BX Steering issue

[Tdog]

Yesterday while mowing with my BX22 MMM, I took a short break. When I restarted & took off again, all seemed normal until I tried to turn. The steering wheel turned just fine but the wheels did not respond. Well, they did, but just barely. I started back to the barn to park & try to trouble shoot, moving very slowly. The steering wheel might go around 5+ times & the front wheels just barely moved. Using the little steering that I had, I got off to shut the gate. When I got back on, my steering was back, no problem. Go figger.

Anyone have this happen? Any idea what was/is wrong?

I got rained out yesterday anyway & finished today without any problem.

Thanks

 

[SPYDERLK]

Check your trans fluid level. If its ok your BX is probably in the latter stage of useful life of the piston seal in the steering cyl. Its an Oring and slowly wears down until fluid starts bypassing it at around 600 hrs. Cheap to replace but a bit of a hassle the 1st time as you learn how. If it happens again, move the steering wheel very quickly. That gets the oring to seal ... you can nurse it along for a while, but it gradually gets worse.

 

[Tdog]

Thanks Spyderlk. I'll check the fluid - - not going out this afternoon till rain stops.

I am a little past the 600 hours you mention. See attached photo.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Yeah, Im at 2200 on the BX1500. ... On the 3rd oring change tho. Your model may be later and have a better spec on cyl bore finish. ... Or maybe we do more steering movements in our usage. :confused3:

 

[xtruckerbob]

I think you problem is the Hydro cylinder has worn. Our first BX 2200 did a similar thing. It is a cheap fix. I took steer cylinder to a machine shop who "repacked" it for $65. No more problems till we traded for for BX2670 with loader

 

[Scooby074]

You werent holding down the 3pt lift lever by accident? Could have be causing the fluid to bypass. If it acts up again, check the cylinders.

 

[korydz]

I think xtruckerbob has it right. I had the same happen on my 2660, only it came about a little more slowly. Replace the seals in your steering cylinder will probably do it.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Check your trans fluid level. If its ok your BX is probably in the latter stage of useful life of the piston seal in the steering cyl. Its an Oring and slowly wears down until fluid starts bypassing it at around 600 hrs. Cheap to replace but a bit of a hassle the 1st time as you learn how. If it happens again, move the steering wheel very quickly. That gets the oring to seal ... you can nurse it along for a while, but it gradually gets worse.

I think xtruckerbob has it right. I had the same happen on my 2660, only it came about a little more slowly. Replace the seals in your steering cylinder will probably do it.

It is a single oring that causes it. The end/rod seals last a long time in comparison.

 

[Tdog]

Thanks all. Currently in the shop - - they said it was a simple fix, as you say. Will let you know. Pretty much nothing is a simple fix at the Kubota dealer.

 

[dz1966]

I have the same issue and hoping to fix it myself. I have the seal kit and taken the cylinder completely off my tractor. I cannot figure out how to take it apart to replace the seals. Could someone explain the best/easiest way to get it apart? Thanks

 

[SPYDERLK]

There is a groove on each end with an internal circlip. You only need to remove one end to replace the oring thats bad. ... Look for a small hole on the outside surface opposite the groove. Pushing a probe into this hole will help you displace the circlip so you can remove it.
larry

 

[john62]

I'm having the same issue on my BX2660. It's 6 years old with 240 hrs and gradually getting worse. Just went to dealer and ordered new cylinder. They said rebuild was only $10-15 cheaper. $300 for new cylinder plus labor. I will be installing myself.

 

[davesl708]

The fix is simple. Replace my o ring in my shop in a short time. Be sure and mark your ball joint settings or realign after the repair.
Lot cheaper than the shop if you have a little time.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I'm having the same issue on my BX2660. It's 6 years old with 240 hrs and gradually getting worse. Just went to dealer and ordered new cylinder. They said rebuild was only $10-15 cheaper. $300 for new cylinder plus labor. I will be installing myself.

