gas engines I prefer Kawasaki, Yamaha, or Honda. My Kawasaki walk behind is 22 years old and still running perfectly.
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #3  
5 acres would necessitate a jump up from a home owner model to commercial for me. I like Deere the best, simply because there is a very good dealer 3 miles away.

But the Cub Cadet ZTR with a steering wheel rather than 2 handlebars looks like something anybody could jump on and go with very little practice before trimming around something expensive.
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #4  
Ferris - Simplicity and Stihl are the same - just different models and levels - you would want a near commercial series machine which have the full front and rear suspension.

The SCAG, Exmark, John Deere, Kubota, ZT are all good machines - but get the suspension seat - really depends on your land and then if you want a diesel, the Kubota is a very good machine but all diesels are $15K plus.
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #5  
What's the budget? If money's no object get a commercial diesel unit with a fabricated deck. :)
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #6  
What's the budget? If money's no object get a commercial diesel unit with a fabricated deck. :)
I agree. I bought a Kubota diesel Z TURN several yrs ago and have been pleased. Those diesels are very fuel efficient too !
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #7  
I have essentially a 6 year old version of this mower under the Ferris name. 25 hp Kawasaki commercial motor, ZT4400 hydros, fast, good ride, very smooth operation, easy to use, and it really cuts nice. After 2 years one of the fuel gauge needles became stuck and the dealer sent me a new one at no charge. That's all I've done to it other than engine oil and hydro fluid and filters. Original deck belts. If something happened to it I'd replace it with the current version.

 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #8  
I just picked up a new Husqvarna z-454 for my parent’s 4 acre lawn. It’s got a Kawasaki 23 hp engine. I’ve cut it with it three times so far and it’s worked well, knocking it out in about 2 hours and averaging about 2.5 gallons of gas per cut.

It does not have the suspension seat on it but that is an available option that the dealer said lists for $800, but he could get me for $400. The stock seat is pretty comfortable.
IMG_6362.jpeg
IMG_6364.jpeg

The only thing I don’t like about it is the rollbar. I folded it down to fit under some branches over there, but it still hooked one on my last cut and pulled it down against my ear. No blood, but that hurt fur a while.

There are no slopes or ditches on their yard, so I’m going to take the damn thing off and see if I can bolt it onto my Farmall Cub tractor. It would be nice to mount a canopy to on that.

This is a commercial mower. It’s quite a bit smoother than the 5 year old residential version (model MZ-454) that my dad had previously. That one had a Kohler engine on it which has now gone out of business.
 
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   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #10  
The seats a big deal. Go with an upgraded model with suspension in the seat.

Your back will thank you.
God gave the human body an amazing ability to heal itself, but I’d need time, parts and tools to fix that Kawasaki engine or any other mechanical component on that ZTR that I broke by going too fast over the rough stuff.
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #11  
God gave the human body an amazing ability to heal itself, but I’d need time, parts and tools to fix that Kawasaki engine or any other mechanical component on that ZTR that I broke by going too fast over the rough stuff.
I don't go too fast on mine. Neither does my wife.

That suspension seat on ours means the difference between my wife mowing or not.

She broke her back years ago and in her case, that seat was a must have.
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #12  
Try out one of the Cub Cadets with steering wheel. If your budget allows, test drive one of the PRO models with power steering.
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #13  
Try out one of the Cub Cadets with steering wheel. If your budget allows, test drive one of the PRO models with power steering.
You could put a spinner on the steering wheel and drink a beverage while you are mowing with your other hand. Definitely a lot easier than with the two handle steering models.
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #14  
Actually don't even need the spinner . . .
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #15  
Whatever you buy, get a suspension seat. It costs more but your back is worth it.
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #16  
I just went through buying a new ZTR this week. Couple things I learned while shopping: The hydro is the most expensive thing on the mower and you should match the size of the hydro to the acreage your mowing. The cheaper homeowner versions have smaller hydro pumps and motors and are rated for an acre or two. Will they mow your 5 acres? Yes, but they will be running hot doing it and won't last long. I don't know which size hydro is rated for what acreage, but a dealer should be able to size appropriately for your needs.
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #17  
I bought a Cub Cadet ZTR1 50 a couple of weeks ago. It lasted for about 90 minutes. The transmisson belt came off and to fix it, the mower has to go to a service center. Needless to say I returned the mower for a refund.
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #18  
Don't overlook the Gravely units. Commercial or Pro series would be needed for 5 acres. Yes on the upgraded seat for sure! Who says that you can't drive the lever models with one hand? With practice, I had a gentleman driving one, since he lost one arm in a car accident!
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #19  
The only ZTR I have experience with is a 2011 Scag Turf Tiger 61" 31hp Vanguard. It's definitely a work horse of a ZTR. Maintenance on it is surprisingly easy. May be the only shaft driven deck ZTR of all the models. The fuel tank (13 gallon) is under the seat, so it has a very low center of gravity. Hugs hills very well. Alot of used ones out there for a good price. I would stay away from the Vanguard engine though. They are known for pushrod failure. Easy replacement though.
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #20  
The hydro is the most expensive thing on the mower and you should match the size of the hydro to the acreage your mowing.
I have never seen a hydro rated for acreage. However the hydros are rated for a max weight. Many companies will skimp on they hydro creating a mower that is to large for the hydro.
Toro Titan 60", 845 lbs.
Uses HydroGear 2800 that is rated at 1000 lbs max.
That leaves 155 lbs for the operator and 5 gallons of gas (30 lbs) so dont fill it up and weigh more than 125lbs.
 

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