BX23 - Dented and leaking transmission

[Erik2005]

Hi everyone, I hate that this has to be my the subject of my first post.

I just found a dent/scratch which is seeping hydraulic fluid. It is located about two inches from the drain plug, smack dab in the middle of the transmission bottom. I obviously "rubbed up" on an immovable rock at some point.

And I only have 42 hours on her! Any ideas on a fix or price to fix? Under Warranty? Guess I'll be on the phone to the dealer Monday morning. Thanks for the tips and advise.

Erik

 

[kmdigital]

I assume the trans case is cast iron, in which case you hit something extreemly solid to dent and crack it. You can obviously replace it, at a very high cost in labor and material, or if it isn't too bad, something like JB Weld just might work if you drain the oil first and clean the area well.

It probably could also be welded, after draing the oil, which would be much less expensive then replacing it. Good luck.

 

[Tractor_Jim_CT]

A friend rushing down a rocky, bumpy road some how hit the oil pan of his van and noticed it was leaking after we returned from nine holes of golf on Martha Vineyard.

He cleaned the outside and used JB Weld. The goal was to avoid an expensive repair on the island and get it fixed on the main land.

It was either a year or two later, I asked what ever became of the repair. JB Weld held the leak and he never needed to take the repair any farther. I think he had the van for 3-4 years later before he sold it. So the other poster's suggestion is probably your best bet. Oh yeah, the repair was made on the exterior of the oil pan. Hope this helps

 

[Henro]

Erik2005,

Here is a thread that relates to your post. WALT reports on what it cost to have a crack in his BX transmission case fixed...

Bullet proof BX

Not cheap to replace a cracked housing! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[techman]

I believe the trans case is aluminium. can still be welded, but not as easily.

paul

 

[rbargeron]

It can be hard to get the area oil-free enough for epoxy like JB Weld to stick.

If the wound is only 2" from the drain hole, you MIGHT be able to drill a hole thru the crack - pack some grease into the flutes of the drill to grab the chips.

Then reach to put a short bolt & nut with flat plate or washer on the outside with a rubber pad to stop the leak. Use some thread sealant to make sure the bolt & nut don't get loose. You could get clever here and tape the nut to a bent piece of sheet metal so you can position it over the hole and turn the bolt into it.

There are also leak-stopping putty sticks that are oil and fuel resistant that may rub into the crack and stop it - if it is not too bad.

The pressure in there is near zero so the seal does not have to be too fancy to work acceptably.

Hope this helps. I think I'd almost rather fix it this way than replace the housing or let anybody weld on it - could make things worse or take all season. But that's just a wary old farmer talking. Seen too many would-be heros who weren't really.

Take care,
Dick B

As always prompt cheerful refund if suggestion is bogus /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[Erik2005]

Thanks for all of the replies. Over the last 24 hours it has lost aproximately 2 ounces. I'll have to jack it up and take a closer look to see if a creative fix is an option. Won't hurt to try, if the alternative is replacing it anyway. Scared to think what it might cost, as everything cost much more out here in Hawaii. I can say that at least it isn't in the pond!!!

 

[aloha]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( everything cost much more out here in Hawaii )</font>

If you need parts when the warranty is not available, TractorSmart.com is the way to go. Email or talk to Ronnie about shipping alternatives, especially whether the parts can be sent priorty mail.

 

[AntrimMan]

Erik,
here is a cheap and dirty repair that I used for years on a '69 camaro with a 2 gallon crease in the gas tank that leaked. I took a bar of regular ivory type soap and rubbed it into the leaky area. Stopped the leak dead, until it I drove in the rain, and then I just re-did the rub on. This was on a steel gas tank which doesn't get hot, I am unsure how the soap will resist the tranny temp.
This was only a repair, not a fix, so I did eventually take the tank out and solder over the leak.
If you drain the oil and clean the area then a good epoxy stick may work. You may have to tip the tractor up a ways and wait a while to keep the residual oil from migrating into the crack. I think if you can get it clean and dry then the fix is easy, or consider the alternative, oil is cheap.
Best of luck,
Martin

 

[Erik2005]

You want to hear something outrageous, I finally got a call back from the dealer with a quote. $400 for the part, hard to swallow but ok, and $3400 in labor, not ok. He said the mechanic said it would be a 40 hour job.

Told him I'll figure something else out. How can Kubota leave something so fragile and hard to replace, so exposed especially so close to the ground?