Youve been taken advantage of.

 

[SPYDERLK]

The fix is simple. Replace my o ring in my shop in a short time. Be sure and mark your ball joint settings or realign after the repair.
Lot cheaper than the shop if you have a little time.

Yeah! ... A dollar for the oring and an hour of your time. On the BX1500 the ball joints just unscrew from the hyd rod ends, so re alignment is not an issue.

 

[john62]

How do you get the clip out? There isn't any hole on the outside. I have a picture but I can't get it to upload.

 

[SPYDERLK]

How do you get the clip out? There isn't any hole on the outside. I have a picture but I can't get it to upload.

,,, ... 2 possibilities; 1] There is a hole and its gooked up so you cant see it, or 2] Its been changed by Kub in some way.

The 1st time I changed mine I didnt notice the hole, but was able the get the clip out with 2 small screwdrivers. The wire clip/ring has a reverse bevel on each end. This presents a point that you can hook a screwdriver blade under and pry the tip of the ring up a little. But before you try you have to relieve the outward pressure against the ring by the parts it has retained all this time against the hyd pressure while in use. Find a tube that will fit close inside the ring and just give a smart tap with a 2# hammer. The rod guide and seal should move in enuf for you to see. Now remove the clip. Pry up the tip slightly and get the 2nd fine bladed screwdriver under the end of the ring and carefully pry it out. Be careful it doesnt have any opportunity to fly.

Tap the rod thru with a soft hammer from the other end til the central piston hits the inside of the unclipped end and drive it out. The oring is on the central piston. Reassemble in same orientation so mated worn parts are still adjacent. Itll be easier next time.
larry

 

[john62]

I talked to a kubota tech yesterday and he said the rebuilds usually don't hold up very long. Said it's best to replace the cylinder. I verified there is no hole on the outside. Since I ordered a new cylinder I will see if I can get this one apart based on your instructions. Thanks for the help.

Update: I got the clip off and drove the end seal loose. The seal will move about 1/4" since removing the retainer but won't come out. The opposite end is even with the cylinder. Does it need to be driven out further? I tried but didn't want to go overboard.

 

[Jj1479]

I talked to a kubota tech yesterday and he said the rebuilds usually don't hold up very long. Said it's best to replace the cylinder. I verified there is no hole on the outside. Since I ordered a new cylinder I will see if I can get this one apart based on your instructions. Thanks for the help.

Don't understand why they wouldn't hold up unless the ram is all scared up. Sounds like a ploy just to sell a new one. All of the cylinders that I have had redone never failed an was told they are better then new cause of better quality parts an seals used.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I talked to a kubota tech yesterday and he said the rebuilds usually don't hold up very long. Said it's best to replace the cylinder. I verified there is no hole on the outside. Since I ordered a new cylinder I will see if I can get this one apart based on your instructions. Thanks for the help.

Don't understand why they wouldn't hold up unless the ram is all scared up. Sounds like a ploy just to sell a new one. All of the cylinders that I have had redone never failed an was told they are better then new cause of better quality parts an seals used.

Yes. This dealer story speaks poorly of the attention paid and/or skill of their mechanic. It amounts to an excuse in advance for failure. I suspect that most premature follow on failures are due to scarring the ends or body of the rod, or to replacing all the seals provided in the "seal kit" even tho the end/rod seals are fine. These are more difficult to replace and damage could be done by inexperience with such things. -- The oring piston seal is what wears out way early. It is very easy to replace. Merely assuring that it is well lubed and can encounter no burrs or sharp edges as it re enters the cyl bore assures that its service life will be customary.

From the very 1st/ original ring the steering issue has begun showing after about 600 hrs of use, and nursed to ~ 700 before changing the oring. At 2100 I have changed several; the last at 2000. For the last change I used an oring from McMaster Carr, rather than from a cheap assortment. Maybe better? Well see.

The original end seals are fine.
larry