Grading BX22 level off yard

[bobbart]

I am looking to level off my yard its grassed but it is very uneven humps and such. I am tossed between rototilling it and then having to drag it with a rake or use a box blade and try to just pull down the highs and fill the lows. It would be alot cheaper to just buy a box blade.
My next question is will my BX22 handle a 5 foot box blade or do I need to go with a 4 foot? I am kind of hoping for the 5 foot, not because of the extra foot. That its available for store pickup for a little less than the 4 foot plus shipping since the stores do not stock them nor do ship to store for free.

 

[Tomtint]

Would it be easier to fill in the low spots. Instead of cutting the high spots ?

 

[bobbart]

I dont think, its pretty bad. I would have to get tons of topsoil and drag it around. lol

Thats why I am thinking that taking off the highs and filling lows with a box blade would be best and cheapest
1

 

[bcp]

I have a 4ft subcompact-sized blade, and never had a problem moving a full box. A standard Cat 1 box blade will hold a bit more. It would help if you told us the make and model blade you are looking at.

Box blades may differ in more than the width. If the 5ft blade is the same dimensions as the 4ft, except for width, you would be pulling only about 2 cubic feet more dirt.


Bruce

 

[diesel85]

Give me a tractor without a loader and just a box blade and I can make great things happen even with a small SCUT.

I did my whole poll barn driveway in 1 day with the box blade. I barely used the loader, only to pick up a couple things. But the box blade did 99% of the work.

You get someone experienced behind the wheel with a box blade, and they can make it more level than a moto-grader.

It's also the first ground engaging implement I recommend when anyone buys a tractor. You learn A LOT about the varying degree of angles the 3PT has, which will also help you use other implements more effectively.

 

[dougtrr2]

I think you may need to till and use a box blade. I think the the box blade may have a hard time with the sod. Even if it cuts if off it will tend to clump up and not spread out. I would go for tilling first and then box blade.

Doug in SW IA

 

[Tomtint]

I had a BX22 and a 5' blade as well as a 4' box blade. The 5' blade was to light to really do any cutting and the tractor itself had such a short wheel base, it made it difficult to grade with the 4' box blade.

 

[Diggin It]

This may be in a K forum asking about a particular model, but I have the same issue. Lots of uneven spots from various causes. Part of my place is mostly red rock gravel with a bit of dirt on top holding mostly weeds with a few bladed of grass. Plan (once the mud goes away) is to till. Problem is that will bring up a lot of fist sized rocks. That means raking but I don't have a landscape rake yet. At least I'll be able to use the resulting gravel in other places. Once I get the bigger rock off, I'll seed. In my case, dragging with a back blade would pull what little organic material and plant/grass roots away. I'd rather have weeds in this area than nothing at all. Can't afford to do the top soil thing.

 

[Tomtint]

It may be cheaper and faster to get someone with a skidsteer and a rock rake on the front to come in and smooth off the yard. I had one several years ago when I built our house and it was extremely fast..and we have a very large yard. You can easily do more than 1acre in about 1 hour..and it's pool table flat. With no leftover rocks to deal with.

 

[Ortimber]

A 5ft BB would "work" behind your tractor if the soil is loose. However, you may find that your tractor will get light in the front end or run out of traction when the BB fills with dirt. If it were me, I'd go with a 4ft.

 

[Ortimber]

Give me a tractor without a loader and just a box blade and I can make great things happen even with a small SCUT.

I did my whole poll barn driveway in 1 day with the box blade. I barely used the loader, only to pick up a couple things. But the box blade did 99% of the work.

You get someone experienced behind the wheel with a box blade, and they can make it more level than a moto-grader.

It's also the first ground engaging implement I recommend when anyone buys a tractor. You learn A LOT about the varying degree of angles the 3PT has, which will also help you use other implements more effectively.

That would be one heck of an operator!

 

[skipperbrown]

I think you may need to till and use a box blade. I think the the box blade may have a hard time with the sod. Even if it cuts if off it will tend to clump up and not spread out. I would go for tilling first and then box blade.

Doug in SW IA

It's going to be tough pulling up a full boxblade with undisturbed sodded soil unless you break it up first. I would till it and let the sod rot/dry out a week and then try to move the soil around. Better yet, kill the sod with weedkiller and then till when it is brown. I think you can pull a 5' box if you have some weight in the loader.

 

[Egon]

If you want a smooth area first till it well and then use about an eight foot drag ( square timber balk or similar home made device ) and drag from all directions. By changing length of chains on the drag you can angle it in either direction. Then till and drag again till you are satisfied with the job.

Something like this or variations for a drag. Shouldn’t cost much to build. Size it to tractor and add weight as required.
[video]https://goo.gl/images/EoA13y[/video]
Lots of different on google.

 

[Egon]

That would be one heck of an operator!

Probably even level the ice on a skating rink too.

 

[captronr]

I have a BX2200 and a 5 ft box blade. Our soil is heavy clay. The BX would pull the box blade pretty well, but with its short wheelbase, I was never able to get a smooth surface with the box blade. If you added gage wheels on the rear, that might help.

With what I've seen, a power rake (soil pulvertizer/rock rake/whatever you call it) on a skid steer can do more in an hour than a BX can do in 8 hrs. When it's done, you will have a perfect soil mix to plant in.

I have found it much easier to add dirt/top soil and back drag with the FEL to get a smooth surface.

With what you have now, I'd suggest killing the grass, then rototilling a couple of times, and maybe drag a bed spring/etc to level it out, then plant.

My two cents.
Ron

 

[bobbart]

Well I was out picking up other things from Tractor Supply with the trailer so I purchased the County Line 5' BB. I also picked up a post hole setup while the wallet was out.
I did some playing around with the BB on my neighbors packed messy driveway. It did a great job. I had it in 4x4 and had to use the axle lock a few times going up a grade but it did it. I agree that I will have to put some weight in the loader next time.
I was really looking into getting a tiller but **** they are pricey for something I will not use alot. However if I have to rent one to do this, I will buy it instead since its going to cost alot to rent one on a skidder. They do not rent 3ph versions

 

[Jaylegger]

You have two choices, remove the sod before you grade or remove the clumps of sod after you grade and then grade again. a land plane would be the ideal tool but a boxblade will get the job done but neither work well leveling if full of sod.

That said your tractor should handle a 5 foot boxblade ok with a little practice and a 4' land plane.

 

[diesel85]

That would be one heck of an operator!

I'm referring to my neighbor.

He's taught me a lot, but he's got the feather touch of perfection when it comes to toying with the control lever while you are going along.

He was brought up as a farmer and did some construction on the side.

Although he doesn't like my machine because I got the V treads versus his machine that has turf tires.

It's neat to watch... kind of like Bob Ross painting a landscape.