Buying first tractor - storing outdoors -Critter Concerns

[Gary Fowler]

Is a charmers WD any better? I assume tractor of this era without power steering might be a bit stiff. What would be your choice for a old but easy to work on tractor?

Bsa

I used to drive my father's 8N when I was pre-school age and the steering while a bit hard when setting still, isn't too bad when moving. We also had a AC WD45 and it had power steering which was a bit unusual to have back in those days but still it was available. The WD had a hand clutch that you could use when using PTO that you could stop the tractor, shift gears etc without stopping the PTO like you had to do on the 8N. You did have to get used to using it though and not stomp on the clutch to stop as that would then just push you forward and into any object that you were trying to avoid. If I recall correctly, the WD had a fixed drawbar and the 8N did not. 8N had to use a drawbar fixed between the 3 PH arms which worked ok for pulling but would rise up when you stopped. I think they made a set of stabilizer arms the supposedly held the lift arms down, BUT if you accidently raised the 3 PH arms, the stabs got bent all to He77.
Both of these were really simple wiring and not much to replace the whole thing if needed. Just ignition switch and lights was about it. Around here most 8N tractors with new tires and new paint (not much else in the way of restoration but in good mechanical condition) go for not more than $2500. Not many AC tractors to be seen.

 

[Gary Fowler]

A FEL would be nice but not a necessity, my main trailer is an old flat bed I use for moving brush, timber and debris from the house I am remodeling. (old 1890s farmhouse -lots of plaster). I also have an old pickeup bed that someone made into a trailer and attached 9 feet of scaffolding to. This comes in handy when maneuvered close to the house. I used it to re-roof and I still need to finish siding and soffits etc. Thus something that can be moved close with some control would be helpful. A decent PTO would be nice for brush-hog etc.

For maneuvering trailers like this, a hitch mounted to the front of the tractor is great to use. When moving my boat trailer, I use my Kubota RTV900 that has hitches front and rear. The front one enables me to see where I am going with it while facing forward in the seat. I rarely put a trailer on the rear.

 

[bsamartini]

I have a old pickup bed trailer that someone welded scaffolding too. (It's pretty redneck but it works) It has about a 10 foot deck about 8 foot off the ground. It comes in really handy for fixing up the house. (Painting, cleaning gutters, etc.) the problem is it is pretty heavy and has no real stabilization other than some light jack stands that someone welded to the bottom I'm the trailer. Thus I usually keep it attached to my vehicle, and still drop the jack stands if I'm going to put a ladder on the platform. (For stability) when attached to the vehicle I can use my 13 foot ladder and get up high safely. I am going to be getting rid of the vehicle. (Critters destroying it). My little simplify garden tractor, although I'm sure it could pull the trailer, just seems to small for any real ballast, I could see it sliding around on wet grass etc, compared to a real truck or tractor. I like the idea of a front mounted hitch. I've seen bumper hitches on the 8n. Maybe I can have something made up to take a receiver style hitch. I also assume most tractors have "parking" brakes or at least a lock down tab for the peddles. How much roll would I have with a tractor set to park? (Solid? Or horse ****?) don't want the trailer moving when I'm up a ladder.