BX23 - Dented and leaking transmission
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Henro
Elite Member
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<font color="blue"> Equipman is right that without seeing the damage, we have no idea if it can just get welded and fixed. </font>
This certainly is true if repair of the cracked part was the question.
But the question referred to the cost of replacing the housing, not repairing it...so the answer should not be hard for anyone with experience on this particular job to come up with...
Just like changing a light bulb...more or less...well, certainly more...guess without experience someone would tend to fly by the seat of his pants and estimate high...
This certainly is true if repair of the cracked part was the question.
But the question referred to the cost of replacing the housing, not repairing it...so the answer should not be hard for anyone with experience on this particular job to come up with...
Just like changing a light bulb...more or less...well, certainly more...guess without experience someone would tend to fly by the seat of his pants and estimate high...
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Finally a picture of the crack. Think I'll try epoxying it this week. Thanks for all the tips. )</font>
In my experience, epoxy has a slim chance to work. The problems are that the surface and interior of the crack are oily, which will prevent the epoxy from adhering well. Also the thermal expansion usually loosens an epoxy patch.
I think that welding, or drilling and plugging are realistic options, but both require that the transaxle be partly or fully disassembled to avoid damage and/or contamination to the trans. A good mechanic with a shop manual could pull it off.
paul
In my experience, epoxy has a slim chance to work. The problems are that the surface and interior of the crack are oily, which will prevent the epoxy from adhering well. Also the thermal expansion usually loosens an epoxy patch.
I think that welding, or drilling and plugging are realistic options, but both require that the transaxle be partly or fully disassembled to avoid damage and/or contamination to the trans. A good mechanic with a shop manual could pull it off.
paul
rbargeron
Elite Member
Seeing your picture - here are a few points. It looks like the case is an aluminumn sand-casting - so welding is probably out - you'll just have more cracks.
The drain plug may be too small and too far away to use for access to hold a nut on the inside. But a toggle bolt might work (something like the tumble toggle). It would require draining the oil (if you use clean containers you could re-use the oil).
Before drilling the clearance hole it would be good to feel around with a wire thru the drain hole to make sure there is some open space directly over the dented spot.
When drilling the hole most of the chips will fall away - and some grease in the drill flutes will help control the rest. On the outside use a small plate with rubber washers to seal the dented area and the bolt. The bolt can be trimmed so it will not stick down as much as the drain plug does now so it shouldn't be vulnerable to damage. Good luck
The drain plug may be too small and too far away to use for access to hold a nut on the inside. But a toggle bolt might work (something like the tumble toggle). It would require draining the oil (if you use clean containers you could re-use the oil).
Before drilling the clearance hole it would be good to feel around with a wire thru the drain hole to make sure there is some open space directly over the dented spot.
When drilling the hole most of the chips will fall away - and some grease in the drill flutes will help control the rest. On the outside use a small plate with rubber washers to seal the dented area and the bolt. The bolt can be trimmed so it will not stick down as much as the drain plug does now so it shouldn't be vulnerable to damage. Good luck
guyrj33
Silver Member
Given the small size of the crack, can a hole be drilled and tapped and a "second" drain plug installed?
DUMBDOG
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Have you checked with your insurance company regarding them paying for the repair as you hit something and did damage to your tractor?
Never thought of asking the insurance company. If all else fails may try that route. Currently, I have the trans drained and the tractor's rear jacked up at an angle to promote draining the residual fluid away from the crack. I like the pounding of soft lead into the crack idea or maybe some other soft oil resistant material that will hold while I clean the area for epoxy. I think that i can definatly clean the area enough (down to bare metal) to get epoxy to hold, will add a small piece of aluminium sheet as a doubler for extra strength. Then go the skid plate route.
Sound reasonable?
Sound reasonable?
Junkman
Super Member
Have you considered a silicone glue repair? I know that there are some silicone glues that will hold to almost anything. The roofer used one type on my roof this winter to stop a leak until a permanent repair could be made. I tried to pull apart the two pieces of shingle and the only thing that happened is the shingle tore around the glue. The glued shingles wouldn't separate at all. This was applied in very low temperatures and held tight.
btolle
Platinum Member
If it were mine I would try the lead/JB Weld combinatin first. You really won't lost much by trying it, the worst that could happen is that it will start leaking or seeping in which case you just grind the JB Weld off.
I would use something rough on the area so the JB Weld will have some deep scratches to adhere to and then wash the area thoroughly (after filling the crack with lead) with lacquer thinner or carburetor cleaner to get all oil reside off before applying JB Weld. Even if you have ground the area down you have smeared some amount of oil around in the process and need to get it as clean as possible.
Good luck and please let us know how it works out.
Bill Tolle
I would use something rough on the area so the JB Weld will have some deep scratches to adhere to and then wash the area thoroughly (after filling the crack with lead) with lacquer thinner or carburetor cleaner to get all oil reside off before applying JB Weld. Even if you have ground the area down you have smeared some amount of oil around in the process and need to get it as clean as possible.
Good luck and please let us know how it works out.
Bill Tolle
